Chalkidiki - all inclusive
A few minutes left. Bare feet rock in time with the rhythms that come from the amplifiers of the beach bar "Ethnik". Alexandros and his friends lie casually on the sandy beach of Tristinika in wide Bermudas, shoving their sunglasses in their hair and drinking beer. Dimitra and Elektra pluck their bikinis in position, and I look with them over the mirror-smooth sea to the horizon, where the sun stands as a glowing red ball a few inches above the water and prepares its great departure.
Alexandros and his friends left this morning with a few cars in Thessaloniki, only 90 minutes, then they were here. All are students, all in their early twenties. They have brought tents, as they always do when they go to Sithonia over the weekend. "Because there are the most beautiful bays here," says Dimitra. They set up the tents behind the bar under the pines. Tomorrow they want to continue, "maybe to Kavoroutribes beach on the East Coast or the Africafé at Vourvourou," says Alexandros and scribbles illegible directions in my notebook. Sithonia belongs to the peninsula of Halkidiki, which grows south of Thessaloniki from the north Greek mainland. She swims in the Aegean Sea like a gigantic octopus with three tentacles. The Greeks call these tentacles "legs" and each one has loyal fans.
Sithonia is the middle leg of Halkidiki - a mountainous headland densely covered with pine forests. There are a few smaller beach resorts here, campsites and only a single, somewhat disturbing Bettenburg. The coastline curves into many hidden bays - all small paradises for the urban youth, who can bathe, smooch and celebrate here without family supervision.
Since these beaches are not on any map, we find the Kavoroutribes beach on the east coast, from which Alexandros raved so much, the next day only because of the cars parked in the pine forest next to the road criss-cross under the trees. With our flip-flops we slip down a short climbing path into the sandy bay. The trees grow up to the water, and there we spread out our towels. Only a few plastic bags and scraps of paper disturb my view of this world of green and blue.
Everyone in Thessaloniki had been so enthusiastic about it. There we had started our trip to the Halkidiki a few days ago, and someone had given us in the evening in a bar the tip with the sunset at the "Ethnic Bar". Maybe it was the artist we met that night, the budding dentist with the great red curls, or the tattooed waitress who served us so nicely. Maybe it was in the "Elvis" with its 50s flair, in the "Flocafé" or in any other one of the countless bars on the wide promenade overlooking the sea. We do not know anymore, because our memories of the evening are blurry and the locals are numerous - with wide-open window fronts that let the salty sea air in and out of the music, onto the sidewalk, where in dense tangles more guests than inside stand together. We pushed our way through the crowd, drinking beer and Mojitos and forgetting the time.
Actually, in Thessaloniki, Greece's second largest city, we just wanted to take the rental car and then finally explore this extraordinary peninsula of Chalkidiki, which I had heard so often. But then we discovered the nightlife of the metropolis. This is not a classic beauty with its seven-storey blocks, the fully paved acacia alleys and Byzantine basilicas, whose unusual forms squat like landed UFOs in the modern sea of houses. But she is on the move. There were students everywhere who cheered, "You must go to Sithonia!" When we mentioned Chalkidiki.
Nevertheless, we did not go there so directly Instead, we took small roads that led us 100 kilometers through the little-known inland of Halkidiki to their eastern coast, to the easternmost of the three legs: Agion Oros, Holy Mountain.
Nobody warmed us about this area in Thessaloniki, perhaps because it is too quiet here: only a few villages, but softly wavy mountains and oak forests with silvery shining bushes. Red earth shines between olive trees, and broom bushes grow into the street with yellow flowers. Instead of other cars, we saw lemurs staggering through the balmy air, and we would have been able to go on riding for a long time had two policemen suddenly jumped out of the underbrush in front of the mountain village of Arnea. With a stern expression, they stopped us and demanded our papers. Their faces did not loosen until they tried to pronounce our surnames. "Hartmann" and "Rübesamen" - they started to laugh. As we parted we waved all four.
