Côte d'Azur: From the train you can see better

Hardly any city courtes the train travelers as skilfully as Marseilles. Deeply she bows to each newcomer who steps out of the station, lies down at his feet to give him a first overview. The station pours travelers onto a magnificent flight of steps lined with stone lions and exotic princesses - a red carpet of 104 steps, long thought-out before the invention of the roller suitcase. Below, the Boulevard d'Athènes takes over the job of the receptionist, opens his arms and leads the guest into the street canyons: over the magnificent boulevard La Canebière to the Vieux Port, the harbor in the heart of the city. To the old town hill Le Panier, where soaps and chocolates are brewed in back rooms. Or to the Arab quarter Belsunce around the corner, where little boys emulate the footballer Zinédine Zidane, the big son of the city, until late at night. What a reception!

But the city has no heart for car travelers. As early as 1931, Klaus and Erika Mann wrote in their "Book of the Riviera" about Marseille: "The entrance to the car carries a slightly catastrophic character. [...] If it happens that you arrive between five and seven in the evening, it is especially devilish. " This has not changed in 80 years.

On my last trip to the Côte d'Azur, I saw little of Marseille beyond the bonnet of my rental car. I was stuck in traffic. As well as later on the coastal roads and in Saint-Tropez and in Cannes, wrong-parker tickets nullified my relief that I had found my car again. This time I want to experience the blue coast stress-free. Unhindered. By train. I let myself be driven along the Côte d'Azur for a few euros, from Marseille to Hyères to Nice, and then along the edge of fashionable beaches to over to Menton.

The train that brings us to the people reveals life beyond the boulevards. Photographer Urban and I want to shake off the journey to Marseille on a hike, so on Sunday morning we make a detour to the Côte Bleue, the down to earth little sister of the Côte d'Azur. As we leave the city in the sluggish railway gallop, she shows us her back: on the tracks, which meander westwards in the shadow of the highways, there are camping chairs with bent legs; on matchbox small kitchen balconies wet laundry lingers with satellite dishes. "Pardon, would you have an aspirin?" Ingrid and Marie - the skirts short, the slivers long - wink at us under black painted eyelids. After a good night, the friends drive back to their coastal town Sausset-les-Pin - sleep late! We have nothing against headaches, but Nathalie from the four-seat front right can help out; The teacher goes to her old father in Ensuès-la-Redonne to do a rounds with him on the water. "I'm always looking forward to the peace and fresh air at home," she says.

The train that teaches us to fly makes us sail across the sea like seagulls: As the city fades away in front of the window and the nature starts to move, viaducts carry us over bays with blue sparkling water. In between, we glide through white limestone mountains, in which only the fingers of lonely pine trees claw. We get off with Nathalie, but then follow the coastal path further west, uphill, downhill, through blooming places, in whose coves sail forests grow, then we climb hard along the surf over porous rocks, which look like on land washed giant sponges. We breathe: salt, algae, damp soil, figs, mallows, pistachios, broom and the wild asparagus that people snip here into scrambled eggs. It's clear that the finest perfumes come from this corner of the world.

The train that brings us to the Muse spits us out in places where artists and creatives once settled so many. In Sanary-sur-Mer we sniff after Thomas Mann and Aldous Huxley, in Hyères we move into rooms in the "Castel Pierre Lisse" - in the airy estate high above the old town once lived the New York writer Edith Wharton. "She was a great feminist," enthuses Pierre, who transformed the house into a fantastic chambre d'hôtes, packed with art and design. And tells that the "Time of the Innocence" author enjoyed partying with Man Ray, Buñuel and Dalí, who indulged in their art in the neighboring Villa Noailles.

