Holidays on Paros: A magic that lasts a lifetime

Sunbeams tickle my foot, which peeks out from under the sheets. I look sleepily through the open window on the hills of the Cycladic island of Paros. Suddenly something soft sweeps through my face and finally wakes me up: four full-haired Greeks in my room! The youngest of them wags at my bed and looks at me expectantly: "Ella, pame, let's go, get out of bed!" He seems to say. Our Paros dogs want to go to the garden.

With a cappuccino I sit down on the steps and watch their morning exploration under the olive trees. In the distance, a cock crows, goat bells ring to it. Palm leaves rustle, and a light breeze caresses my shoulders. A dreamy day begins.

I think about my first trip to Greece. It was in 1974 and the military dictatorship just overthrown. Zwischenhalt Athens: A black and white photo reminds us of our visit to the Acropolis. My grandmother walked proudly ahead, behind my mother in mini skirt, boots and sunglasses like a movie star. Somewhat scowling, I came and at the end of the goose march my younger brother Heiner. For our destination Paros, I was still little interested, as 13-year-old busy me completely different things. At that time I did not suspect that this Cycladic island would enchant me and shape my life.

In the picturesque harbor and fishing village Naoussa we rented an apartment. There were no more than a dozen tourists at the time, and nightlife took place here in the only tavern. The Greeks danced Sirtaki and Chasapiko, it was snapped, clapped and "Opah!" called. Spectators smashed plates on the ground to cheer on the dancers. And I caught my breath: As a Hamburg teenager, who used to chill Hanseatic, this sensuality, this devotion was fascinating.

Life had not touched me that way before. For my mother, born in 1933, the island offered the opportunity to live a belated hippie-like existence - far from the conventions of her parents and seemingly free from the burdens of the past. From now on, every summer we returned to Paros, which became my second home.

Unbelievable how busy one can be on vacation!

My phone is ringing. It's Irene, my girlfriend. "When do we meet in the harbor?", She wants to know. Every day we have invitations and new plans, it's unbelievable how busy you can be on vacation! Today we want to do a boat tour with our children on the "Michael Zeppos" around the island.

It's high time to wake up Magda, 18, and David, 16. The fourth generation, who visits this island, still sleeps blissfully in the pillows. My two teenagers are grumpy because I'm waking them up. The raging, joyfully wagging pack - all stray dogs, which we have included in our family through the local aid organization PAWS - can not change that at the moment.

But after all, we all sit in the car and drive to Naoussa. First stop at the bakery (buy chocolate croissant for the kids), short hello to the shopkeeper (whose owners used to run the first kafenion in town, where my brother and I played tirelessly backgammon and rice pudding and yogurt with honey), friends wave along the way, want to chat. Dimitris Triantafillos is already waiting for us at the harbor on his "Kaiki", a former fishing boat, which he has comfortably converted for island tours.

Shortly thereafter, Irene appears with her Australian husband Peter and the 15-year-old twins Zoe and Elina. Irene's parents came from Hamburg and Holland and were among the first foreigners to come to the island. They built a white, spacious summer house right on the sea in the 60s. One late evening, while the adults were drinking impressive quantities of retsina and engaging in life discussions, we took both girls to the beach. We had seen lights and were curious. There were four fishermen hunting octopods wading in the water. They greeted us and we followed them on their nightly tour along the coast. The lamps and the moon guided us, the sea was our confidant. I felt connected with nature, with this island and its inhabitants. And with Irene, who became a lifelong friend. Is it any wonder that a few years later I fell in love with a fisherman and my first friend was a Greek?

I sit at the bow and let the wind ruffle my hair.

Barely aboard, we leave. I sit at the bow and let the wind ruffle my hair. The high waves take us up, spray splashes refreshing in the face. Near Santa Maria, one of the many sandy beaches of Paros, we drop anchor. The children immediately jump from the boat into the turquoise water, I venture a little later a dive.Meanwhile, Dimitris dives and catches sea urchins, which are served with the other seafood and salads.

In addition there is water and a cool white wine (excellent Greek wines let forget the Retsina for a long time). Eating, swimming, talking, dozing: In the late afternoon we head home to Naoussa. The sun sinks and throws an orange-purple light on the place, the large Orthodox church in the middle of the scenery. This light of the Aegean! It is the most beautiful of this world for me.

After we moored at the harbor, we drink together a sundowner in our favorite bar "Kosmos", located in one of the pretty side streets. The teenagers roam the village - let's see what the scene has to offer today. My children are learning a completely different Paros than I know, modern and with all the benefits that tourism offers. I know the island from times when there was no electricity and no running water outside the village.

Paros offers me a haven of peace in my hectic author's everyday life.

