Rome for children, fun for everyone!
Fred and the strawberry ice cream
Without Fred, I would probably lie in bed with these outrageously tasty biscotti and be sorry. Finally in Rome and then that: rain. But my son is already in rubber boots at the door and urges: "Mom, when do we go lo-hos!" - "Wait, honey, I just have to blow dry my shoes," I shout, "they're still wet from yesterday!" While the rain rinses my holiday joy in the Gulli's nastiness, he is Fred piepegal. Fred does not care that we upset our plans. Instead of renting a rowboat in the park as promised, I cautiously suggest St. Peter's Basilica. "Okay, Pizzadom!" He says. And shines.
"So we come back": ChroniquesDuVasteMonde editor Susanne Arndt and Fred throw coins in the Trevi Fountain
My son confuses me. I could have sworn he was blushing when he was stuck in rainy lanes with his mother, instead of chasing chickens over the dunghill with farm mates. Farm holidays, that's what he has come to know as "holidays". But I did not want to - the last time I did not even find the chicks cute anymore. I finally wanted to breathe city air again, I wanted to go to Rome! When Fred demanded "noodles with sauce" at home again, I began to wonder: was not the love of children of the Romans legendary? Just like their gelati and pasta? So why wait another ten years? In Rome there had to be trees for climbing and children to run around. Fred quickly became convinced of our travel plans: putting his hand in the ancient polygraph "Mouth of Truth", snacking on the planet's tastiest ice cream storming Castel Sant'Angelo. , ,
Holidays for the feet: City tour by double-decker bus, passing the Colosseum
When we arrive, the Eternal City does not look as sunny as in our dreams. The air is pregnant with incense and detergents, filth is in the streets. Minimüllabfuhren buzz over the squares, here and there men jump out with brushsticks and sweep in vain against the garbage. It starts to trickle. But Fred conquers the Campo de 'Fiori, climbs onto the monument in the middle - the philosopher Giordano Bruno was once burned here as a heretic. A little later my son weighs himself to the heartbreak song "Besame mucho", which smashes a street combo to Bruno's feet. Finally we sit down to Bruno on the damp stones, lick coconut and zabaione ice cream and prepare our ice cream waffles: Hurray, we are in Rome! A girl with dark curls comes shakily and ruffles Fred's blond hair. How many Roman women will do after her.
Break must be: Fred makes it comfortable in an Ape
The next morning we are at the "Pizza Dome". A colorfully shielded crowd snakes around St. Peter's Square, which melts away in the wet. We line up, Fred sits nicely in his buggy under the pink children's umbrella, which he found in our apartment. When we finally get in, Fred turns around in a circle: "I want to see the Pope, and Pia." - "Pia? Which Pia?" I ask. "Well, Pia in the Vatican!" When I burst out, he looks at me in amazement: "Are not they?" No. It's only in your Rome book, which we have read so often!
The "Casina del Lago" at Villa Borghese serves good espresso
We stroke over Peter's foot for happiness, then Fred kneels down and runs his hand over the cool marble floor, looking in wonder at Michelangelo's majestic dome. To a group of Greek Orthodox priests he says "Ciao!", One looks at him evil. Later, when I ask him what he liked the most in St. Peter's Basilica, he says, "The black men."
We take the bus to the park, to the "Casina di Raffaello". I had already looked at the children's house before the trip. Here Fred rages the city out of his body, builds pastel-green foam elements caves and a house with a garden - "for you, Mama". Thankfully, I sit in my foam garden and relax, look out into the rain for ball trees, staff trees, umbrella trees. Then Ariana comes hitching, the kids play ball, until Fred roars angrily: "Give him hither!" Time to go.
Rest in the monastery garden near the Spanish Steps
Weather god Jupiter is far from finished with us: on the Gianicolo hill the sirocco blows the map out of his hands and the dust in his eyes. The plane trees shake off branches that sneeze, cough, dab. In vain we are looking for the puppet theater, which will take place here at twelve o'clock. Finally, we learn that only on the weekend is played. As a consolation, there are two rounds on the carousel. The sellers who sell ice-cold "Bibite" up here are not selling anything to us because we only have a 50-euro bill.So far, with the Roman child-friendliness, it's not that long ago you would not be able to remove the soda from the child when you realize that you can not give it away. But Fred takes it easy. No children's theater, no drinking - what's up? Slowly, his long-suffering becomes uncanny.