A view into the blue from the "Jardin Exotique" in Eze

Despite the inexhaustible supply of rose on Pierre's terrace, we arrive early in the morning on a ferry, clinging to the stern waves clamoringly whispering - as if they really wanted to be on Wharton's favorite island of Porquerolles. Soon I see why: Like a tropical mirage, the island lies before us in the sea, hilly, jungle, with a colonial-style village. Did we land on Mauritius? In Madagascar? The pines, too, seem to think they are already in Africa, spreading their needle-roofs like umbrella acacia trees; involuntarily, my eyes search the green for monkeys. On land, however, we encounter only white doves. "They escaped from a wedding party years ago and settled here," says the bike rental company while checking the air pressure on our rental bikes. Not the worst place to settle, I think, as we bathe in turquoise in the perfect semicircle of the plague Notre Dame. As we collect pebbles, as white and smooth as mints. And as we cycle through tender green vineyards in the south of the island, where very emotional seagulls rule over a very rugged cliff: cackling, laughing, plaintive.

The train that gives us the silence takes us up to the Eagle's Nest villages of the Maritime Alps. With the Tendabahn, a slow train that connects Nice with Cuneo, we screw ourselves to heaven. 40-meter-high railway viaducts open up panoramas that motorists down there can only dream about. High up in the green Roya Valley, clouds nestled in the tree-tops, lost in the wind; They sleep until noon, it is so quiet. When we get hungry, we get out. In the mountain village of Saorge, Liddy serves us two pieces of Tarte au Citron in the small square in front of her Salon de Thé, before we lose ourselves in the medieval labyrinth of crooked stairs.

Cats sneak, roses smell, only the giggling splashing of the wall fountain can be heard. Hardly more than 50 kilometers and yet light years away from the fashionable coast. Too bad, but we have to go back to the train station - the last train leaves us in 20 minutes down to the sea.

Beauty in Pastel: The old town of Menton

The train that brings us luck mutates between Nice and Menton to the Metro with sea views: fast time, many stops, commuters, sunbathers, revelers. Briefcases are next to beach bags, Budapester next flip-flops. In Villefranche-sur-Mer we look through the train window on tanned shoulders and colorful fin rivers in the sea. In Beaulieuur-Mer, Ekaterina joins us, patissier at the legendary "Hôtel de Paris" in Monte Carlo. Like most of the 40,000 Monaco commuters, she takes the train because "the traffic jam is too dense and parking is too expensive." Shortly before Cap-d'Ail a lady with a white hat and immaculate legs asks the conductor for the way to the plague Mala. Urban and I change a look: beach sounds wonderful now! We jump out of the train and cling to the perfectly pedicured heels that balance on murderous wedge heels just to the beach where the Garbo is said to have sunbathed. Despite the narrow coastal path and surf breaking off the rocks, we get into conversation with Tiziana. With a charming rolling R tells the Sicilian of the villa with sea view, which she is currently referring to her boyfriend - he has gotten a job in the area as a yacht broker. But despite the villa and yacht boyfriend, she can not afford the 300-euro bottle of champagne that the young lesbian couple share at our next table in the beach restaurant "Eden Plage Mala". We treat ourselves to a glass anyway. With the memory of the last sip on my tongue, I sink into the deep red, sun-warm upholstery, close my eyes, listen to the waves. "Dolcefarrrniente!" Sighs Tiziana next to me - sweet idleness! Could someone please stop the time? Of course, no one can do that, and so does this journey come to an end.

After all, hardly a city dismisses the train travelers as skillfully as Nice. From the beach, it takes just 20 minutes to the Louis XIII. Station, sidewalks that scrub the Nice every morning with soapy water and dedication. In the station, the nice woman at the "La Panetière" stall sells first-class croissants to the Café au Lait. And "Professeur Hassan" from the Ivory Coast promises the traveler on the platform the blue of the sky: love, loyalty, money! Everything for a small fee, which is due only on success! I'll put Hassan's flyer in my wallet and remind him: if I lose my luck, I just have to get on the train - and follow the blue coast.

The best addresses on the Côte d'Azur

Eat well, sleep well, experience a lot: our tips for southern France's dream coast

Marseilles

Getting Around: Marseille Provence Greeters. Cosmopolitan Marseilles show holidaymakers their city - for a donation (22, Rue de Forbin, www.marseilleprovencegreeters.com).

