travel
May 6, 2024

Bike tour through Canada: The best tour

That's pretty much first, What I eat is ice wine. I would not have expected that now either. But if you can do it, it's ok at noon. I did not know that Canada is the largest producer of ice wine in the world, not far from Toronto is one of the most famous growing areas. I take another sip at the tasting at the winery "Inniskillin". Can not hurt, before it goes straight to the bike and on to the famous Niagara Falls.

The route is at ground level, the landscape is a bit reminiscent of Holland, the wide bike path also. Cycling is fun! We pass by the chic houses on the banks of the Niagara River, on the opposite shore of which the United States begins. The place itself Niagara looks like the little brother of Disneyland. To the huge waterfalls, an entertainment industry has grouped, which is rather getting used to. But a dinner with a view of the noisy, foaming masses that roll down from 57 meters height, you have not every day.

Nature From 57 meters, the Niagara Falls thunder down

Cycling in Toronto? Runs great!

Inge, owner of the tour company that organizes the bike ride, José, her Canadian contact, ChroniquesDuVasteMonde photographer Alex Trebus and I launch: We're going to test this trip, which is new to the program, as a kind of reconnaissance crew. After our little trip to Niagara Disney Land, we are excited about a real city: Toronto, metropolis of the province of Ontario. Terence, our guide, was already a teacher and business consultant before joining the bike business two years ago. Cycling is a big thing in Canada, and even in cities it's totally enjoyable - unlike in Germany, motorists take a lot of consideration here.

Our first stop is Kensington Market, Toronto's Kreuzberg. This is where the alternative scene meets yuppies and tourists of all kinds. The place is buzzing and teeming - and a manageable Victorian, but rather decrepit townhouse on a quiet side street would be worth $ 1.7 million, Terence tells us.

Farbrausch In Toronto, Graffiti Alley gets pretty colorful

We prefer to buy a pasta dish for 7 dollars at "Rasta Pasta", a fun fusion snack with Caribbean-Italian cuisine. Then we cruise on through the streets, past cool-looking shops, where I want Shoppomanin immediately, but I pull myself together. At crucial spots, there is information from Terence, who wants to know something in between, just call. A very pleasant way to get to know the city. Our tour ends in the Distillery District. Without alcohol, but with the great chocolates from the chocolate shop "Soma".

City, countryside, river - something for everyone

The next day, in summer resort Gananoque, Toronto is light-years away. Gananoque - the name comes from the Indian - is a haunted place right on the St. Lawrence River. In the summer hotspot for yacht owners, in the off season pretty quiet.

As the others wander around, I secure one of the deckchairs on the jetty by the water and enjoy not only the sun's rays, but also the incredible calm that these deep Canadian waters radiate. That's the beauty of our tour: the change of wild nature and urban bustle, of wide country and bustling streets.

After all, there are three other cities in the program: Montreal, Ottawa and Quebecwhere we - very particularly - sleep in a monastery hotel and can listen to the nuns still living there with their songs. In order to see as much as possible and not to despair at the several 100-mile distances, in between distances are repeatedly driven by shuttle bus.

Ottawa is quiet, gentle and spacious

In Ottawa, Canada's capital By the way, we meet the next bike crazy: Maria. She is Iranian, lived in Germany and the US, moved to Canada in 2011 to do something that is completely banned in Iran for women: cycling.

comical The spider sculpture in front of Ottawa's Kunsthalle

Maria now has a business similar to Terence, and escorts us through the student city, which is so unlike Toronto. Quieter, gentler, sprawling. But also a cycling paradise.

We eat a "Beavertail" at Byward Market, the famous sweet lard that, flat and elongated, reminiscent of a Biberkelle admire the bizarre spider sculpture of Louis Bourgeois at the entrance of the Kunsthalle, drive along the Rideau Canal and along the wild Ottawa River. Visiting a city by bike has some advantages: you can see a lot in a short time and can decide where to look again the next day.

Val-David - the Worpswede of Canada

One of the places that I particularly love when traveling is Val-David. A rather sprawling little village in the province of Quebec, 80 kilometers north of Montreal, where many creatives and alternatives have come together. Val-David is the Worpswede of Canada. In the "Magasin Général", the meeting point on the main street, there are Moroccan dishes, brightly colored flamingo floor mats and vegan snacks. A few meters away, one of Canada's most famous tin artisans, Bernard Chaudron, has his shop, opposite is a glassblowing shop, and for a chat or sundowner, one meets on the wooden terrace of the quaint brasserie "Le Baril Roulant". No wonder there is always traffic jam on the weekends on the way to and from Montreal.

