Italy: Aeolian Islands
For that, I tormented myself here? It is lousy cold, the wind whistles, it stinks to the sky, and there is nothing to see. Nothing at all. No firelight, no sparks, no lava columns. 150 meters from us seethes and spits the crater of Europe's most industrious volcano. The mountain is rumbling and thundering, as if to roar its famous name: "Stromboli." But his voice suffocates in the fog: the attraction of the Aeolian Islands hides behind a cloud wreath. We poke through the haze with acrid sulfur smoke in our noses and try not to collide with other hikers.
Stromboli
The Lipari archipelago is part of a volcanic chain between Etna and Vesuvius, here the African earth plate pushes over the Euroasian. Of course, infinitely slow. Twenty islands have emerged from the sea in the last 350,000 years north of Sicily, seven of which are populated: Lipari, Salina, Panarea, Alicudi, Filicudi, Vulcano and Stromboli. Every year, around 40,000 people haul themselves down the tireless volcano for three difficult hours.
"Madness", bawlers conservationists, and in fact the circus around the mountain is a piece of absurd theater. In the murky, cold soup at 918 meters, a man in swimming trunks sits, eyes closed, breathing deeply as if taking a healing steam bath. A couple of young Italians from Florence with skis in their luggage stumble through the dark swaths: They have come over the weekend for a descent on the volcanic ash. We freeze, wait in vain for a clear view and trudge insulted into the valley.
Love for sluggish island life
Most tourists move on the next day, we have been instructed by Signore Famularo. He is 92 years old and knows: It is worth staying. After all, he tried his luck in the big wide world. He spent three years in a foreign land, then homesickness drove him back to his nearly 13 square kilometer island, where the white houses of two tiny villages cling to the dark mountain.
There is no mass production in the Aeolian Islands. Beyond volcanic tourism, sluggish island life dawdles. In the harbor pubs rude guys thrash cards, the village youth makes the scooters howl, and Sunday night everyone goes to eat pizza. But if the speedboats spit visitors every hour, a wave of activity sweeps through Stromboli. Mountain tours and boat trips are touted.
Thinking in other dimensions
On the other side of the mountain, in Ginostra, the world is even further away. Thirty people transport everything they need to live with mules to their homes. Visitors coming by boat have to transfer to the village cutter on the open sea. Ginostra's harbor is too small for the "Aliscafi", the noisy hydrofoils.
Lipari
No wonder then that the islanders reverently call the largest congregation of their happy godforsaken world a "city". Lipari city on the island of the same name is the cultural, political and economic center of the archipelago and with 5000 inhabitants not really a metropolis suspect. In return, heartwarming southern Italian: loud, a little tart and yet charming. Lipari town has a mountain with a castle, five churches and an archaeological museum, one of the most important in Italy.
Another adventure is renting a car on Lipari. We wanted to see the hinterland of the largest island, the sleepy villages, the white mountains of the pumice quarry, the old hot spring baths of San Calogero behind a fence - the renovation of the bath has been going on for decades. There was exactly one car to rent on Lipari: it had barely any air in the tires and could not be locked. When we protested, the landlord borrowed his own car. In any case, most of the islands are best to walk or roar, following local customs, breakneck with scooters over narrow mountain and valley roads.
Panarea
Only on the smallest island of the volcano sisters, who are so different, there is a more elegant way of getting around: you can drive, from the harbor to the beach. Panarea is the luxury pearl of the Liparen. The houses belong to wealthy northern Italians or related celebrities such as Robert de Niro. Panarea is an optical pleasure. We day-trippers peek over walls, look forward to well-tended gardens and proud yachts anchored in the bay, and congratulate us in this environment for not having been on Vulcano yet.
Volcano
Because who was on Vulcano, stinks. Like hell, plague and sulfur. The second active volcano of the Aeolian Islands does not stage any aesthetic light shows, it sweats out the nasty smell of Mother Earth.Volcanologists find this much more threatening than Stromboli's regular fire magic.
Salina
The neighboring island of Salina, on the other hand, looks like a lovely paradise, lush and thriving. That's the way it looks when grass grows over fire-breathing mountains. Or better fern: On Monte Fossa, with 962 meters the highest point of the islands, the green expands in fat fields. All over the island, everything grows in excess, which the rest of the archipelago otherwise only sparse has to offer: broom, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, oleander. Here you are responsible for the specialties of the islands: Malvasia wine and capers. The famous bud is annually honored with a harvest festival in June.
