Mauritius cheap? Go then!
Can someone turn off the rain? He rattles on the corrugated iron roof of the wood reminder, as if someone is constantly emptying his cutlery drawer. Next to my bed a puddle slowly forms. How about one of these expensive luxury hotels? With a marble lobby, palm trees and oversized rattan couches lining the beaches to the north? About Mauritius is said about the same as about Sylt: only rich. The reason is that English nobility shoots like to keep their bellies in the sun and Popsternchen spend the Christmas holiday, if they do not rumräkeln on any yacht in the Caribbean. Probably Prince Harry or Kylie Minogue would snatch away the last giant prawns at the breakfast buffet.
That can not happen to me in this small country hotel in the mountains in the southeast of the island. There is no buffet, no lobby and no giant prawns. Sometimes a horse looks through the window. The "La vieille cheminée" is the Mauritian answer to the German horse farm: down to earth, comfortable and not expensive. I fell in love immediately. Leak in the roof or not. Caroline, the 50-year-old owner, puts her motto to the point: "It's not luxury to call the room service, it's the luxury of being on your own."
If there was something like a green party in Mauritius, Caroline would be its leader. And her friend Celine the spokeswoman. While we ride together and my mold cappuccino carries me through man-high cane, Celine begins to tell. Because she speaks faster than Sarah Kuttner, I do not understand everything. What I understand is that this damned sugarcane, which impresses me just so much, occupies more than half of the island area and is at the expense of the original vegetation. And that everyone is a made-up idiot who does not care about the preservation of these plants. These are, for example, rare palms or woods such as macaque and ebony. Everything flattened over the decades to make money and make room for profitable sugar cane. The worst were the Dutch in their colonial era. "Damn, I tell you ...!", Calls Celine and starts a particularly long verbiage. The Dutch have not only eradicated the giant tortoises, but also eaten the last dodo, the landmark bird of Mauritius. A kind of black-brown goose with parrot beak. As compensation, they have exposed their ravenous wild boar. "Damn, believe me ...!"
There are people like Celine, Caroline and their husbands Robert and Emanuele, to whom Mauritius has an environmental awareness. White Mauritians of French descent. Of course, they are also the ones who can afford to buy 160 hectares of mountain land to set up a few weekend cottages and replant thousands of seedlings that may once again make a jungle for the children of their children.
It's like everywhere in the world: knows the money. But despite a diverse mix of ethnicities, there seems to be little racism on this approximately 1,800 square kilometer island in the Indian Ocean. The largest group of the population are Indians, followed by Creoles with African or European roots. Michel, our driver from Mozambique, would have to work for about four months to afford a single night in a luxury resort, but he does not look jealous. "Everyone gets their money's worth in Mauritius, and everyone who wants to work finds work," says Michel with Buddhist serenity.
As nice as it is on my pony farm too: I want to continue to the south coast. There are beaches without hotel castles, little tourists and lots of nature. A sugar manufacturer (and Caroline's "first kiss," as she tells me) set up a hotel there that she recommends to me: the "Lodge d'Andrea." Again, the "back to nature" concept applies. The bungalows on the cliffs have huge windows, and the sea in front of it plays the North Sea. Nothing with sweet and turquoise here. Huge waves break against black rocks. Three years ago, the company Amazon flown in here 200 people and celebrated a huge party. "This place is just Wow!" someone has written in the guestbook. He is right. At this part of the south coast little reminds of the styled bounty commercial panorama of the rest of Mauritius. It is rocky, steep and wild. I drive through sleepy towns with a mix of bungalows and wooden villas in the Caribbean style. Here are cheap apartments or houses for rent. On the streets are Indians with their rickshaws and offer for a few cents Samosas, Pakoras, Roti and Curry.
