Holidays on the doorstep

No five minutes we are to brush our teeth in the bathroom. As we come out, black clouds darken the sky. Trees are bending in the storm, people rushing over the campsite. From the cover of the mountains the thunderstorm falls over us. Lightning crackles, thunder echoes across the lake. Through fat drops we run to the camper and pull the door behind us. Janosch, almost two, is very quiet and clings to his mother like a monkey baby. Emma, ​​five and a half, cries in fear.

"In the motorhome we are safe," I say and explain to her the matter with the electric wire and the closed shell. But do not convince her. She wants to go home, she whimpers, to Regensburg. It would not be far: 170 kilometers as the crow flies. We are on vacation, for the first time.

The Walchensee glistens like a fjord

Usually we spend our holidays by the sea - in a beach hut in Turkey, a bungalow in Greece, a holiday home in Denmark. But this time we only have six days left. Too short to fly or drive far. So what is closer than a holiday in Bavaria? There is no sea, but lots of lakes. And with the camper you get very close to the water. In addition, there is still mid-August bomb weather. At least most.

The day before, for example. Emma and I had risen very quietly, not so easy in a camper. Put 35 colorful candles in a cake and woke my wife Susanne: "Today it can rain, storm or snow ..." It does not. Instead, the rising sun broke through the spruce trees and made the bewitchingly clear green of Lake Walchen glitter.

On the narrow, surrounded by mountains arm of water, where the campsite is located, the lake looks like a Norwegian fjord. And feels that way too: Because he is so deep, almost 200 feet, he rarely gets warmer than 19 degrees in the summer - which did not stop Emma from paddling in her swim ring until her lips turned blue.

Living in a vehicle? Has something!

Well, the morning after the storm, I tip the window over the bed and look out. It is cool and uncomfortable, clouds are hanging in the mountains. Janosch, monothematically interested, gets up at the window. "There, car, there too! There too!" Sleeping in a car and just after waking up, standing in bed, seeing other vehicles - for him, this holiday is like made.

Emma points to the caravan next to us, with a kitchenette and TV in the tent, and asks: "Are they moved in?" It is the first time she is camping. And I really can not explain that to her either: why you buy a caravan and then stay in the same place for three weeks every year.

Almost 200 meters deep, the Walchensee rarely gets warmer than 19 degrees. The "Klösterl" on the shore has been a youth hostel since 1979

© Bernhard Huber / ChroniquesDuVasteMonde

We are already moving on, at least for the day. It is raining, because it gets crowded in the camper. The woman in the tourist information presses me the prospectus of a spa in the hand, the "crystal trimini" at the nearby Kochelsee.

Our motorhome, weighing three and a half tons, screws the serpentines through a forest of fir trees with astonishing ease. An oncoming motorcyclist leans into the curve that the knee pads strike sparks. Janosch, who is watching closely, throws himself back and forth in his child seat, "brrrmmm, brrrrrmmmm".

Sauna with a view of the Kochelsee

In the entrance hall of the thermal baths we feel as if we were checking into a five-star hotel: marble tiles, stucco ceiling, huge crystal chandeliers. Children are only allowed on Sundays and Wednesdays in the sauna and spa area, so Susanne and I change. The coronation is a panorama sauna with a view over the Kochelsee: 300 people have space in it - but only three are there except me.

Back in the bathing area, Janosch, who touched the Walchensee only with his toes, quickly gets up to temperature. Slips, forwards, backwards, falls, swallows water, cries, never mind, again!

Jump from the edge of the pool, so often, until he can no longer stand and fall asleep with half a croissant in my mouth on my arm. From a couch in the rest zone, I see a gray curtain sliding over the Kochelsee. And then daddies swim in swimsuits through the pouring rain of their children, the wind shakes the palm trees. I spread my toes and enjoy the tropical heat, then sleep lies over me.

Our next destination: the Chiemsee

The next morning we leave from our campsite at Walchensee heading east, the road leads along the south shore. The Chiemsee, our next destination, may be the largest lake in Bavaria, the Starnberger See the noblest - but the Walchensee is the most beautiful: white beaches and turquoise blue water pass by outside.

"As in the Caribbean," says Susanne.

Only when the road clears the shore do geranium balconies bring us back to the Upper Bavarian reality. Lush green meadows to the edge of the forest, beautiful clouds are towering over the mountains. The idyll looks so strangely perfect as if we were traveling through the landscape of a model railway. And again and again, there is a cow in the pasture in exactly the right place.

"There, Janosch!" Cries Emma, ​​pointing out of the window at an ox with protruding horns. Susanne and her have decided to dissuade him from his vehicles and to inspire animals. A certain interest for the sheep, horses and goats out there is not to deny him - as long as no tractor jerks into the picture: "Takktooor!"

Through Bavaria with the camper: freedom and nature

The campsite Seehäusl is located at the end of all roads and is still fully booked to the last lawn. Motorhomes and cars are huddling close together, down to a narrow stone beach on the reeds. Marina, the owner, helps us with parking. Centimeter work, shuffle on the coaster, preferably fast: the next wait behind us. But Marina is as open and welcoming as if we were old friends.

