Gran Canaria: Travel to an island that has it all

Mountains that are the most beautiful on foot

Where is Ulysses still dragging us? We are already on the road for over four hours. Our destination: the Roque Nublo, the Clouds Rock, a large basalt monolith and landmark of the island. Only in a big round around him. And then get on his pedestal. A wonderful way, from the beginning. It leads along the edge of the Caldera de Tejeda, a gigantic giant crater in the center of the island, over black and red soil, through sparse pine and cedar forests, on a bumpy paved path down to a quiet village. And from there up again. We could have done it right away. But Ulysses turns off, onto a sloping ledge. Below a deep abyss. "Come on," says Ulysses, shaking hands with me. Slowly we go almost to the edge. Half of Gran Canaria spreads before me, a bizarre volcanic mountains as in the 3-D cinema. Tangible close stands out like a huge palate of Roque Bentaiga. A former volcanic vent, 1400 meters high. Behind it a wide plateau with white villages. In the last row the massive back of the Tamadaba, covered by dense pine forests. And deep at their feet gorges, palm groves, glittering reservoirs, the sea ("Samsara Tours" from Cruz de Tejeda, 12.5 kilometers, about 5 hours, medium, 41 euros with picnic and return transport, phone 928/27 30 27, www.wandernaufgrancanaria.com).

Foresight: on the Roque Bentaiga.

Far away from civilization The rock walls rise vertically. I take a look back to the lovely valley of Agaete in the northwest of the island - here at the very end of the hamlet El Sao it narrows to the narrow gorge. On a serpentine, ancient path I want to go up to the cave village Hornillo. Sage smells. Reeds rustle. Geraniums indulge in pink beside abandoned rock dwellings. No human far and wide. Deeper and deeper into the barren mountain landscape, along the ridge - with incredible views! (By car from Agaete follow the signs "El Valle", then four kilometers two hours back and forth, good on your own, only steeply rising at the beginning.) The round is a part of the "Tamadaba round trip" from San Pedro, 17 kilometers, seven hours, exhausting! Great information: hiking guide "Gran Canaria" by Dumont, 12,99 Euro.)

Walking time: Nicole Schmidt with Guide Ulysses.

Way of St. James between volcanoes On old pilgrim paths the "Camino de Santiago" crosses the island. From the turbulent beaches in the hot South to the cool North, where long-needle pine trees milk the Passat Clouds. From the Maspalomas lighthouse you start in three stages: via San Bartolomé de Tirajana - 27 kilometers, difficult - the Cruz de Tejeda pass - 19 kilometers, medium - to the church of Santiago de los Caballeros in Gàldar - 30 kilometers, easy. (Guided tour guide: www.grancanaria.com printed guide to the Patronato de Gran Canaria, C. Triana 93, Las Palmas, Tel. 0034/928/21 96 00.)

Tau-hours: stone root in the morning.

From the roof of the island to the cave village At the Cruz de Tejeda pass, easily reached by bus number 18 from the south, many hiking trails meet in the wild mountainous region of the island. My favorite route with panoramic views leads from here in three easily manageable hours on soft forest roads and old, created by the Spanish conquerors Royal ways up to Artenara, the highest village of Gran Canaria, where many residents still live like a thousand years ago in cave dwellings. And where you can eat in the "La Esquina" on the church square wonderful tapas (Who plans longer tours: hiking without luggage, to book at Tel. 0034/699/12 49 85, www.discoverygrancanaria.com).

Houses where you want to stay long

Relax with high-altitude noise: in the hotel "Parador Cruz de Tejeda". DZ / F from 85 Euro (Tel.0034 / 928/012 500, www.parador.es)

Do I want the paradise garden where papayas grow? Breakfast on the terrace under the dragon tree? Or the four-poster bed in the old hacienda in the middle of a banana plantation? In Gran Canaria I always have a hard time deciding where to stay ...

Shadow court: in the "Villas Salobre Golf".

Roca Negra I never forget that look: from the balcony of the pool terrace over the sea to the volcano Teide on the neighboring island of Tenerife a. In the surroundings: sea basin, the snorkeling beach Playa de Sardina, the white village of Agaete. Away from the hustle and bustle, this hotel sits in the northwest on black lava rocks. From the outside it seems a bit cool, but inside it is very pleasant with its open corridors, spacious, modern-elegant rooms, large spa area (entrance 25 euros) and delicious food. DZ / F from 99 Euro (Urb. El Turman, Avda. Alfredo Kraus 42, Tel. 0034/928/89 80 09, www.hotelrocanegragrancanaria.com).

Casa Rural Finca la Mareta In the northwest, in the middle of the beautiful Agaete valley, are these three exemplary renovated, whitewashed, Canarian-rustic holiday cottages. Between palms, cypresses and purple bougainvillea bushes you will always find a place to read, and there is also a pool. One week from 560 Euro (Valle de Agaete, km 1.5, Tel. 0034/928/48 06 58, www.lascasascanarias.com).

Hacienda del Buen Suceso Glass railing next to rough stone walls, white beds overlooking wooden shingles, antique-style upholstered couches, cobblestone terraces and lounge furniture I do not even want to get up from: so beautifully upgraded is the island's oldest hacienda in Arucas to the north Service. DZ / F from 115 Euro (from Arucas to Banaderos, km 1, Tel. 0034/928/62 29 45, www.haciendabuensuceso.com, bookable eg via www.thomascook.de).

Holiday house: the "Finca La Mareta".

