Downtown L.A .: a furious comeback

Some corners of the city center still look like Art Deco buildings, as in the 1920s.

© Christina von Messling

To be honest, Los Angeles is not pretty on every corner, but the city is working on it - and it has neighborhoods that surprise and thrill. Downtown, for example, was the densely populated center until the 1950s, when Americans learned to love the car, and those who could afford it moved into the countryside, mostly in a low-rise building with a garden and a pool.

"The City of Angels," as Los Angeles is translated, grew and grew, and today the 10-million-metropolis expands to around 1300 square kilometers. The typical for a US megacity skyscrapers shot only downtown in the sky, most of them as office towers. When the lights went out in the evening, it was like the neighborhood of a ghost town that scared them.

In recent years, however, the core of L.A. has been revived and redesigned. In the long-term orphaned Art Deco buildings, special hotels, shops and bars are now opening. Old lofts are converted into luxury apartments, which are occupied by people stinking of L. A.'s permanent damming. Downtown is pretty much the only part of the city where you can do without a car because of the (unfortunately dry) subway network of the metropolis - which more and more residents do. Incidentally, L. A. was founded in the 18th century by Spaniards who came to California; Spanish is spoken in the city, but not because of their descendants, but because of the high proportion of citizens from Mexico.

overnight stay

Unleashed by the rest of the world, the hours splash on the terrace of the hotel "The Ace".

© Christina von Messling

The Ace Hotel. The page at the entrance looks like a rock singer, the reception desk looks like a record shop. Although the design hotel first opened in 2014, it is already the "place to be" of downtown. It lies at the end of Broadway, and the most beautiful historic buildings of Art Deco and Neo-Gothic are gathered on the former magnificent boulevard - some of morbid beauty, some finely renovated. "Upstairs" is the name of the roof bar of the "Ace Hotel", which offers a great view of the turquoise façade of the most beautiful art deco building of L.A., the "Eastern Columbia". Double room without breakfast from 185 Euro (929 S Broadway, Tel. 213/623 32 33, www.acehotel.com).

Figueroa. From the restaurant to the garden to the Moroccan-style rooms, the hotel radiates the warmth of a family-run hotel. The rooms are small but charming. There's always something going on in the building opposite: the annual Grammy Awards are on the rise at the Nokia Theater. Since the stars do not stay in "Figueroa", the rooms remain affordable. Double from 145 Euro (939 South Figueroa Street, tel. 213/627 89 71, reservations at 800/421 90 92, www.figueroahotel.com).

restaurants

Organic or cheap? The Grand Central Market offers just about everything.

© Christina von Messling

The Fifty Seven. Brand new and already on everyone's lips: a gourmet restaurant in an old warehouse. The chef changes every three months the gastronomic concept, what remains are curious regulars. Main courses from 20 Euro (712 South Santa Fe Avenue, Tel. 213/816 81 57, www.fiftysevenla.com).

Americano. The lunchtime and dinner café is loft-style with many products coming from local producers. A sandwich for around € 7.20 is delicious, a menu even better (923 East Third Street, tel. 213/620 07 81, www.eatdrinkamericano.com).

Baker Mercat. Specializing in "Bäco", the restaurant specializes in flat, experimentally fanciful sandwiches from $ 8, but also offers hot Mediterranean food (408 South Main Street, tel. 213/687 88 08, www.bacomercat.com).

Grand Central Market. In the historic market hall of 1917, the old and new residents of Downtown - Latinos, homeless and trendsetters eat and shop in a somewhat bizarre harmony. The one stall sells blue-colored cream pies, the other organic vegetables, bull testes or chai tea (317 S Broadway, tel. 213/624 23 78, www.grandcentralmarket.com).

shopping

Apolis. Fashion with a socially committed approach must of course also look great in California, for example, leather flip-flops from Israeli-Palestinian handicrafts for 78 euros, fair-made organic cotton T-shirts from Peru from 38 dollars and beautiful alpaca woolen clothes, also from Peru (806 East 3rd Street, Tel. 213/613 96 26, www.apolisglobal.com).

Guerrilla Atelier. Pretty new and noble concept store in the Arts District of Downtown: selected fashion and home accessories from small luxury manufacturers. It does not cost anything to look at anything else, for example a set of four handmade plates from Five Zero, around 220 Euros (821 East 3rd Street, Tel. 310/365 21 94, www.guerillagalleries.org).

go out

333Live. If you want to know what the Underground of Downtown is doing after the night, you may not notice it. Marilyn Manson meets Ziggy Stardust. Data, events and locations at: www.333live.com.

Architecture for the ears

Outside hui, inside too: the Walt Disney Concert Hall.

© Christina von Messling

Walt Disney Concert Hall. So worth seeing is the shiny steel construction by architect Frank Gehry, so interesting is the music program of this concert hall: a new production of "Alice in Wonderland" with the Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra, concerts by Herbie Hancock and Arlo Guthrie (111 S Grand Ave, tel. 323 / 850 20 00, www.laphil.com).