For Janosch it's love at first sight: She drives a golf cart. She takes our son, to the reception, to the woodpile, back to our place. When I finally lift him out of the car, he screams and trembles with rage.

Later, as dusk settles over the lake, the silhouette of the Chiemgau Alps blurs in a dark blue and most of the other children are already in the bedtime stories, ours are hungry. We take a table under an old linden tree on the terrace of the campsite restaurant. The tapas are called "Happas", and I fear the worst. But when the marinated mozzarella balls, baked olives and grilled goat's cheese are served with fresh figs and chili-choco-rasps, we fall over it as if we had not eaten for days.

Mom drives it to the mountains

The next morning I wake up first and pick up the ordered croissants at the reception, they are still warm. When I want to drink the first sip of coffee, Emma gets out of the motor home and says that I could drink the coffee just as well on the pedal boat.

How right she is! Leisurely we splash over the water, a shred cloud looks like an eagle, which lies on the back. I think we could let it pass all day long. But Susanne drives it into the mountains, on the Kampenwand, whose jagged summit chain juts out of the mountains on the other side.

Climbers love the rocky peaks of the Kampenwand, but the mountain is also ideal for families - a gondola leads almost to the top

© Bernhard Huber / ChroniquesDuVasteMonde

Cold gusts hit us at the mountain station. We look up at the fragile row of green spotted limestone rocks above which paragliders glide like little colorful dots in the sky. The hike takes an hour to reach the cross on the eastern summit. Emma can do it, Susanne said. Now she begins to tremble herself, it is looser ten degrees colder than at the valley station, where our jackets are in the camper. We still walk the 100 steps to the Sonnenalm and enjoy the view over plum cake with cream.

Slowly I understand the people who leave their caravan

In the evening, I shunt back to our pitch on the Seehäusl, back and forth, back and forth, and when I finally pull the key, the room begins again: Unbuck child seats, headrests out, table to the side, fold down the bed, pajamas from the Klamottenbergen Rummage trunk and so on. Slowly I understand the people who leave their caravan in the same place for three weeks. We decide to stay here the last two days.

Wonderfully carefree days: Emma laughs awry, because even after 50 steps the water reaches her only to the waist; the Chiemsee, five, six degrees warmer than the Walchensee, has something of a children's pool. Dry again, she climbs a climbing tree, which curves on the shore. Four of us are lying on our jaw, our heads over the water, a net in our hands. Janosch shares his bread with the ducks. He likes them, the animals - at least as long as Marina does not tinker with her golf cart around the corner.

Vacation in the motorhome: The children are looking forward to the next time

Would you ask Janosch: anytime again! Even Emma does not want to go home for a long time. Susanne might go hiking a little more often next time. I like laziness. Now that we do not have to clear and shuffle so much, I start to recover. Sometimes I almost forget how close we are to home.

The last day is calm and warm, the Chiemsee lies there like silver-blue silk. With a stand-up paddle board, I slide out a bit. A tour boat sends waves across the water. I lie down on the board and close my eyes. Gently I rock on the waves, gulls scream, the sun sizzles the drops from my stomach. You do not have to go to the Aegean Sea to feel like you're at the sea.

Tips for RV holidays in Upper Bavaria

camper

At the motorway exit Sulzemoos, 30 kilometers northwest of Munich, there are two landlords. The industry giant "The Free State" and the smaller, sympathetic "Steiner". A semi-integrated vehicle for four people is available in the high season from 149 Euro / day, in the off-season it is much cheaper ("The Free State - Caravaning & More, Sulzemoos, Ohmstraße 8-22, Tel. 081 35/93 71 00, www .freistaat-rent.de; "Leisure & Caravanpro Steiner", Sulzemoos, Hauptstraße 1, Tel. 081 35/99 46 60, www.freizeit-steiner.de).

Stay

Camping Walchensee. Super location directly on the shore with many water places and beautiful stone beach. Self-service kiosk and row boat rental. Pitch in the 1st row. 2 adults and 2 children from 29 Euro (Walchensee, Lobisau, Tel. 088 58/92 91 68, www.camping-walchensee.de).

Camping Seehäusl. One of the oldest campsites in Germany. Quiet location with top sanitary facilities and SUP rental. Parking space from 24,50 Euro (Chieming, Beim Seehäusl 1, Tel. 086 64/303, www.camping-seehaeusl.de).

Enjoy

Gasthof Edeltraut. Ten minutes walk from the camp Walchensee. From the large terrace we looked over the water and ate the freshly caught, fried yolks with potatoes and salad (14 euros). For dessert we went in swimming trunks on the water - to the restaurant is a pedal boat rental with ice cream (Walchensee, Seestr. 90, Tel. 088 58/262, www.gasthof-edeltraut.de).

