Green cosmetics - with a new glamor
How did the green cosmetics come to Hollywood? Who are the new ecos? And: Can organic be glamorous? About the way the nature creams from wooden shelf to precious counter.
It's best to start with Susan West Kurz. That gently smiling herbaceous farmer from Massachusetts, the end of the 90s, the business of the German natural cosmetics company Dr. med. Hauschka led in America. After all, whoever wants to understand why green cosmetics are so booming and why self-proclaimed eco-muffle suddenly only want to let 100 percent nature to their skin, simply can not ignore the clever businesswoman.
It was at the time when organic foods were on the rise in the US. Organic supermarkets such as Whole Foods celebrated success everywhere, shaken up by food scandals, more and more people switched to organic products. Even green cosmetics were purchased, but their image was anything but glamorous despite all the organic enthusiasm. At the time, Susan West Kurz had only a small budget available for marketing her products. But fortunately also an actor friend with contacts to Hollywood. About him she smuggled the creams and make-ups from the Swabian Alb without further ado into the make-up case of the film make-up artists. That cost almost nothing, but the impact was enormous: As of 2000, the film? Erin Brockovich? came to the cinemas, fittingly an eco-thriller, knew after an interview with leading actress Julia Roberts suddenly all the world: The actress had been made with Dr. Hauschka make-up and since then a fan of the brand. Although she almost knotted her tongue when pronouncing the German name. Colleagues like Brad Pitt and Cate Blanchett retreated, the press reported. Within a few months Dr. Hauschka Hollywood conquered. And Bio on the skin was suddenly no longer bah, but chic. ? For some customers, the Hollywood factor was certainly important? Suspected today Christoph Spahn from market researcher Biovista, who has observed the natural cosmetics trend of recent years. Since the turn of the millennium, the industry is booming in Europe with annual growth rates of up to 20 percent? while the market for traditional cosmetics stagnates. For the first time, in 2007, at the international trade fair for organic products Biofach in Nuremberg, there was even an own natural cosmetics fair, Vivaness.
Sage, one of the many medicinal plants used for natural cosmetics
All the glamor would have used the organic creams little, if not even the products have improved enormously in recent years. Spahn, like many industry experts, is convinced of that. Where previously the emulsions of oil and water had to be mixed by hand and creams smoked rancid after two months, the general quality standard has arrived: shower gels smell thanks to sophisticated perfumery technology for wild berries, lotions fluffy loose from the tube, the durability corresponds to better raw materials almost the conventional cosmetics. The range has also been increased: anti-aging lines and sun sprays, oils for cellulite and creams for men, even lip gloss and self-tanner can be found today in the organic shelf. And the innovation machinery is booming: More than 15 percent of the products have not been on the market for more than a year.
Incidentally, it has also expanded explosively: health food shops and organic shops have long since ceased to be the only places where you can stock up on green beauty care. Most brands are now also available in drugstores, in the branches of Budnikowsky there are even own, prominently placed natural cosmetic corners. However, the natural brands always attract a lot of attention when they venture into a terrain that was as suspicious of the eco-boom in Hollywood as the use of chemical dyes in their products: the luxury market. Since 2005 he has been selling Hauschka his anthroposophical lotions and mascara most successfully in the noble Berlin KaDeWe? flanked by gems like Dior or Chanel. In the beginning, people were still smiling about the low prices of the eco competition, meanwhile no one is laughing anymore: Dr. Hauschka counters are already available in four other German cities, the products run like sliced bread. Santaverde also ventured in the fall from the organic shelf in the department store: in the Galeries Lafayette to Berlin. And since last year, Weleda and Tautropfen products can even be bought in elegantly designed flagship stores in the fashion capitals of Paris and Milan. Branches in Tokyo and New York are to follow. No wonder that even big companies, who previously had little to do with Bio, are now trying to get on the bandwagon.Last year, L? Oréal only bought The Bodyshop? Although not a true natural cosmetics manufacturer, but at least one with a green image? and then the French organic cosmetics company Sanoflore. The luxury group Yves Saint Laurent even had their own natural cosmetics line designed by eco-fashion designer Stella McCartney. From April it should be available in Germany.