For me as a city child it was elementary experiences to make light at night with candles and oil lamps and to wash myself with the water from the cistern. At that time we did not have a telephone. Our life here was reduced to the essentials. We often sat in the tavern in the afternoon, recited poems or sang together Leonard Cohen, Bob Dylan and Greek songs. A friend from Dublin taught me guitar handles and Irish ballads, the poets and writers inspired me with their words.

My mother built a house in the late 1970s, far from Naoussa. How forward-looking of her! Because in the 80s, tourism broke through the island. Suddenly many strangers flocked through the village during the summer. Instead of guitars, vocals or poems, there were now bars, countless new pubs and hotels in our idyll. Cars often displaced the donkeys and cell phones personal conversation. Since then, people rarely listen to Greek folk music, instead pop music pops through the streets at night.

My mother and Irene's parents have not lived for a long time; However, they have left us and our siblings with their homes full of memories and a social network that has spread through the generations. We were always looking for friendships and nature. To this day, none of us can escape the intensity of this island. Paros also offers me a haven of peace in my hectic author's everyday life.

The children come back from their village round. Soon they are ready to go to the nightclub at night, like Irene and I did. At that time, Irene was transported by her donkey, who patiently waited for her at the disco until she had danced herself out! But now we want to go home - at the beginning of 50 we are not as nocturnal as before. It takes until the bath bags are found and all are passed. My children walk the last part of the way on foot, I visit my neighbors on the way home, the family of Christos Zoumis - long-established farmers, whom I have known for a long time.

They greet me warmly and serve Greek coffee and dried figs covered in sesame seeds. I love this hospitality! Before I go, Maria, the wife of Christos, brings vegetables from her garden and adds another bottle of her own wine. "Kalinichta," she says, good night, and embraces me in goodbye. We end the day on the terrace, tired of wind and water. In the distance we hear the dogs of the farmers barking, crickets still singing fervently. Naoussa's lights twinkle at the bottom of the sea. No vacation without a visit to the "Alkioni - Aegean Wildlife Hospital" for injured birds and other animals. Director Marios Fournaris welcomes us at the entrance. "Today you are allowed to release three healed buzzards," he says smiling and leads us to the aviaries.

Excited, we take the shy wild birds gently, but firmly in our hands. They shake and twitch their wings, it's not easy to hold them. Carefully we carry her to the flamingo pond and stop. Marios almost whispers and begins to count: "One, two - three!" And we open our hands. The buzzards spread their big wings, rise as cinematic as the sky and float towards the mountains. That's how freedom feels. Here and now and the next few years on Paros, my island.

Paros - Tips and Favorite Addresses

Hotel Petres. Family-run, fully renovated hotel with very good facilities (swimming pool, tennis court) in a rural location and walking distance from the sea and Naoussa. The owners Clea and Sotiris celebrate Chatzinikolaki's 20th anniversary this year! DZ / F from 78 Euro (Tel. 00 30/228 40/524 67, www.petres.gr).

Taverna Thea. In a wonderful location right by the sea near Pounta, here you can find the spicy North-East Greek cuisine and first-class wines on white-laid tables. The landlord is an absolute music connoisseur, late at night a waltz can be heard (tel. 228 40/912 20).

Soso restaurant. In the old center of Naoussa, in a bougainvillea covered lane, lies this nice little eatery. Kalypso conjures delicious Mediterranean dishes in the tiny kitchen, served by her husband Petros, a native Pole (tel. 69/74 87 82 81).

KosmosBar. The island meeting point with the best drinks, in a beautiful location below the main church of Naoussa by the sea. Specialty: Mojito.

Boat trip. Enchanting day trip from Naoussa to Paros and Anti-Paros, with swimming breaks, delicious lunch with wine and soft drinks on board and sundowner on return. Charter price depending on group size from approx. 60 Euro / person (Dimitris Triantafillos, Tel. 69/47 81 71 25).

Alkioni - Aegean Wildlife Hospital. Flamingos, Black Vultures or Eleonora Falcons: In the bird clinic you can learn a lot about the unusual and rich wildlife in the Aegean Sea, work as a volunteer and become active as a sponsor (Kamares, Naoussa, Tel. 228 40/229 31).

Paros Animal Welfare Society PAWS. Last year, the animal welfare service of Paros provided 200 abandoned dogs and 50 cats, mostly to Germany. Financial and practical help is always welcome (contact: Barbara Bürki, Tripiti, Tel. 00 30/69/76 32 20 76). Nature trail. Dreamlike walks on landscaped nature trails over the hills, z. B. to the lighthouse or to various hidden beaches. Starting point is the monastery of Kolymbithres, reachable by boat from Naoussa or by car, for hikers also easily reached on foot (tel. 228 40/535 73).