Architecture tours. L. A. was founded in the 18th century, the architecture guides focus on the modern age. Laura Massino and her team showcase the finest examples in various locations, including Silver Lake and Downtown. Bookings and information at www.architecturetoursla.com.

The concept of "Café Gratitude" is so well received that there are already four cafés

© Christina von Messling

Silver Lake: Everything eco - and the home of Leo

The garden and bungalows are so homey that guests of the lodge "Los Feliz" want to take root

© Christina von Messling

If you live in these parts of the city, you can start the day with sports, a cup of Soya Latte or a vegan brunch. Vacationers can do the same - only maybe one, two hours later than the working population.

In Silver Lake / Los Feliz, you can go for a run around Silver Lake, the city's large water reservoir, cycle your way through twisting roads and green hills, or practice "sun salutation" in the sunshine. The beginning of the century hip, then run-down neighborhood where Hollywood star Leonardo DiCaprio grew up, has blossomed to the hippest address in the US - you can see that, and also says the magazine "Forbes".

Artists, designers, screenwriters, photographers and other creatives, many from Europe, have moved into the parade houses of mid-century modern residential architecture from Richard Neutra to John Lautner. And with them a casual lifestyle that loves vegan and vintage and of course looks good. The "village square" of creatives is Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica Boulevard intersect. Here you can meet on Saturday morning for shopping on the organic farmer's market, to stroll, brunch and to see and be seen. Big cinema.

overnight stay

The creative and the attractive live in this neighborhood and cross each other at Sunset Junction

© Christina von Messling

Los Feliz Lodge. There are few hotels in the residential area - this Spanish-style lodge offers lovely retro-style bungalows with kitchens and terraces. Lush green garden - and the popular Sunset Junction is ten minutes. Double room from 125 Euro (1509 N. Hoover Street, Tel. 323/660 41 50, www.losfelizlodge.com).

Restaurants & cafes

In the "Casbah Café" one crosses Mediterranean and Moroccan.

© Christina von Messling

Casbah Café. Right next to the trendy "Intelligentsia Coffee" at the Sunset Junction you get from breakfast to dinner good little things, some to the Mediterranean, partly to Morocco taste, such as pita sandwich with hummus for 5.50 euros. The curbside service provides drivers with food to the car window (3900 West Sunset Boulevard, tel. 323/664 70 00, www.casbahcafe.com).

Café Gratitude. The venue is located in Silver Lake's western neighborhood, Hollywood. Since Hollywood is basically sexy, even the food has to taste somehow sexy, especially the vegan cuisine. For example, the dish "Terrific" with marinated kelp noodles, teriyaki almonds, etc. for 11,50 Euro. Everything organic and from local farms. The unwritten rules include a tip of 20 percent (639 N Larchmont Blvd, Tel. 323/580 63 83, www.cafegratitude.com).

Desert Rose. In the restaurants and bars of Los Angeles smoking is prohibited even outside, one of the few exceptions: "Desert Rose". With its moody lit patio and a fire pit in the middle, the restaurant is the meeting place for smokers who like to eat well - exquisite Mediterranean cuisine with a Lebanese accent, delicious pizza, pasta and cocktails. A poem: the MinzLamm burger for 12 Euros (1700 N. Hillhurst Avenue, Tel. 323/666 11 66, www.desertroserestaurant.com).

shopping

At "Lawson Fennig" there is design for the apartment.

© Christina von Messling

Undefeated. The selection of sneakers and sneakers is unbelievable, such as by Converse or Vans. Here you can find really unusual models - in neon yellow or leopard. The prices for Vans / Converse start at 35 euros, limited editions can easily cost 160 euros (3827 West Sunset Boulevard, Tel. 323/668 13 15, www.undefeated.com).

Wasteland. Take a quick detour to Silver Lake's neighborhood, Hollywood: the gigantic vintage store on the Melrose Avenue shopping mall features authentically original designer fashion shoes, shoes and handbags at bargain prices, including brand-new looking wrap silk blouses by Diane von Furstenberg for $ 24 (7428 Melrose Avenue, Tel. 323/653 30 28, www.shopwasteland.com).

Scout. Here there are luxury brands secondhand and new fashion from regional designers. Under his label "Scout Collection" shopkeeper Joey Grana sells idiosyncratic pashminas from very high-quality Kaschmirresten (from 160 euros). You will also find extraordinary jewelery here (8021 Melrose Avenue, tel. 323/461 15 30, www.scoutla.net).

Lawson Fenning. Designers Glenn Lawson and Grant Fenning know how their clientele wants to live: in the mid-century modern style. They offer the matching furniture and accessories and take for a handcrafted designer table at least 1600 euros. A source of inspiration! (1618 Silver Lake Blvd, Tel. 323/660 15 00, www.lawsonfenning.com).