Viverde read Tirajanas I feel like an eagle in this rust-red hotel at 900 meters on a rocky plateau in the south of the island. Spectacular the view to the sea! 60 rustic rooms with warm colors and lots of wood, the spa is built into a lava rock, and in addition to yoga and aloe vera workshops, guided hikes are also offered. One week in a double / half board with flight from 849 Euro (C. Ofi cial Mayor José Rubio, s / n, San Bartolome de Tirajana, Tel. 0034/928/12 30 00, www.hotelrurallastirajanas.com, bookable via www.tui .com).

Bohemia Garden gnomes as a table base, instead of lamps shining terrace armchairs, bright yellow leather sofas on mahogany floors: I really like the island's first design boutique hotel. Although it is located in the tourist stronghold of Playa del Inglés, I switch off here immediately - z. For example, in the "Siam Spa" or in the rooftop restaurant with panoramic views over the beach and dunes, where the Schwabe Steff en Schenk cooks delicacies like Loup de Mer with coriander crust (25 euros). DZ / F from 270 Euro (Av. De los Estados Unidos 28, Tel. 0034/928/76 00 58, www.bohemia-grancanaria.com, also bookable via www.thomascook.de).

Club de Mar The apartment complex with the airy Canarian style two-storey cottage located in my picture-book resort of Puerto de Mogán in the southwest - nice and quiet behind the harbor area. One week with flight around 800 Euro (Urbanización Puerto de Mogán s / n, Playa de Mogán, Tel. 0034/928/56 50 66, bookable via www.tui.com).

Villas Salobre Golf Even non-golfers like me feel at home in this resort in Maspalomas' hinterland: All holiday homes are privately owned and beautifully modern. My favorite: the villa "Vista Golf 18" - high quality interior, exterior pool and barbecue. From 115 Euro / day (Tel 0034/928/58 00 30, via www.salobregolfvillas.com).

tip: For further information on hikes and accommodations at "GranCanaria Natural": www.grancanariafincas.com

Las Palmas, a city that surprises

go out After midnight: In Las Palmas you can go from bars to pubs and further into discos with open end.

Lantern light shimmers on the facades of white Art Nouveau palaces and colonial mansions. The frog fountain is lit. Palm trees sway in the balmy wind. Ragged the terraces of the pubs in the Plaza de Las Ranas, the meeting point for night owls in the old town Triana. "The pulse of our hometown is best felt when the stars are shining," says Cristina, whom I first met in a café at noon. Midnight in Las Palmas, and I feel like South America. Just up the stairs, in the open-air bar La Azotea de Benito (C.C. Monopol, 2a Planta), high above the rooftops of the city, the bartender mixes delicious cocktails. Young to middle-aged audience sits on white couches or leans against the railing. Everything laughs and talks, even about the economic crisis. "We do not have a lot of money, so many are unemployed, but no one stays home for the weekend, at least for a drink," says Cristina and shrugs her shoulders. Over there, the lights of the Vegueta, the oldest neighborhood, sparkle with its alley Calle Pelota. Our next stop: La Septima with Broadwy (C. Cano, 17). Until recently, a rundown library, now an urban bar with brick walls and 1960s furniture. Las Palmas has totally spruced up in recent years. in the Tao Club Garden (Jardines Alonso Quesada, s / n), an Asian-themed disco terrace around the corner of the marina, are all in motion. The DJ hangs up: salsa, good mood songs. The next time I look at the clock, it's four in the morning. I have to go to bed. Finally, I need stamina tomorrow: to shop - this is super cheap!

shopping

Main shopping street is the Avenida Mesa y López; The prettier area and smaller shops have the Triana area, especially nice boutiques on Calle Triana and their side streets like Calle Cano. You should absolutely stop by these addresses:

Showroom Trastornados. Home accessories, jewelry and Spanish designer dresses (C. Pérez Galdós, 13).

Elegance. Perfumery with good advice and bargain prices for fragrances and cosmetics (C. Sagasta 11).

Calzados Gilfoso. Shoes, shoes! Even high-heeled ones are still comfortable thanks to good plateaus (C. Triana 57).

Garnet. Original, brightly colored dresses for every day, but also glittering evening gowns especially Spanish brands (C. Arena, 15).

FEDAC shop. Ceramics, baskets, belts, embroidery and other handicrafts (C. Domingo J. Navarro 7).

Bimba & Lola. A wine-red checked coat with a bright blue cuddly collar, hand shoes with snake-closing, silk blouses, pockets, hats. I would like to buy everything! So feminine, coquettish and humorous comes the fashion label of two Spanish designer sisters (C. Cano 42).

Stay

Hotel Santa Catalina. A grand hotel, as I imagine: marble and chandeliers in the lobby, half-timbered balconies and turrets, antiques. The rooms are simpler, spa and pool new. DZ / F from 96 Euro (C. León y Castillo 227, Tel. 0034/928/24 30 40, www.hotelsantacatalina.com).

Aloe Canteras.Before breakfast in the sea and then in the city! 42 simple rooms - those with the numbers 6 or 7 have the best view! DZ / F from 60 Euro (C. Sagasta 98, Tel. 0034/928/46 49 07, www.hotelaloe-canteras.com).

Gran Canaria - the map

Our team

Fashion treasure trove: "Bimba & Lola" in Las Palmas.

Nicole Schmidt (right) and photographer Djamila Grossman could not resist the great shopping in Las Palmas and first bought a new coat - for the next spring.