Shelter: Au Vieux Panier. The six quiet Old Town rooms are designed by artists - new every year; charming roof terrace.DZ / F from 100 Euro (13, Rue du Panier, Tel. 04 91/91 23 72, www.auvieuxpanier.com). Pension Edelweiss. The Swiss Bernadette collects furniture - you can see that from the five rooms. Tip: No. 189 has a nice balcony to the courtyard. Only 2 minutes from Saint Charles train station. DZ / F from 85 Euro (6, Rue Lafayette, Tel. 09 51/23 35 11, www.pension-edelweiss.fr).

Enjoy: La Caravelle. Ideal to start the evening with an aperitif. For a drink with harbor views, delicious mise en bouche (artichokes, shrimp, dips) are served (34, Quai du Port, Tel. 04 91/90 36 64, www.lacaravelle-marseille.fr).

ID fixe. Sit outside Cours Julien on the beautiful square and enjoy homemade tapas (74, Cours Julien).

Le Charité Café. Cool retreat: in the courtyard of the Center de la Vieille Charité, coffee and snacks are served under arcades (2, Rue de la Charité, tel. 04 91/91 08 41).

Le Resto Provençal. The noble fish bouillabaisse, a Marseille invention, is too expensive for you? In the nice "Resto Provençal" there is "Filet de Dorade au Bouillabaisse" with toast and aioli for 13 Euro (64, Cours Julien, Tel. 04 91/48 85 12).

Patisserie d'Aix. Tunisian sweets to mint tea. Tue-Sun (2, Rue Aix, Tel. 04 91/90 12 50).

Shopping: Marché des Capucins. Cheap oriental market in the Noailles district (Place du Marché des Capucins).

La Chocolatière du Panier. People line up here for Michèle's seductive chocolate based on Uropa's recipes: with pastis, lavender, onions ... (4, Place des 13 Cantons, //lachocolatieredupanier.skyrock.com).

72% petanque. The real Marseille soap (made from at least 72 percent olive oil) is best bought at Philippe (10, Rue du Petit Puits, tel. 04 91/91 14 57, www.philippechailloux.com).

Côte Bleue

Getting there: Take the train from Marseille to Ensuès-la-Redonne (about 30 minutes, twelve times a day) and continue along the coast to Carry-le-Rouet or Sausset-les-Pins. Pack your bathing suit!

Enjoy: Pâtisserie Reynier. The small boxes full of amuse-gueules (mini pizzas with anchovies, savory biscuits with ham, goat's cheese and olives) are great for beach picnic; daily from 6am to 1pm and 3pm to 8pm, Sundays from 6am to 7pm (Avenue Joseph Arrighi, Carry-le-Rouet, Tel. 04 42/44 68 78, www.patisserie-reynier.com).

Sanary-sur-Mer

Getting Around:The station Ollioules-Sanary-sur-Mer is a bit out of the way; Taxi on Tel. 06 09/50 05 81; Bus 8807 goes towards the center, except on Sundays (www.varlib.fr).

Shelter: Hotel de la Tour. The family-run hotel on the harbor with excellent fish restaurant (Tue / Wed closed) was the first port of call for German exile rates.

Thomas Mann inhabited rooms 17th double / F from 80 Euro (24, Quai Général de Gaulle, Tel. 04 94/74 10 10, www.sanary-hoteldelatour.com).

Enjoy: Marché Provençal. Travel provisions are available on the market under plane trees at the Office de Tourisme. Daily until 13 o'clock.

Boulangerie Pâtisserie Avy Bernard. The "Tourtières de Gascogne", a specialty of puff pastry with pine nuts and fruit, are particularly delicious here (9, Rue Gabriel Péri, Tel. 04 94/74 13 05).

Look at: Chemin de la Colline. Beautiful walk from the harbor up to the villa district with the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Pitié and the villa "Moulin Gris" by Franz Werfel; The writer lived on the upper floor with the twelve windows, his wife Alma Mahler-Werfel had to stay down (37, Chemin de la Colline). Thomas Mann's villa "La Tranquille" was demolished in 1944 (422, Chemin de la Colline).