The root extracts of the iris help the skin to regenerate itself.
Everything could be so wonderful - if not a question that all niche industries have to face, if they suddenly come into the spotlight of the mass market: Does the frenzy fit in with what we used to be? What do the gadgetry-resistant eco-buyers of the first hour say, who spoil themselves with untreated scrub less self than set a political statement, if not save the world? "For the time being, they are very pleased to respond to the bio-boom," said Peter Wippermann from Trendbüro Hamburg. "But they are confused too." No wonder: in contrast to 1977, the 2007 organic movement is hardly political anymore. Rather pragmatic. Who uses natural cosmetics today? By the way, especially women from the age of 30 and young families - primarily wants to do something good for themselves and their family: for example, to prevent allergies or to avoid certain ingredients that have been suspected of damaging health in recent years. If, by the way, the world can be saved for a bit, for example through fair trade in raw materials? all the better! "You just do not want to have any unpleasant side effects," says Wippermann. "It does not matter if it's allergies or guilt." And most important: "People want to look sexy."
Of course, the market researchers have long since missed the stylish organic fan of the 21st century with their own label: "Lohas" is the name of the new ecos. This stands for "Lifestyles of Health and Sustainability", ie for people who want to live health-consciously and sustainably and who also like to spend a little more money. The Hollywood Star squad belongs to the now increasingly environmentally friendly hybrid cars and organic toothpaste shoppt, but also the young family next door, who every week a box of vegetables from the farmers from the region in front of the door. In order to attract new clientele and at the same time not to scare off the old customers, most natural cosmetics manufacturers rely on a mixed assortment of eco-purism and organic chic. In addition to the intensive scented with vanilla-coconut or peach-apricot Bio-Spa series, for example, there is an almost odor-neutral baseline at Lavera. And dewdrops, in spite of sophisticated system care, still have the skin oils in their program, which company founder Rainer Plum once mixed with olive oil and herbs while on holiday in Tuscany. "We do not want to judge dogmatically," says Lavera spokeswoman Sabine Kästner, "we just offer."
Of course you will not save the world with it. However, they can change a bit by conscious shopping: If more and more customers are paying attention to what is actually in creams and make-ups and under what conditions it gets there, the companies will have to react to it. That's the power of consumers. Provided you can still see through the jungle of ingredients and production lines. Since 2001, the seal "Controlled Natural Cosmetics" of the BDIH (Federal Association of German Industrial and Trade Companies for Pharmaceuticals, Health Food, Dietary Supplements and Personal Care) has been helping. The stamp is only available if a catalog of strict test criteria is met, so for example actually no silicones or synthetic fragrances are used. This is intended to differentiate itself from brands such as Aveda or The Bodyshop, which, although some of their products are based on natural substances, but do not dispense with chemicals as consistently as Weleda, Dr. med. Hauschka or dew drops. With the support of ex-consumer minister Renate Künast, efforts are currently being made to create an EU-wide label similar to the organic certificate for food. And the very optimistic even hope that not only the proportion of nature, but also the proportion of ingredients from certified organic cultivation will be specified. That is so far only extremely vague prescribed. Reverie, smile because the realists. Why not, the optimists counter. And who knows, maybe they're right: Who would have thought ten years ago that Julia Roberts would meet Dr. Hauschka makes up?
Without seal no nature
The BDIH seal and the ECOCERT label are currently the most important certificates for natural cosmetics.
BDIH Controlled Natural Cosmetics: the most widespread natural cosmetics seal in Germany, which is currently found on around 2800 products. It prohibits u. a. organic-synthetic dyes, silicones and petroleum products. The raw materials may no longer have been tested in animal experiments after 1998 and should come as far as possible from certified organic farming. Guidelines and manufacturer list below
www.kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de.