In "La Vanille Crocodile Park" at Rivière des Anguilles not only Nile crocodiles can be seen, but also the largest giant tortoise breeding in the world. Somewhat pitying, I watch the day trippers being dumped out of their hotel shuttles. It's fun to explore the coast on your own and just stop somewhere. For example, in Riambel, one of those long beaches where many locals meet. By the way: The secret Mauritian "national sport" is picnicking on the beach. Suddenly Dina is standing next to me. Where she comes from and what I do here, she wants to know. Not five minutes later, I'm sitting on her blanket, nibbling on a chicken thigh, admired by her six-year-old niece, Estair. Dina is from Madagascar, but there are hardly any jobs there. We chat a bit, and when I say goodbye, I have to promise to visit Dina at the Chinese restaurant in Grand Baie, where she works as a waitress.
Grand Baie is the Kampen of Mauritius. Here are the most exclusive hotels, and if you're lucky, meet a Stephanie of Monaco or Natalie Imbruglia. The place to be is called "Royal Palm Hotel". Whether we may look, I ask the porter at the monstrous cast-iron gate. "Non, madame." No chance without permission. Insanely important are all here in the north. Unfortunately, the bars in town look like everywhere in tourist resorts. Nothing for me. I want to go back to the mountains. Or what they call mountains here.
The mountain of Mauritians is called Le Morne Brabant and is located in the extreme southwest of the island. It is 556 meters high and about what Ayers Rock is to the Australians: sacred, mysterious and untouchable. To climb it, you need the right hiking guide. Ours is called Yan and is pretty much right. He is the only one who is allowed on the Le Morne and makes a very good figure otherwise. It is hard to believe that he spent four years in the monastery in France before deciding not to deprive his good genes of the world. If you want to climb the mountain with Yan, you have to get up early (because of the heat) and have good nerves (because of the abyss). Half the way you spend hanging on ropes, which he has attached himself, and tries to pull on rocky walls on paths that do not deserve this name. Fear of heights not excluded. But when I finally stand at the summit cross, it's breathtaking! Yan distributes bribes for relegation and assures us that he really controls the ropes regularly. And this man finally wanted to become a monk. , ,
The final paradise is not far from Le Morne in "Lakaz Chamarel". Here in Chamarel I started my journey; Here I stop again. Chamarel is an island on the island. A cozy little village where reggae is still alive. In the lodge of Virginie and her husband Jean-Marc I find the perfect blend of nature, style and a little bit of luxury. The main house is an open Balinese style building, guests are accommodated in individual wooden bungalows, some with their own mini-pool.
Luckily I have already seen something of the island, because I hardly like the "Lakaz" anymore. The only question is: which place is the most beautiful? The wooden chairs by the pool, at the edge of a stone Buddha spewing water? The armchair on the veranda overlooking the landscaped pond? The sofa in the library reminiscent of a safari lodge? Or the terrace, where I enjoy the three-course meal with a delicious Sancerre by candlelight in the evening? I dont know.
Only one more time I leave to go snorkeling at the beach of Le Morne, a few miles away. A must on Mauritius. In the white motorboat, which brings us out to the reef, I meet Urs from Switzerland. I am impressed by the many colorful fish, but I am even more impressed by Urs. He's the first and only honeymooner I meet on my trip, and he tells me about his "honeymoon early bird discount" which he can afford to spend the week here. The only catch: He had to book a year before the wedding. Back in the "Lakaz" I immediately continue my search for the most beautiful place. It's not easy. I'll just have to stay a little bit longer.
Travel Info Mauritius
Mauritius is basically not a cheap destination, but with our tips you can make affordable holidays here
travel time Year round, from November to April very hot (30 degrees), from May to October temperate (20 degrees), from December to February is expected more rain, cyclone.
getting there Via Frankfurt with Condor from 734 Euro (www.condor.com).
phone The area code of Mauritius is 002 30.
On road There is a good public bus system, otherwise you can easily move despite the left-hand traffic off the very busy capital of Port Louis with the rental car. In addition to the well-known companies, there are cheap private landlord, z. B. Bon Car Co, day from 25 euros (Jean-Claude Boncoeur, 37, C Poivre Street, Beau Bassin, Tel. 465 28 01, E-mail: bon-car@intnet.mu ").Also bungalow rental and airport transfer.