Malibus surfers never get tired

© Christina von Messling

Malibu: The sea is the star

© Christina von Messling

Nowhere else is Los Angeles so "laid back" and decelerated as in Malibu, the coastal town that feels one part of the city on the other hand, and lies in nature. Where the southern slopes of the Santa Monica Mountains run out and sensationally long sandy beaches stretch out in front of the Pacific, you can live extremely well - especially if you own one of the villas. One gets the impression that people spend much more time here in spas, boutiques and restaurants than at a workplace. As chic as the locations are here, so beautiful is the nature with its green, mountainous hinterland. And only the sea! In fact, it is at least as intoxicating as in the TV series "Baywatch - The Lifeguards of Malibu", which was shot in part on Zuma Beach and made the exclusive community on the Pacific Coast Highway known worldwide. Stars like Lady Gaga, Julia Roberts, Tom Hanks and Dustin Hoffman have settled here. Some live in waterfront beach villas with sweeping views of the ocean and surfers who are constantly searching for the best wave of their lives. A natural event is the wild El Matador Beach with its massive rock formations, from which you can often watch dolphin jumps. Wow!

overnight stay

Malibu Country Inn. The hotel is located right on Zuma Beach, one of Malibu's most popular beaches. Those who like to take a bath or go for a walk will appreciate the unpretentious rooms, if you want to drive to the city center every day, you should know that you need about one and a half hours each way. Double from 150 Euro (6506 Westward Beach Road, Malibu, Tel. 310/457 96 22, www.malibucountryinn.com).

The Malibu Motel. Newly renovated motel, where many surfers descend - balconies allow a clear view of the sea. However, instead of the waves you hear the sound of the Pacific Coast Highway, which runs directly in front of the motel. Double room without breakfast from 105 Euro (22541 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu, Tel. 310/456 61 69, www.themalibumotel.com).

restaurants

Where movie stars live and go, Detox is an issue - even in the "Malibu Farm Café" above the sea.

© Christina von Messling

Malibu Farm Café. A new spot at the far end of the 1905 built pier. Ecological and regional ingredients make the delicious, focused on Detox cuisine the meeting place mostly female guests with and without children. Apple and kale juice for around € 6.50, brunch, salads, quinoa cereals, light burgers ... (23000 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu, Tel. 310/456 11 12, www.malibu-farm.com) ,

Sunset. As the name implies, this bar-restaurant is the place for sunset watchers who like a fresh sea breeze and a well-blended sundowner. For happy hour drinks cost only 4 euros. A day at the beautiful Zuma Beach can hardly end better than here, where no car noise bothers. The kitchen specializes in seafood and good. On Thursdays and Fridays a DJ mixes the music (6800 Westward Beach Road, Tel. 310/589 10 07, www.thesunsetrestaurant.com).

Calamigos Ranch. In the hinterland of Malibu you can taste and buy Californian wines from Malibu winemakers (!). Or spend the whole day at the ranch. There are picnic areas, a boutique, and an organic restaurant (327 Latigo Canyon Road, tel. 818/889 62 80, www.calamigos.com).

shopping

Malibu Country Mart. In Malibu, shopping centers on this mall with a playground, small cafes, yoga and beauty studios and the extremely delicious Grom ice cream. Exclusive designers such as Lanvin, Chrome Hearts, but also casual-beautiful and cheaper beachwear and streetwear by Planet Blue (trousers from 50 euros) or James Perse are represented in various boutiques. Architecturally, the mall is modeled on a Mexican village (3835 Cross Creek Road, tel. 310/456 73 00, www.malibucountrymart.com).

Look at

Getty Villa. The oil tycoon Jean Paul Getty was built in the 50s at Malibu a Roman-antique villa and park. Today is the collection of antiquities of the J. Paul Getty Museum. A collection of modern art can be found at the second site in the mountains of Santa Monica: the Getty Center, now one of the most important art venues in the LA area.The Getty Villa is worth a visit for the garden architecture alone - admission is free , (17985 Pacific Coast Highway, Phone 310/440 73 00, www.getty.edu).

What you should know in advance

They spent the whole day on the beach - happy people!

© Christina von Messling

Traffic. Especially at peak times stuck car drivers for hours in a traffic jam. So you better do without a rental car right away? That would also be a time and nerve-racking adventure, because L. A.'s public transport network is confusing and very holey. So get on the bike? Not a bad idea, if you're used to traveling longer distances, most easily with a guide: Danny Roman and his team from "Bikes and Hikes" organize various cycling and hiking tours (from $ 44). And they also rent e-bikes (8743 Santa Monica Boulevard, tel. 323/796 85 55, www.bikesandhikesla.com).

Opening hours. Los Angeles is not the city of unlimited opening hours: small shops in particular do not operate daily or for twelve hours, some open at 11 am - check the website for safety's sake!

Phone. The area code for the USA is 001.

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