Ecocert: Seal of the independent environmental control organization Ecocert, which also checks cosmetics since 2002 and has currently certified about 600 products. There are two types of seal: In "natural cosmetics" must be at least 95 percent of the ingredients of natural origin and at least 50 percent of the plant materials derived from organic farming. "Organic natural cosmetics" also means 95 percent of nature and an organic content of plant substances of 95 percent. Otherwise similar to BDIH seal.
Green beauty helper
With birch for cellulite A shower scrub with beeswax beads complements the birch series from Weleda. It should stimulate the microcirculation and prepare for the cellulite oil. 150 ml for about 7.45 euros.
Cassis for more moisture In winter, the skin needs extra care. Blackcurrant seed oil (Cassis) is said to strengthen skin protection in the "Osmanthus Cassis" moisturizing fluid from Primavera. 50 ml about 19.90 euros.
Nostalgic birthday box Dr. Hauschka turns 40. And celebrates the anniversary with a new edition of three classics in the design of 1967: facial tonic, rose and face wash cream. 30 ml each set about 29.90 euros.
Hold for the hair At the eco-fair Vivaness Lavera brings three products on the market, which promise hold and volume through travel extracts: "Styling hair gel" (100 ml about 6.95 euros), "volume and shine hair spray" (150 ml for about 7, 95 euros) and the "volume shine and mousse" (150 ml for about 7.95 euros).
Natural tan The "Soleil Sensitive Moisturizing Cream" by Santé brings the holiday with a self-tanner very gently in the face. 40 ml about 8,90 Euro. Cranberry scrub The fruity scent of the US berry is now by Anne Lind as a refreshing shower scrub. 150 ml for about 6,50 Euro.
Cranberry scrub The fruity scent of the US berry is now available from Anne Lind as a refreshing shower scrub.150ml for around € 6.50
Pure nature or politically correct?
Two eco-icons of the beauty industry and their idea of green cosmetics.
Stella McCartney, designer and animal rights activist, who has just created the natural cosmetics line "Care": "Only 100 percent nature is environmentally friendly".
Personally, I want to know exactly what I eat or what my skin comes into contact with. Especially when you consider that our skin stores up to 60 percent of what we apply to it? and they are quite often substances that are not necessary. Silicone is included in many creams to soften it. But otherwise it has no positive effect. That's why I did not use my natural cosmetics line. It really contains 100 percent nature and is also certified by Ecocert. This is the international variant of the BDIH seal, which, in addition to the ingredients, also checks the development process for environmental compatibility. I wanted to prove with the line that you can create a sexy and luxurious skin care without having to compromise on your own philosophy of life or environmental protection. If, on the other hand, products are made only of natural substances, but convey their name, being environmentally friendly and therefore good for the body, I find that half-hearted.
Anita Roddick, founder of The Bodyshop and environmental activist: "Organic alone is not enough".
Chemical ingredients are not the real problem. After all, they are also made from natural substances. Other criteria are more important: Those who want to produce ecologically and ethically clean cosmetics, for example, should pay attention to use as few substances from the oil industry, such as Vaseline. Because oil is a scarce resource. Even on animal experiments in the raw material testing should be waived. Another issue is intellectual property law. Many cosmetic companies use the knowledge of primitive peoples in drug discovery. However, these people are not involved in the profits. That needs to change. There should also be something to do with packaging: if you throw away a container today, it often takes five years for it to rot. But there are packaging, such as corn, which disappeared after only five months. However, the biggest taboo is the production conditions. It is quite possible that the ingredients are organic, but perhaps the product was made by people who toil for a mini son! Of course I'm thrilled that bio is booming now, but organic alone is not the answer. You have to check the companies carefully. Only then do you have the label? Green? really earned.
