Will my favorite perfume soon be gone? EU plans ban on fragrances
A nervous murmur has passed through the cosmetics industry since the European Union announced in December 2012 for the first time that it would strive to restrict the regulation of fragrances in perfumes and creams. Now, the EU Commission is still on top by prohibiting three substances that were previously allowed in small doses. Reason: Allergy sufferers could react with skin irritation, rash or eczema. Although the ban would not remove any scent from the market, even perfumeries like Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent or Hermès would have to change some of their formulas.
Specifically, it is about HICC, atranol and chloratranol - fragrances that are used not only in perfumes, but also in household cleaners. The Bavarian State Office for Health and Food Safety, for example, claims that HICC has "a high allergenic potential" and found it in just under a third of 17 odoriferous waters. The agency criticizes that the fragrance is still used, although the manufacturers know that some people get allergies.
The situation is similar with the other two substances that the EU would like to ban. "Atranol and chloratranol are components of the oak moss, one of the most used fragrances in perfumes," explains the Cologne dermatologist Dr. med. Uta Schlossberger, spokeswoman for the Federal Association of Dermatologists. Perfumers love the moss, which is grown mainly in France, Greece and the Balkans, not only because of its characteristic forest odor, but because it also extends the shelf life of the product. Some manufacturers have already responded to a possible ban and sought alternatives. For example, Guerlain's fragrance experts have succeeded in replacing an allergenic molecule in oak moss. Other perfumers have completely replaced the moss with patchouli and vetiver notes. Still others use synthetic moss flavors to mimic the forest scent.
Uta Schlossberger does not think much of a general ban, as provided for by the new Cosmetics Regulation. "Oakmoss is only allowed in extremely low concentrations anyway - we're talking about 0.001 percent for perfumes." It would be more important to the dermatologist, that on the packs is clearer, what is really in it - "except for 26 very allergenic fragrances, the manufacturers do not specify the substances exactly." But this information is crucial for allergy sufferers to be able to avoid the product. Finally, redness, itching, swelling, wet skin or eczema can be triggered by a single skin contact.
A controversial law
Even natural cosmetics manufacturers are worried, because in addition to the substances mentioned stink the EU experts also eight substances that occur in natural products. Including lime, which is in oranges, lemons and bergamot, as well as citronellol, which is found in rose or geranium oil. These substances must already be mentioned on the ingredient list because of their allergenic potential, and sooner stricter limit values will apply.
No wonder, then, that the cosmetics industry is rather skeptical about the desired no to certain substances. "We find the information about a used ingredient more important than a general ban," says Birgit Huber, Deputy Managing Director of the Industry Association of Personal Care and Detergents (IKW). She points out that many companies have voluntarily lowered concentrations for years, such as: In HICC. Only the European Commission was not satisfied with it.
A petition has already been established on the online platform Parfumo. Angelika Förster, co-author of this action, states: "We say yes to information and transparency - no to patronizing - an overreaction would limit an old and wonderful European handicraft so much that it could break it." The perfume community is there for her: in four weeks already more than 2500 supporters have signed the petition against the EU ban.
What exactly does it mean for consumers if the Member States and the European Parliament approve the ban on HICC, Atranol and Chloratranol? "Before the end of 2014, we do not expect a change in the law, and then there will be transitional periods of two to five years for the products," explains Birgit Huber.Quietly, she also suggests some criticism of the plans: "One should consider how sensible it is at all to replace an indeed allergenic, but well-studied substance with one that has been inconspicuous up to now, but much less researched. " There will be a public consultation on the EU's plans by May 14, where manufacturers and associations can voice their opinion on the proposed ban on fragrances.