Travel Info Aeolian Islands
Phone: Area code for Italy: Area code to Italy 0039, then dial 0 for the area code.
getting there
Flight to Naples. Continue by ferry. Faster and more expensive are the hydrofoils that run from the beginning of June to the end of September. It is cheaper to get to the lipars via Sicily. Fly to Catania, transfer by bus to the port of Milazzo, take the speedboat to the islands. Season from April to the end of October. Attention: In July and August, everything is booked early, and many hotels rent only rooms with half board (otherwise all prices per double room including breakfast).
Seven islands
Two names: Italian maps say "Isole Eolie o Lipari". Thus, the cartographers keep out of the dispute, whether the archipelago owes its name to the king of Liparo, or the wind god Aeolus. The Islanders think so: Whoever lives on Lipari says "Aeolian Islands", everyone else says "Aeolian Islands".
Salina
The greenest island. Idyllic villages, romantic views and in Pollara the most beautiful beach of the archipelago. Hiking paradise in the mountains. On Salina was shot "Il Postino", a touching film with Philippe Noiret.
Hotel Punta Scario: pretty house with fabulous sea view, from some rooms even on Stromboli (Via Scalo 8, 98050 Malfa, Tel. 090/984 41 39, Fax 984 40 77, July to September only half board). Hotel Bellavista: modern, comfortable, near the port, in the lively village of Santa Marina; the landlord is German (Via Risorgimento, 98050 S. Marina Salina, Tel./ Fax 090/984 30 09). Hotel L'Ariana: grand villa from the turn of the century with the most beautiful terrace of the island. Somewhat gloomy and in need of renovation in the interior, in the secluded village of Rinella you can enjoy complete tranquility (Via Rotabile 11, 98050 Rinella di Leni, Tel. 090/980 90 75, www.hotelariana.it. Nni Lausta: charming restaurant bar in a small shopping street, pasta, meat and fish dishes (Via Risorgimento 188, S. Marina Salina, Tel. 090/984 34 86). Ristorante Portobello: good simple fish restaurant overlooking the sea (at the port of Santa Marina Salina, Tel. 090/984 31 25). Mum Santina: A little hidden away in the alley with a small terrace and home cooking at its finest (Via Sanità 40, S. Marina Salina, Tel. 090/984 30 54, Fax 984 30 51, www.mammasantina.it).
Stromboli
The volcano rages day and night, but Stromboli has more to offer: tiny bays with fine black lava sand, boat trips to the mini-village of Ginostra and the bizarre lighthouse rock Strombolicchio. Albergo Ossidiana: Simple accommodation right on the harbor (Via Regina Elena, 98050 Stromboli, Tel. 090/98 60 06, Fax 98 62 50,;). The owner, an ex-pilot from Switzerland and volcanic explorer from Passion, also offers fully organized island trips, eg. Eg one week Stromboli incl. Boat trip from Naples, accommodation, breakfast and volcano excursion (Volcavento, Tel. 090/98 63 83, Fax 98 63 84, volcavento@stromboli.net). Hotel Villagio: pretty, winding, right on the sea. The room decor is simple, but there is a private beach (Via Regina Elena, 98050 Stromboli, Tel. 090/98 60 18, 98 61 61, Fax 98 62 58). La Locanda del Barbablu: small fine hostel in the middle of town. Antiques in the rooms, terraces overlooking the smoking mountain (Via V. Emanuele 17/19, 98050 Stromboli, Tel. 090/98 61 18, Fax 98 63 23). La Lampara: Huge, crispy pizzas are baked by handsome young men in the stone oven on the terrace; popular food station for large Italian families (Via Vittorio Emanuele, Stromboli, Tel. 090/98 64 09). Trattoria ai Gezi: The chef cooks pasta and fish specialties. Not very cheap but the small walk through steep streets is rewarded with a wonderful sea view (Via Vico Salina, Stromboli, Tel. 090/98 62 13). Il Malandrino: simple port restaurant with decent pizzas and entertainment factor, because you can watch the bustle around the adjoining ships (Via Marina, Stromboli, Tel. 090/98 63 76).