Hyeres

Getting Around: The Gare de Hyères station is about 1.5 km south of the old town; Taxi on Tel. 04 94/00 60 00, bus timetable at www.reseaumistral.com.

Shelter: Castel Pierre Lisse. Ice-cooled rosé with a view over Hyères and the sea: art, indulgence, pure hospitality! Five large designer rooms with breakfast from 100 Euro (1, Rue du Chateau, Tel. 04 94/31 11 18, www.castel-pierre-lisse.com).

Enjoy: Le Haut du Pavé. Young Provencal cuisine in the old town, z. B. "Choucroute de la Mer" (sauerkraut with seafood) for 20 euros (2, Rue Temple, Tel. 04 94/35 20 98).

La Belle Epoque. Mediterranean food. Be sure to try the strawberry mousse! (14, Rue de Limans, Tel. 04 94 00 68 26).

Maison Ré. The chocolatier next door sells excellent coffee ice cream (8, Rue de Limans). Le Baraza. Downstairs fine bistro cuisine, top cocktails. Tue-Sat (2, Avenue Ambroise Thomas, Tel. 04 94/35 21 01, www.baraza.fr).

Look at: Villa Noailles. The cubist house of the patrons Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles served the artists Buñuel, Dalí, Cocteau, Man Ray and Alberto Giacometti as a place of activity. Wed-Sun, admission free. In the park Saint Bernard at the foot of the villa Charles Noailles bred rare plants (Montée Noailles, Tel. 04 98/08 01 98, www.villanoailles-hyeres.com).

Island Porquerolles

Getting there: By bus 67 (www.reseaumistral.com) or by taxi (tel. 04 94/00 60 00) to the Giens peninsula to the port La Tour Fondue. From there the ferry will shuttle between 7.30 and 18.30 (19.50 Euro, www.tlv-tvm.com).

Getting Around: Le Cycle Porquerollais.Bicycles from 15 Euro / day (1, Rue de la Ferme, Tel. 04 94/58 30 32, www.velo-porquerolles.fr).

Shelter: Book better accommodation on Porquerolles several months in advance!

L'Auberge des Glycines. Eleven rooms behind blue shutters. Under the fig tree in the courtyard there are grilled sardines (15 euros) and warm goat cheese. Delicious! DZ / HB from 79 Euro / person, children free (Place d'Armes, Tel. 04 94/58 30 36, www.auberge-glycines.com).

Caption: Island Idyll: Porquerolles

Le Roustidou. Martine, fashion designer from Paris, rents out three rooms in her house. Breakfast in the garden. DZ / F from 98 Euro (17, Rue du Phare, Tel. 04 94/58 31 54, www.leroustidou.com).

Nice

Getting Around: The best walk, train station and accommodation are centrally located.

Shelter: Hotel Durante. An oasis near the train station: 28 pretty rooms surround a Mediterranean garden. Double room from 99 Euro (16, Avenue Durante, Tel. 04 93/88 84 40, www.hotel-durante.com).

Hotel Villa Rivoli. Closer to the sea? Behind the venerable "Negresco" stands the Belle Epoque Hotel of German Katja Reyes. Double room from 80 Euro (10, Rue de Rivoli, Tel. 04 93/88 80 25, www.villa-rivoli.com).

Enjoy: Restaurant La Mama. Local specialties such as Tourte de Blette (mangold cake) and Farcis (stuffed vegetables) in the old town (17, Rue Pairoliere, Tel. 04 93/85 70 85).

Excursion tip: Tendabahn. Train to the villages of the Maritime Alps. The "Train des Merveilles" (daily 9:05 from Nice Ville, 15 euros) goes to Tende (about 2 hours). In summer, from Saint-Dalmas-de-Tende, hikes to the high valley of the Vallée des Merveilles - to prehistoric rock carvings (www.tendemerveilles.com). More links at www.ter-sncf.com/Regions/paca/fr/

Eze

Getting there: Nietzsche Path. Already Friedrich Nietzsche has wandered from the station Èze Bord de Mer to the Eagle's Nest village Èze Village (1-2 hours); At the same time he wrote verses of "Thus Spoke Zarathustra". If you do not want to hike, take bus 83.