Ristorante La Pineta. Small, comfortable Italian with friendly service, delicious antipasti (medium sized portion 10.50 euros) and, for the kids, delicious "pizza salami" (6.50 euros). Very popular, so book a table! (Kochel am See, Mittenwalder Str. 11, Tel. 088 51/611 16, www.la-pineta.eu).

Tavern to the Hirschauer bay. Freshly caught fish in the beer garden, for example fried char fillet with saffron sauce and vegetables on ribbon noodles (about 17 euros). A few steps further, on Lake Chiemsee, you can look through a fixed binoculars on the bird sanctuary - in addition to cranes and egrets discovered with a little luck even flamingos (Grabenstätt, Hirschauer Bay 1, Tel 086 61/528, www.hirschauer-bucht.de ).

Chiemgauhof. In the restaurant garden on the shores of the Chiemsee, in the shadow of old oak trees, the waiter urgently recommended the house specialty: blueberry pancakes with vanilla ice cream (9 euros). We are grateful to him to this day. The restaurant includes a walkway and cozy lounge furniture by the water. Incidentally, you can also spend the night, double / F from 120 euros (overseas, Julius Exter Promenade 21, Tel 086 42/898 70, www.chiemgauhof.com).

Kaiserschmarrn stands in Bavaria on almost every tavern card

© Bernhard Huber / ChroniquesDuVasteMonde

to bathe

Therme Kristall trimini. Reopened in the spring of 2017 after almost two years of renovation, the makers call it the "most beautiful spa in Europe" - and? We do not know any more beautiful. Children are only allowed on Wednesdays and Sundays in the sauna and spa area. Admission for 4 hours 29,50 Euro, children

(6-15 years) 22 Euro, under 6 years 7,50 Euro (Kochel am See, Seeweg 2, www.kristall-trimini.de).

Prienavera water park. On the waterfront, with an unobstructed view of Herrenchiemsee Castle. A water paradise for children, with lido, adventure and wellness pool, tube slide and lazy river. Admission for 4 hours 12 Euro, children (6-17 years) 7 Euro (Prien, Seestr.120, www.prienavera.de).

Lido Overseas. The longest beach in Bavaria, the most beautiful beach is far and wide. The access to the Chiemsee is oh and sandy. In addition to a park-sized sunbathing area, there is a large children's playground, beach volleyball and water volleyball fields, badminton courts, table tennis and a lawn chess game. The day at the water goes by and ends at the Caribbean beach bar. Free admission (Übersee, Julius-Exter-Promenade 31).

Experience

Kampenwand. A cable car leads to the foot of the most striking mountain in the Chiemgau Alps. Starting from the mountain station, hiking trails of varying length and difficulty start, for example the almost flat panoramic trail to the Steinlingalm (1 hour). Lauffaule find a few steps from the mountain station two rest stops: the chic Sonnenalm and the cozy Möslarn Alm. Kampenwandbahn ride up and down 18.50 euros, children (5-15 years) 9 euros (Aschau im Chiemgau, An der Bergbahn 8).

Open-air museum Glentleiten. How did the people of Upper Bavaria live in past centuries? Glentleiten has rebuilt more than 60 original houses from different eras. Forged, woven and carved in historical workshops, pets of old races graze in the pastures. The grounds include forests and extensive gardens with panoramic views of mountains and lakes. Admission 7 euros, children (6-15 years) 2 euros (Großweil, An der Glentleiten 4, www.glentleiten.de).

Salt mine Berchtesgaden. Miners lead deep into the interior of Berchtesgadener Salzberg through the underground tunnel system. Children love the slides, the mine train and the raft trip over the 130 meter deep Spiegelsee. And, by the way, learn where the salt comes from for your breakfast egg. Admission 17 euros, children (4-16 years) 9.50 euros (Berchtesgaden, Bergwerkstr.83, www.salzbergwerk.de).

Amusement Park Ruhpolding. In the midst of the Chiemgau Alps, children have been feeling like fairy tales for 50 years, because in small wooden houses dolls move to fairy tales like "Hans im Glück", "Rumpelstiltskin" or "Rapunzel". There is also a summer toboggan run, a huge, varied playground and, most recently, two boat slides for refreshment on particularly hot days. Admission (from 12 years) 14,50 Euro, children up to 11 years 12,50 Euro, children under 90 cm free (Ruhpolding, Vorderbrand 7, Tel. Www.freizeitpark.by).

Kesselbergstraße. The navigation device showed wild snares: the serpentines of Kesselbergstraße. At the beginning of the 20th century, even car and motorcycle races were organized on the pass road between the Kochelsee and the Walchensee. Today on nice days hundreds of bikers hunt their machines through the tight bends. But on weekends and public holidays they are not allowed to drive. There is a ban on overtaking and a speed limit of 60 km / h on the entire route - the ride is still exciting enough in the motorhome.

Absolutely take

Headlights! We have always ridiculed the pseudo speleologists with their professional headlights. But on some campsites will? it is very dark at night - and if you need both hands, the flashlight between your teeth becomes quite heavy in the long run.

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