Probably the two were bored, because Arnea looks very much like it would manage without a police officer. The butcher was dozing with his hands folded and his mouth open beside his half-empty display case. Some old men were sitting in the cafe playing with their kolomboi, the typical rosary-like string of pearls that almost every man possesses here. A little girl hopped contentedly with an ice cream in her hand through the streets. In one of the old, restored wooden houses, we rented rooms smelling of polished wax and lavender. In the evening, we ate at the Taverna on Platia, the village square, along with some village keepers watching a football match on TV.
In Agion Oros, only 40 kilometers away, it became more lively. Campsites and apartment complexes mark the point where the easternmost leg of Halkidiki grows out of the hull. We jogged on the shore road towards the tip of the peninsula. We did not get far - just behind the town of Ouranopolis was on the border to the famous monastic republic of Athos. A barrier of gray stone wall and fences, repellent like a prison wall. In Ouranopolis, the great wave of day-trippers that travel because of the mysterious monastic state burns. In the streets restaurants with a photo menu and countless souvenir shops. A couple of monks are on their way, in long black robes and sandals, with their boxes and old suitcases, they rush to the 10.30 o'clock ship, which brings them and the pilgrims to the port of Dafni, the only place of entry of the republic.
We stood in the small shop of Christos, a young goldsmith from Thessaloniki, tried chains of beach finds and wondered about the hype. Because the entry into the monk's republic, which culminates in the 2,033 meter high Mount Athos, is difficult: women - even female pets - may not go in for almost 1000 years. The monks, about 2300 at the time, worship the Mother of God, and no other female being can compete with them. Therefore, every day only ten foreign pilgrims in possession of a precious visitor's permit have access.
The rest is just one of the organized boat trips along the west coast, where a clanking speaker's voice explains the 20 Orthodox monasteries clinging to the cliffs. But we had no real desire for it. We wanted to go to the "forbidden" Republic rather a piece. On a marked dirt road we walked along the sea to the south, where fences and warning signs warned us before entering the "Garden of the Mother of God". There we turned inland, followed a path into the mountains and entered a jungle. Starry flowers and purple thistles beat over our heads, a green snake with mysterious eyes slid past. It smelled of herbs, and in our ears boomed the tremendous buzzing of thousands of insects. We were all alone and suddenly understood well why the monks on the other side of the fence wanted to stay that way.
Nikos Katsanis, one of the few in possession of a permanent entry permit, keeps going there whenever he feels sick. "On the eastern shore, I'm looking for a spot on the water, thinking under the night sky, and the next morning, I feel good again," he says. With renewed vigor, the former television chef returns to Kassandra, the westernmost leg of Halkidiki, where he runs a successful restaurant in the village of Afitos. When we visit him a few days later, because we have enough of the beach life in Sithonia, the French doors of his restaurant are wide open, even though a thunderstorm blows the napkins onto the colorful stone floor.
Nikos' friends and relatives and toddlers sit at a large table next to the kitchen door. "No orders!", Nikos calls in our direction. "There is what there is." Then he flits back and forth between the kitchen and our table, picking up octopus risotto and fennel pie. Later he flambées veal testicles and presents them as a "traditional Greek specialty". Skeptically we reach for the fork - and are rewarded for our courage.
Afitos is a villageas it does not appear on any calendar image. No whitewashed cottages, no Aegean blue on doors and windows - Afitos is famous for its old, exposed stone houses and its cobbled streets, which are closed to cars in the evenings. Then the village youth chases a ball over the Platia, tourists stroll past or sit in the bars and cafes. Afitos is one of Kassandra's attractions. Otherwise, the western leg reminds Chalkidiki a bit of Florida: a bathing hamburg with hotels of all sizes, miles of sandy beaches and popular with package tourists. Many loyal fans have Kassandra but also in Thessaloniki, which is only 60 kilometers away. On weekends, families with children furnish the beaches with umbrellas, plastic chairs and cool boxes. Many have purchased a weekend home here, but the need does not seem to have been met. Pretty row house settlements are being built, sometimes during the day the building dust is in the air.But when it has disappeared, small oases come to light: on the beach of Sani are the bungalows of the luxurious "Sani Asterias Suites", surrounded by Bougainvillea cubes with sea view terraces. On padded teak loungers on the private beach of the "Asterias Suites" we experience the last sunset of this trip. Next to us two women, the bottle of champagne, which stands between them on a small table, is almost empty. The two arrived in the Porsche from Bulgaria and enjoy their holidays - from Sofia to Sani it is about as far as from Munich to Lake Garda.