"Another orange juice, please!": Fred in front of a plate of fresh pasta
After all, the storm sweeps the sky clean, and finally he is what he is for Rome: azure. We walk through narrow streets, past stucco workers and laundries hiding in the bellies of ocher-colored palazzi. The market at Campo de 'Fiori smells of freshly baked bread and diesel. Apes laden with vegetable boxes rattle in, men in dark suits read the newspaper while others polish their shoes. Market women clean Puntarelle, the popular Roman chicory, with stewed zucchini flowers, artichokes, Terracina strawberries and Marino white onions.
Fred conquers not only the city on the left, but also the hearts of the mimes standing in the magnificent squares. In front of the Trevi Fountain, an otherwise motionless Statue of Liberty winks at him in a friendly way, he flirts with the golden sphinx in the Piazza del Popolo, and with Pinocchio in Piazza Navona it is Amore's first glance: When the long-nosed guy bends over to Fred and shakes his hand, he gently kisses him on the tip of his nose.
On the way to the Spanish Steps we discover a monastery garden. Siesta! I lay back on the bench next to the fountain and watch the seagulls sailing through the blue above me - messengers from the nearby Mediterranean. Fred shakes lemons from the trees, Davide and Carlotta join them, the three of them balance on the edge of the fountain. Children do not need playgrounds. They are making some.
Only from Siesta Fred holds nothing. Only in the evening at the trattoria, usually around 8 pm, does he say abruptly: "I want to go home." Then he puts away the fork, with which he has just shoveled buttery pasta into his mouth, gets up and leaves. Since the dear mother can still call so long, roar, scold that they will one day still lose.
Our forays take their toll: A wheel of the buggy breaks. I tie it with the headphone cable from the city tour that I find in my bag. Five corners further the wheel tears off completely. It's not a big problem pushing Fred. On this trip to Rome, I do not learn how thick the walls of the Colosseum are, but things suitable for everyday use like these: A buggy has eight wheels - but seven do.
I push Fred to the Gelateria del Teatro, my favorite ice cream shop - I like the idea of raspberry ice cream with sage. We can watch Silvia making ice cream. "In Rome, children get ice cream when they are six months old," says the young woman as she squeezes out organic lemons. She smirks, "That means, from their fathers often even earlier, they then beg us: 'But do not tell Mama!'" The first lemon ice cream pours out of the man-sized ice machine. Silvia fills two waffles and holds us the sorbet beaming: "Do you want to try?" Fred, still poled on German industrial ice, makes no move to accept the planet's freshest ice cream. Rain, thirst, thwarted plans - nothing could spoil his mood. But now he quacks: "That's supposed to be ice cream?" and grimaces: "That's not nice, it looks so mushy!"
Travel Info: Rome for all
Direct arrival from Munich by night train, with the European special tariffs of the train back and forth with child 178 to 338 Euro (www.bahn.de/citynightline). Or z. For example, a flight with Air Berlin, an adult with a child and return from 295 euros (www.airberlin.de).
phone
Dial code to Italy 0039, then abroad and in Rome dial area code 06.
find accommodation
"B & B Casale Altavilla"
O Solemio The German Silke Bomber offers nice rooms, apartments, apartments and B & Bs in the historic center. From 85 Euro (Via Marco Decumio 63, Tel. 76 90 63 11, www.o- solemio.com).
Residenza Il Bollo Tasteful, quiet apartments in the center, partly floor to ceiling windows and balcony. Apartment from 130 Euro (Vicolo del Bollo 4, Tel. 320 76 25, www.bolloapartments.it).
Albergo del Sole al Biscione Friendly, friendly hotel near Campo de 'Fiori with flowering roof gardens between the domes of Rome. Double room without bathroom from 100 Euro, with bathroom from 125 Euro (Via del Biscione, 76, Tel. 68 80 68 73, www.solealbiscione.it).
B & B Casale Altavilla Garden with pool, delicious breakfast buffet and an English speaking hostess. Simona Vita has three big dogs. Double room with breakfast from 80 Euro. A bit out of the way but by bus 881 in 15 minutes to the Vatican (Via del Fontanile Arenato 4, Tel. 66 03 04 69, www.bb-casalealtavilla.com).
Pizza & Pasta
"Dar Filettario a Santa Barbara"
Forno Very popular with Romans and holidaymakers on the hand, as well as pastries and cakes (Campo de 'Fiori, corner of Via dei Cappellari).
