Aceto Balsamico: The elegance of vinegar

When Tiziana Bertolani Zini was baptized, she got from her grandparents a gift that may surprise strangers, but has a tradition in Emilia-Romagna: a "battery" (plural battery). This is the name of a series of barrels of different wood in descending size. It is the source of the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, the unique balsamic vinegar made from boiled grape juice for which the area is famous. Like many precious gifts, this gift is both a joy and a commitment.

A pleasure, because one Balsamico, made in the traditional waySomething so delicious and precious is that the word vinegar actually forbids it. And a pleasure because a real balsamic takes at least as many years to mature into a delicacy as the child needs to grow up.

A commitment, because you have to take care of the barrels constantly. And in the traditional way, as it has been widespread since the Middle Ages in Emilia-Romagna and the Modena region. Therefore, grandparents and parents not only pass on their barrels to subsequent generations, but also their family knowledge of the production of the famous Aceto.

Aceto Balsamico demands love for the product

"Balsamic-making calls for action"says Tiziana Bertolani Zini. "You need caring love for the product, the right environment, strong expertise and a lot of time." Tiziana, 48, knows what she's talking about. For 27 years, she has been the guardian of 2,500 barrels in her balsamic factory Terra del Tuono in Corticella / Emila-Romagna. Titian's baptismal gift turned out to be a prophecy. Already as a young woman, she began, as her father had done for decades, to collect battery. First, as well as the father, as a hobby. Many families today sell their inherited barrels because they lack the time, energy and, above all, the space to care for them.

Tiziana and her father bought what others wanted to get rid of: Some of their most beautiful batteries are well over a hundred years old, and the wood has become jet black after decades of use. So long did the two collect until there was no room left for them in the family home. But that changed when Tiziana got married. The couple was given a property by the in-laws with an old, half-ruined monastery building on it. In addition, several hectares of vineyards with vines from their grapes Tiziana today their Mosto Cotto, the basic ingredient of balsamic vinegar, cooks.

With much love, Tiziana and her husband rebuilt the building into a residential building - and into a classic one Acetaia, a balsamic manufactorythat enabled Tiziana to turn her passion into a career. In the spacious tiled rooms there is enough room for the big cider-making, for the hundreds of batteries in which Tiziana ripens her delicacies.

Artfully designed window openings without windows let the heat in the summer and the cold in winter - which is good for the balsamic. And they provide fresh, spicy air, which blows over from the next walnut tree grove. It makes the balsamic even more aromatic.

Tiziana likes to lead visitors through her factory, with paintings painted by her on the walls. And if you're lucky, you even get a balsamic menu. One would like to have that, after having experienced the Acetaia. There is not only this beautiful, very old battery, from which - almost priceless - over 25 years old Balsamic Extra Vecchio comes: Just a drop of it makes you happy.

Aceto balsamic made from cooked cider

There are also many barrels of mulberry wood and rare juniper wood in addition to the classic oak barrels such as oak, cherry, chestnut and ash. Juniper and mulberry are equally the signature of Tiziana's family: "Mosto Cotto from these barrels has a similar effect to pepper in the food - it gives my balsamic a very special touch," she says and lops one of the wipes that cover the barrels : The scent is spicy and - unique.

Every year in January, Tiziana fills her Mosto Cotto from one barrel to the next, as tradition dictates. But taking samples and monitoring every single barrel must be done all the time. And when in autumn the grape harvest starts and the cider is cooked for days, sometimes Tiziana has an 18-hour day. That's never too much for her: "On the contrary, I always have more ideas." Her latest project is a Balsamic made from cooked cider, "Before I fall asleep, I think about what I could try, and I try it in the morning," she says, laughing.

Before filling the Mosto Cotto, the casks are acidified with wine vinegar and the vinegar bacteria start fermentation. For fermentation, the must also needs air.Therefore, the barrels are never made full and have an opening at the top, which is closed only with a cloth. The third important condition for optimal ripening is the seasonal temperatures: winter cold precipitates the turbid matter and clears the balsamic vinegar, summer heat promotes fermentation and allows liquid to evaporate, making the balsamic creamy. In the past, batteries were often stored in the attic.

For Aceto Balsamico there are strict quality controls

The balsamic vinegar is filled once a year from one barrel to another so that the balsamic vinegar can absorb the aroma of every type of wood. And in winter, when the vinegar bacteria are inactive. First, it's the tiniest cask: everything that has evaporated (or was taken) is replenished. Of course, this next barrel is refilled, also from the next larger barrel. So it goes to the last, the largest barrel. There, the missing liquid is replaced each year by freshly boiled grape juice. In this way comes in the smallest barrel over time a small amount of highly aromatic liquid from all the other wooden barrels: Aceto Balsamico.

But he can only call himself "Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena / di Reggio Emilia" if he at least twelve years in the smallest barrel if it has been produced in the abovementioned regions and if it meets the quality and purity requirements set by a regional consortium and reviewed every year.

This is how Aceto Balsamico is made

Balsamic vinegar, unlike wine vinegar, is made from boiled grape juice (Mosto Cotto). Made from grape varieties growing in the Modena and Emilia-Romagna regions. Mostly Trebbiano grapes, but also Lambrusco grape varieties.

During hours of boiling this grape juice is reduced by up to 70 percent. The syrupy must that is produced is the basic substance of balsamic vinegar.

He comes to mature in different wooden barrels. Such a barrel series is called Batteria. It consists of three to ten copies. Each barrel is made of a different type of wood. Classic are oak, ash, chestnut and cherry - they add depth, color, aroma and elegance to the balsamic vinegar. Depending on the family recipe, other varieties are added, they provide spice and fruitiness.

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ChroniquesDuVasteMonde-WOMAN readers can order the Balsamici individually or as a gift set.

Aceto, 10 years old, 250 ml, 15 Euro; Aceto, 15 years old, 100 ml, 29 Euro; Aceto with pear, 100 ml, 12 Euro. Plus. 6,00 Euro packaging and shipping. Or gift set with the three Aceti 55 euros including shipping. About: City and More Tel. 072 21/99 28 99 Fax 072 21/99 28 88 info@cityandmore.de, www.cityandmore.de