Look at: Le Jardin Exotique. Just for the most beautiful view over the Côte d'Azur from the cactus and sculpture garden, the climb to Èze (daily 9-18, 6 euros, Rue du Château) is worthwhile.

Enjoy: Le Nid d'Aigle. Ice cream, salads, snacks at the entrance of the Jardin Exotique under the 250-year-old mulberry tree (1, Rue du Château, Tel. 04 93/41 19 08)

Cap-d'Ail

Enjoy: Eden Plague Mala. Casual beach restaurant on the Plage La Mala. Thai chicken salad 19 euros. From Cap-d'Ail train station, take the beautiful coastal path west for about 15 minutes (Tel. 04 93/78 17 06).

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin

Look at: Le Cabanon. The Swiss architect Le Corbusier built his seaside holiday home in 1952 on the basis of the "Modulor": living takes place on an area of 3.66 x 3.66 meters. Ten minutes walk from Roquebrune-Cap-Martin station; or hike in an hour from Menton on the beautiful coastal path around the Cap Martin (visit on Tuesdays and Fridays after registration at Tel. 04 93/35 62 87).

Enjoy: Le Cabanon. Christoph's snack bar at Plage du Buse is within sight of Le Corbusier's "Le Cabanon" and next to the former beach villa by film producer Dino De Laurentiis. Three minutes from the train station.

K-Beach Club. Hipper's heading to the white-styled beach club on the neighboring Plage du Golfe Bleu, where chansonnier Jacques Brel once wrote his "Amsterdam" (Tel. 04 93/35 03 50).

Menton

Getting Around: The best walk, train station and accommodation are centrally located.

Stay: Hotel Aiglon. Belle Epoque hotel with pool that has seen better days. Double room from 75 Euro (7, Avenue de la Madone, Tel. 04 93/57 55 55, www.hotelaiglon.net).

La Petite Maison. Only Chambre d'Hôtes in the old town, two great rooms around a courtyard. DZ / F from 110 Euro (15, Traverse de la Rue de Bréa, Tel. 04 93/84 71 19, www.lapetitemaison-menton.com).

Enjoy: Le Marché envelope. In the Belle Epoque market hall there are fresh provisions: fruit, cheese, pies, pickles. Tue-Sun, 7-13 pm (Quai de Monléon). Saveurs d'Eléonore. On the restaurant terrace next door you can enjoy local specialties. Refreshing: "Kir Lavende", white wine with lavender syrup (4, Place du Marché, Tel. 04 93/57 60 00). Serre de la Madone. Between Lebanese cedar and Chinese royal lotus, the fine restaurant "Paris Rome" in the largest park in Menton serves cakes and snacks on weekends. Park: Tue-Sun, 10 am-6pm, 8 Euro; Bus 7 (74, Route de Gorbio, Tel. 04 93/57 73 90, www.serredelamadone.com).

Look at: Jardin Botanique du Val Rahmeh. Park of the eccentric Miss Campbell, who ordered birthday cakes for her cats from the pastry chef. Since 1905 a (sub-) tropical sea of plants has been growing here, one kilometer northeast of the old town. Wed-Mon, 6 Euro (Avenue St. Jacques, Tel. 04 93/35 86 72).

Musée du Bastion. The bastion restored by Cocteau by the sea houses some of his works. Wed-Mon, 3 Euro (Quai Napoleon III, Tel. 04 93/57 72 30). Further work in the new Musée Jean Cocteau Collection Séverin Wunderman. Mi-Mo (2, Quai Monléon, Tel. 0489/81 52 50). Cocteau, honorary citizen of Menton, also designed the wedding room in the town hall (Place Ardoïno, tel. 04 92/10 50 00).