Panificio Mosca Delicious take-away pizza at the Vatican (Via Candia 16, Tel. 39 74 21 34, www.panificiomosca.it).
Trattoria Antonio Bassetti Typical Roman, cheap Trattoria near Piazza Navona. Delicious: Straccetti (Beef with Ruccola) and Involtini with Cicoria (Rouladen with Wegwarte). Pasta 7 euros, meat 10 euros (Via del Governo Vecchio 18, Tel. 33 35 87 07 79).
Pizzeria Baffetto 2 Huge, crunchy pizza for a small price at Campo de 'Fiori. Try pizza with zucchini flowers (Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo 18, tel. 68 21 08 07).
Dar Filettario a Santa Barbara Roman institution near the Campo de 'Fiori. Specialty: Filetti di Baccalà (deep-fried stockfish) with Puntarelle alla Romana (chicory salad with anchovy dressing) on the plastic plate, as well as antipasti and bruschette (Largo dei Librari, 88, tel. 686 40 18).
Pizza Ciro Large pizzeria at the Spanish Steps. Romans and tourists eat elbows at elbows, there are pizzas for up to four people (Via della Mercede 43/45, Tel. 678 60 15, www.pizzaciro.it).
Ristorante Campo de Fiori Tasty: Chicken with paprika, then chocolate ice cream. Friendly waiters, in front of the restaurant a fountain and flower stalls (Campo de 'Fiori, corner of Via del Pellegrino).
Bibli Feudal breakfast in Trastevere: In the bookstore Bibli there is wonderful brunch in the courtyard. Adults 18 euros, children 10 euros (Via dei Fienaroli 28, Tel. 581 45 34, www.bibli.it).
Campo de 'Fiori In the morning every morning fresh fruits and vegetables.
Vineria Salumeria Roscioli Huge selection of cheese, ham, salami, wine and olive oil at Campo de 'Fiori (Via de Giubbonari 21).
Pescheria Ittica Attanasia Fresh fish, just around the corner at Campo de 'Fiori (Via del Biscione 12).
ice
Santa Barbara Yogurteria E Cremolati Crêpes and yoghurt in all variations on a pretty square at Campo de 'Fiori. Be sure to take a look at the baroque church (Largo Dei Librari 86, tel. 68 30 93 24).
Il Gelato di San Crispino Puggery at the Trevi Fountain? The Gelaterien left there left, because San Crispino is not far! Eg cream ice cream with honey threads "San Crispino" (Via della Panetteria 42, Tel. 679 39 24, www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it)
Gelateria L'Impero del Gelato Small gelateria near the bridge Ponte Sisto. Delicious ice cream, z. For example, as a reward for a walk to Trastevere (Via Dei Pettinari 43, tel. 686 56 50).
Gelateria della Palma Overwhelming selection of passion fruit to licorice. Alone more than ten types of chocolate, many varieties of soy ice cream. Near Pantheon (Via della Maddalena 20, tel. 68 80 67 52).
Blue ice Decent gelateria chain. Especially tasty: coconut and watermelon (for example Via dei Baullari 130, at Campo de 'Fiori or in Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere).
Giolitti The oldest ice cream shop in Rome. Be sure to try the champagne ice cream! With the ice cream on hand, cream and crumble for free (Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40, Tel. 699 12 43, www.giolitti.it).
Pascucci bar Large selection of fruit shakes, granitas and frappks (via diTorre Argentina 20, tel. 686 48 16, www.pascuccifrullati.it).
Look at
Trambus Open City tour in open double-decker bus to all major attractions. 24-hour ticket for adults 20 euros, children under five free (line 110, from Termini Station, www.trambusopen.com). Alternative: The old green Tram no. 19 drives across the city. Start at the Piazza del Risorgimento at the Vatican and drive to the Piazza dei Gerani in the east. One person per person.
Villa Sciarra Pretty little park south of the Gianicolo with palm alley, many fountains, sculptures and artfully cut trees.
Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele 11 For the best panoramic view of Rome take glass elevator to the roof, seven euros. Before, drink fresh fruit juice on the café terrace, with Forum Romanum and Coliseum at your feet (Piazza di Venezia, tel. 678 09 05).
Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere Pretty car-free place with gelateria, ideal for relaxing: sitting comfortably on the steps of the fountain in the sun and watching nuns, business people and tourists. Worth seeing: the Marienkirche.
Convento dei Padri Minimi Small monastery between the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps with a moss-covered fountain, stone benches, citrus trees and flowers in terracotta pots (Via di Sant'Andrea delle Fratte, corner of Via de Capo le Case, entrance next to the church).