Panarea
The smallest of the inhabited islands resembles a fortress-like Nobel district in some village streets. Outside the high season, the uplift is hardly noticeable. Hotel Lisca Bianca: The bar-side bar with its many terraces is famous for its sweet croissants (Via Lani, Panarea, tel. 090/98 30-04, fax 98 32 91, www.liscabianca.it. Affittacamere Trattoria La Sirena: small friendly guesthouse near the beach with excellent cuisine (Via Drauth, 4, Panarea, Tel./Fax 090/98 30 12). Ristorante da Pina: The best meal of the island is concluded with a home-made liqueur (Via San Pietro, 98050 Panarea, tel. 090/98 30 32, fax 98 31 47).
Lipari
In the main town of the archipelago it is over with the Liparische Inselgtägheit: Here the life is raging, especially in the evening, when grandma and grandfather, parents and children, teenagers and teenagers stroll on the Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Beyond the only real city of the Liparen there are lonely bays and hiking trails. Albergo Penzione Neri: beautiful old villa in a side street of the Corso, friendly service, large breakfast terrace (Via Marconi, 43, 98055 Lipari, Tel. 090/981 14 13, Fax 981 36 42). Hotel Oriente: The entrance hall is a curiosity cabinet, the backyard garden an oasis in the urban bustle (Via G. Marconi, 35, Lipari, Tel. 090/981 14 93, Fax 988 01 98). Hotel Carasco: large hotel complex with daring curved pool terrace high above the sea. Dusty inside, but the owner pair makes up for it with exquisite friendliness (Porto delle Genti, 98055 Lipari, Tel. 090/981 16 05, Fax 981 18 28, www.carasco.it; Albergo Casajanca: Around an idyllic backyard nestles the small fine hotel in the seaside resort of Canneto (Marina Garibaldi 115, Canneto, Tel. 090/988 02 22, Fax 981 30 03). Residence Mendolita: simple holiday apartments in a newly built terraced house. If you book half-board, you will receive vouchers for the Filippino, the city's most famous restaurant (Via G. Rizzo, 98055 Lipari, Tel. 090/981 23 74, Fax 981 28 78). Ristorante Filippino: very good traditional restaurant on the city hill; (Piazza Municipio, Lipari, Tel. 090/981 10 02, Fax 981 28 78). Al Pescatore: cheap by self-service, so you are here for full and still finds specialties such as swordfish carpaccio (Marina Corta, Lipari, Tel. 090/981 15 37). Trattoria d'Oro: Locals swear by the simple pasta and fish restaurant meanwhile they have to share the few places with tourist groups (Via Umberto I, 28/32, Lipari, Tel. 090/9811304, Fax 981 25 91). Kasbah Cafe: The decor is Moroccan, the size of the pizzas Uritalienisch and the backyard garden in the evening very romantic (Via Maurolico, 25, Lipari, Tel. 090/981 10 75). Ristorante La Nassa: Gourmet address (menu from 50 DM) away from the hustle and bustle (Via G. Franza, 36, Lipari, Tel. 090/981 13 19, Fax 981 22 57, www.lanassa.it). La Piazetta di Nino Subba: the most famous pizzeria of the islands. The restaurant is papered with autograph cards, outdoor seats are hotly contested (Piazza Monfalcone, 98055 Lipari, Tel. 090/981 25 22, Fax 090/981 25 11).
Volcano
Mud treatments in the volcanic art, a bath in the heated sea - the island can be well explored in a day trip. Hotels are only available in the port of Porto di Levante and the beach settlement Porto di Ponente. The hinterland is worth a small scooter trip. Ristorante Bar Tony Maniaci: fresh fish, plain and simple, located on the beach (Vulcano Gelso, Tel. 0337/95 31 76 or 090/985 23 95).
Filicudi
Filicudi offers little beach, hardly any hotels and a lot of peace. Most visitors stay for just one day and visit the numerous caves and caves of the cliffs with excursion boats.
alicudi
A round hilltop clinging to a handful of houses, a hundred inhabitants, a few mules and a lonely pub leasing rooms to courageous tourists.
book tips
With humorous lyrics and a bit of meager service: "Aeolian Islands", DuMont. Informative, reliable, but dust-dry: "Aeolian Islands", Michael Müller Verlag.
info
Centro Servizi al Turismo, Via Maurolico, 98055 Lipari, Tel. 090/981 35 42, Fax 9813546; www.isoleturismo.it