Stay Since there are not many restaurants on the island and most of them are closed in the evening, almost all accommodations offer half-board. A good three-course dinner menu is standard.
A little paradise: the "Lakaz Chamarel"
La vieille cheminée. Charming wooden accommodation for up to eight people, surrounded by greenery. Anyone who wants can ride here; DZ / F from 90 Euro, riding 35 Euro / two hours (Chamarel, tel. 686 50 27, www.lavieillecheminee.com).
Lodge d'Andrea. Modern bungalows by the sea, with pool right on the cliffs; DZ / HB from 120 Euro (Rivière des Anguilles, Tel. 576 05 55, www.relaisdeslodges.mu).
L'exile. Dependance of "Lodge d'Andrea". Wooden huts in the hills overlooking a waterfall; Double room / half board from 120 Euro (see above).
Lakaz Chamarel. Dream lodge in a tropical garden with various sized bungalows; sometimes even with private pool, in the evening there is a great menu; Double / HB from 149 Euro (Piton Canot, Tel. 483 52 40, www.lakazchamarel.com).
Auberge Aquarella. Rooms and apartments by the sea; from 75 Euro / day (6, rue Sivananda Mahebourg, Tel. 631 27 67, www.aquarellamu.com).
Les Lataniers - Le Morne. Plant with eight studios near the beach; from 72 Euro / day (Tel. 450 52 99, latanier@intnet.mu).
Enjoy La bonne chute. Creole and French cuisine, main courses from 8 Euro (Route Côtière, Tamarin).
Le patio. Nice cafe in Port Louis with delicious cake (Le Caudan, Waterfront).
Sunset Cafe.Right on the docks of Grand Baie, overlooking expensive yachts; freshly pressed fruit juices! (Sunset Boulevard).
Le Bistrot. Cozy evening restaurant, many meat dishes z. Mixed grill or lamb, main courses from 10 Euro (Tamarin).
Le Chamarel. Open loggia at 400 meters above sea level, open only during the day. Main courses from 10 Euro, specialty: grilled king prawns (at the beginning of Chamarel, Tel. 483 64 21).
Barbizon. Simple restaurant in Chamarel, main courses z. Grilled fish from 7 euros (Sainte Anne Road).
Bistro Anvers. On the southern coastal road; Specialties fish / lobster, dishes from 8 euros (Perraquot Lane, Bel Ombre).
active Yanature. Yan offers ten different walking tours along the west coast, for about three to four hours, 40 euros per person, also available on short notice (tel: 785 61 77, www.yanature.com).
Indian Resort. Large hotel complex below the mountain Le Morne Brabant. Meeting point for water sports freaks, great sandy beach. Here is the surf club Mistral, 2 hours surfing including equipment cost 45 euros. Snorkeling / water skiing / laser costs 7 Euro / hr. Registration also on site (www.indianresorthotelmauritius.accommodation.io).
La Vanille Crocodile Park. Nice destination to see crocodiles, birds, monkeys and free-range giant tortoises (Rivière des Anguilles, Tel. 626 25 03, www.lavanille-reserve.com).
shopping Equateur. Young Mauritian fashion label with shops in Grand Baie and Port Louis. Nice, basic, good quality (Grand Baie, Sunset Boulevard, Port Louis, Le Caudan, Waterfront).
Curepipe. In this place in the middle of the island you can buy cheap clothes. In the Floréal Road are various shops (Magasin Floreal, Shibani Knitting), which offer especially knitting.
Port Louis. In the huge market hall of the Marché Central, there is everything! Mon to Sat 6am to 6pm.
Read Merian live !: Mauritius (126 p., 9,95 Euro).
info Aviareps Tourism, Sonnenstr. 9, 80331 Munich, Tel. 089/23 66 21 39, Fax 23 66 21 99, www.news-plus.net