Read
Instructions for use for Rome. Here you look behind the scenes: Birgit Schönau tells exciting things from everyday life in Rome (Piper, 12.90 euros).
info
Ufficio turismo, Via Leopardi 24, 00185 Rome, Tel. 06 06 06, www.turismoroma.it
Travel Info: Rome for children
Romping, making things, building colorful foams Building houses: In the "Casina di Raffaello" children have a good time, even when it rains
1. It is best to rent an apartment in the center around the Campo de 'Fiori: there are many attractions within walking distance, there is a market, very little traffic, and the bus 116 goes directly to the Villa Borghese park, Explora children's museum and on the Gianicolo.
2. Put the mobile phone number in the pocket of the child - if it gets lost.
3. Take a buggy, even if the child does not need it anymore at home.
4. In Gelateria just ask for half servings ("mezza porzione") for the "Bambini"; with a little luck, the smallest costs only one instead of two euros.
5. The same is true in the restaurant: there are no children's plates, also ask here for "mezza porzione".
6. Eat early: Most restaurants open at 19 o'clock, and around 20 o'clock are formed like snakes.
7. If you still have to queue: A secret lollipop can work wonders.
8. Pack up a little ball for the parks. Even more practical: Balloons that you can easily inflate if necessary.
9. The city map "Roma Metro Bus" lists all public transport. Six euros (in tobacconists).
10. Buy a small ticket stock at the tobacconist. All transport one euro.
Cockaigne
Gelateria del Teatro Here, the little guests are allowed to watch the ice cream. For example, fresh hazelnut or apple ice cream, which is then enjoyed under a pergola on mosaic tables near Piazza Navona. For chilly days there's hot chocolate. Our dessert favorite! (Via di S. Simone 70, Tel. 45 47 48 80).
Love, dear sun
Villa Borghese
Villa Borghese The park north of the historic center is in good weather a paradise for families: Here you can row and watch turtles (adults three euros, children € 1.50), rent a rickshaw, ride a carousel, pony ride on the weekend in front of the Casina di Raffaello, have a picnic, drink an espresso in the expensive but beautiful Casina del Lago, go to the Italian-language children's cinema or puppet show (bus 116).
Bioparco Zoo In the north of Villa Borghese, designed by Carl Hagenbeck. Open from 9.30 am to 6 pm, weekends until 7 pm, adults € 10, children € 8 (Piazzale del Giardino Zoologico 1, tel. 360 82 11, www.bioparco.it).
Janiculum Hill Puppet Theater on Saturdays and Sundays 12 noon. Also: a carousel and a splendid view over Rome (bus 116, Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi).
Bocca della Verità "Who plundered the cookie box last night?" The mouth of truth, a kind of ancient lie detector, bites away swindlers, according to the legend (Piazza della Bocca della Verità).
RomaCulta City tours in German, each family is individually cared for. Half day 120 Euro (Via Caio Canuleio 95, mobile 0039/33 87 60 74 70, www.romaculta.it).
Piazza di San Cosimato Playground made of steel and rubber in Trastevere, for romping and pigeon hunting.
Rain, rain, droplets
Casina di Raffaello Children's home in the Villa Borghese for three to eleven year olds. With Toberaum and book corner, ideal in bad weather. Sign up for afternoon tinkering! Closed on Mondays, three euros per child (Tel 06 06 08, Piazza di Siena, www.casinadiraffaello.it).
Explora - il Museo dei Bambini Interactive museum where kids can experiment in a replica town. Log In! Closed on Mondays, admission 10, 12, 15 and 17 o'clock. Children from three years seven euros, adults six euros (Via Flaminia 82, Tel. 361 37 76, www.mdbr.it).
Museo Central del Risorgimento The Museum of the National Liberation Struggle of Italy ("Risorgimento") shows swords, cannons and uniforms. Free (in Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II, Piazza di Venezia, Tel. 679 35 98).
Read out
Pia in the Vatican Fred's favorite book: Pia discovers the Vatican with her new friend Julius. From 4 years (Bernward at Don Bosco, 7.90 euros).
Come along! Rome for children A little tiger cat leads through the folding book. From 4 (Bohem Press, 9.50 Euro).
Fun with art and culture in Rome: a guide for children and the whole family The siblings Pollino and Pollina explore the city. From 9 (edition Kappa, 17.50 Euro).