Bird, no beaver-watching

Pretty much at the end of our trip, there is a promise of real beaver instead of fried beavertails. The chance to see one is at least quite big, José promises on the way to Lac Blanc. The small lake is very idyllic between Montreal and Quebec.

Our hotel "Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc" reminds a bit of the "Dirty Dancing" Kellerman's Resort, which is not for nothing in the original "Mountain Lake"? called. There is forest around here and nothing else around. But: a few Deckchairs on the lakeshore, of course, of which I'm a safe.

Then Pierre picks us up. He is one of 600 trappers in the Quebec area, responsible for forestry and animals. Pierre gives the impression of knowing each and every beaver that romps near Lac Blanc by name, and it's a lot of fun listening to him. We get into a canoe and paddle on his command over the mirror-smooth blue, along the water lilies and water lilies. The sun is shining, no breeze is blowing. It is incredibly quiet and as Archaic-Canadian as I imagined.

Boat instead of bike With the canoe on beaver search

There are trapper stories around the campfire

Then Pierre suddenly stands wide-legged and ankle-deep in the water on a beaver dam and tells us how the animals manage to flood the entire area with the help of their elaborate structures. And how he already blasted dams with dynamite, because there was no other way. So maybe none of the guys shows up? Even the bears seem to pursue other hobbies, but that's just nature.

The wonderful outdoor day we end later at dinner by the campfire, while Pierre tells us a few more trapper stories. Back in the "Kellerman's Resort", which of course is not that, I go again to the black, quiet lake. Tomorrow we drive to Montreal, I've heard a lot about it and I'm very curious. But first I breathe deeply and soak up a good deal of Canadian wilderness.

Nikolas travel tips for Canada

THE TOUR

The four-day guided tour "Feast of Colors in Eastern Canada" will be held on four dates in September 2019: 4095 euros (excluding flights) including 13 nights in a double room, 13 dinners (usually three-course), bike rental with at least 8 courses, bicycle bags , all entrance fees, all transfers and shuttles, luggage transport, drinking water during the tours as well as good, local guides, who mostly speak German (or are translated) and a constant tour guide. The routes are flat to slightly hilly, wind-protected and well-developed, usually you cycle between 20 and 30 kilometers a day - once it is 65. To book on "The Landpartie" (Am Schulgraben, 26135 Oldenburg, Tel. 04 41 / 57 06 8310, www.dielandpartie.de).

STAY

The hotels (and most restaurants) are prebooked and all lovingly selected. But here are my personal highlights:

Auberge du vieux foyer. Cozy country hotel in Val-David / Quebec province with pool and sun terrace, spa and fireplace room. Double room from 74 Euro (3167, 1st rank Doncaster, Val-David, Tel. 819/322 26 86, www.aubergeduvieuxfoyer.com).

La Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc. Nice resort in the US country style. Lots of wood, large terrace, beach, right on the lake, you can also rent individual chalets, all with lake view. Double from 128 Euro (1000, Domaine Pellerin Saint-Alexis-des-Monts, Quebec, Tel. 819/265 42 42, www.pourvoirielacblanc.com/frca).

Le Monastere des Augustines. In Quebec, old monastery walls meet modern architecture: atmospheric very special! Every day nuns singing in the monastery church. There are really simple rooms, reminiscent of the former nun cells, and something more luxurious. At breakfast is contemplative silence. DZ / F from 96 Euro (77, Rue des Remparts, Quebec, Tel. 418/69 41 639, www.monastere.ca).

ENJOY

Le Baril Roulant. Quaint brasserie in Val-David, wooden deck overlooking the river, rugged benches - where you can meet a wine or Canada's favorite fast-food "poutines" - fries with pieces of cheese and gravy (1430 Rue de l'Acade? Mie, Val-David, tel 819/322 22 80, www.barilroulant.com).

La Stazione. The small bistro is located on the bike route between Labelle and Val-David and is a real insider tip.The cooking is French-Italian, inside it is wonderfully close and comfortable, in the sun you sit on the terrace (1830 Rue Principale, Saint-Faustin-LacCarre ?, Tel. 819/688 58 17).

Winery Inniskillin. Generously located near the small town of Niagara-on-the-Lake - and famous for its really great ice wine. The winery is open for tastings and sales daily from 10am (1499 Niagara Parkway, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Tel. 905/468 21 87, www.inniskillin.com).

GOOD TO KNOW

The weather in Canada can change quickly, and once the sun is off, it gets chilly. So always have a jacket and a thin cap. Even a pair of sunglasses should come with you - it's actually brighter than ours.

SELECTION CANADA: 001