Beautiful foam stories from the beauty world
They exist, these subtle differences. Foam is not the same foam. It all starts with the cappuccino: it does not taste like a milk crown, which melts sadly. With creamy hood, which can be spooned like a dessert, but very much. Another example, in the bathtub: If the foam first grows to the mountains and then dissolves quickly in the air, it is a disappointment - a charmless, because it leaves us so completely without in the clear water. A cloudy ceiling, on the other hand, simply feels heavenly.
Good foam makes you in a good mood. But he is a science in itself. In the truest sense of the word: There are researchers who have been dealing with the fine air bubbles for many years and are busy fiddling about how to make their consistency softer, silky, heavier or lighter. For a shampoo needs a different foam than a bath additive or a facial cleanser. And often the foam is the reason why we like a product - even if we do not even realize that. "Foam is a very sensual thing, we put it directly on the skin, so it has to feel nice," confirms Professor Howard Hutton, foam and surfactant expert for hair care products at Procter & Gamble (including Pantene and Wella).
And what exactly is foam? A chemical work of art, countless air bubbles, consisting of a wall of water and surfactants. These surfactants are molecular entities with two ends that behave differently: one end is hydrophilic, which means that it wants to combine with water; the other end is hydrophobic, so it wants to repel water. Because of this contrast, the surfactant surfaces expand in both directions, trapping the air. From these bubbles, the foam is composed. And how soft, airy, rich or economical it is depends on the type and concentration of surfactants.
Surfactants are still reputed to dry or even irritate the skin, "says Howard Hutton." In the past, in soaps, for example, they were actually very aggressive. But today we work with mild, skin-friendly surfactant types. "And even care products for extremely sensitive or particularly dry skin today produce gentle foam without irritating the skin.
Researchers are very specific about how a product needs to foam before we use it. By and large, they distinguish between two directions:
1. The light, airy foam in the shampoo or shower gel, which stands for cleanliness and freshness. The lighter and luscious, the better the hair washing or showering feels.
2. The dense, creamy version stands for care and protection.
© Keith SchofieldWe like it in the gentle shower cream for sensitive skin or in the shampoo for dry, damaged hair. The softer and finer the foam, the gentler and nourishing the product. "Foam is a signal, it tells us what we can expect from care," says Howard Hutton, summing up that feeling. "If the cleansing gel foams little or no skin for blemished skin, but is instead heavy on the skin, we have the impression that it is not thorough." And vice versa: foams the shower milk for dry skin like crazy, we think, it is not mild enough. Although, theoretically speaking, the foam does not necessarily dictate the effect of a product. For the consumer, foam is in the first Lionie sheer feeling thing. And after this feeling, the cosmetics developers are directed.
The finer the foam, the more nourishing the product
Of course, foam also has a function. Gentle surfactants have a fat-dissolving and cleansing effect. Together with moisturizing and nourishing ingredients, they are not a burden on healthy skin. Immediate foam from the pump dispenser is becoming increasingly popular for facial cleansing: tender mousse ends up in the hand when pressed, can be spread across the face and easily rinsed off with warm water (eg "Aqua Effect Refreshing Cleansing Mousse" by Nivea or "Gentle Cleansing Foam "with rose water from Melvita).
However, foam can transport much more, for example, moisture-binding agents such as urea, glycerol or hyaluronic acid. Some manufacturers have therefore developed care foam, which is distributed instead of milk or lotion on the skin. It is particularly suitable for hands or feet, because the texture quickly absorbs and leaves no greasy film (eg "Skincair Pomegranate Foam Cream" for the body of Allpresan, "Beauty Xpress Hand Foam" by Dr. Grandel or "Ictyane Foam Cream "for extremely dry skin from Ducray, in pharmacies).And a cleansing / shaving foam hybrid for the intimate area, enriched with lactic acid to protect the skin ("Sensitive foam with calendula & lactic acid" from CD).
But in the end, creamy sparkling foam is just fun. It spreads smoothly on the skin, feels wonderful in the bathtub and often also spreads soothing aromas (eg "foam worlds forest magic" with eucalyptus fragrance from Tetesept). Therefore, some manufacturers have now also developed shower foam (eg "Happy Buddha Organic Mandarin & Yuzu Shower Foam" by Rituals or "Seathalasso Shower Foam" by Douglas Beauty System). The comes close and fine at the touch of a button from the dispenser and reminds us that it is high time after a morning shower for a really good cappuccino - with fine creamy, well what?