At this moment, we miss our Thessaloniki students a bit. Fortunately, one can choose to Chalkidiki yes: between the student life on Sithonia, the somewhat more contemplative on Athos and the luxurious on Kassandra.
Travel Info Halkidiki
Thessaloniki
Stay The Tobacco Hotel. Old tobacco manufactory, from the outside rather unadorned, inside all the more noble design. DZ / F from 98 Euro (Agiou Dimitriou 25, 54632 Thessaloniki, Tel. 23 10/51 50 02, Fax 53 07 11, www.davitel.gr).
Capsis Bristol. Elegant and sumptuously restored old post office in trendy Ladadika, just a few steps from the sea. DZ / F from 270 Euro (Oplopiou & Katouni Str. 2, 54625 Thessaloniki, Tel. 23 10/50 65 00, Fax 23 10/51 57 77, www.capsishotels.gr).
Nea Metropolis. Simple guesthouse in a nice old building. You live in colorful painted rooms with stucco ceilings, Resopalmobiliar and small bathroom. DZ / F from 55 Euro (Sygrou Str. 22, 54625 Thessaloniki, Tel. 2310/52 55 40, Fax 53 99 10, www.neametropolis.gr).
Enjoy Zithos. Modern Greek cuisine, brisk audience. Nice to sit outside on the trendy Katouni Square (Katouni 5, Tel. 23 10/54 02 84).
Thalasses. Seafood like shellfish risotto and grilled xifias (swordfish) are served on giant design plates. The restaurant is completely white styled and is located directly on the waterfront (Leoforos Nikis 3, Tel. 23 10/23 31 73.)
Gonia tou Merakli. Sympathetic tavern directly at the local vegetable market. Especially popular as a lunch meeting (Odos Angerinou 3, Tel. 2310/28 77 26).
go out Comfuzio, The best thing about this bar is the view: From Kastro you can see the whole city and the sea (Leoforos Ochi 2, Tel. 23 10/96 05 62).
Elvis, If you love the 50s, this is the place for you. In the evening, changing DJs perform (Leoforos Nikis 21).
On the Road. Classic pub in the cabin style without tables; whoever comes here, clings to his beer glass (Leoforos Nikis 61).
shopping Market. Fruit and vegetables, clothes and cleaning supplies, herbs and wickerwork - on Thessaloniki's market in the partly covered streets to the left and right of Aristotle Street, there is almost everything that one needs for Greek life; open daily until about 14 o'clock.
Degmatina Eidi. Small boutique with beautiful, hand-embroidered suede bags in warm colors (Mitropolitou Gennadiou 9).
Hinterland Halkidiki
Stay Archontiko Mitsiou. Waxed wood floors, open fireplace, antiques: The community of Arnea has restored a traditional old mansion and furnished it as a guest house. So comfortable, that you do not want to move out again! DZ / F from 70 Euro (GR-63074 Arnea, Tel. 237 20/227 44, Fax 228 77).
Camping Olympias. Simple but clean campsite under German management. Quiet location just outside the village, the beach is just a few steps. Overnight from seven euros per person (Olimbiada, Tel. 237 60/513 84).
Enjoy Nostimo. Simple little tavern on the Platia of Arnea, in which the bearded host supplies the bachelors of the village in the evening with stuffed peppers and souvlaki (Platia, Tel. 237 20/224 04).
shopping Tsantali, Greece's most famous wine and ouzo producer invites to tasting and selling at its headquarters. Especially recommended is the red wine "Mount Athos", which has grown in the monastery republic and tastes wonderfully intense (Agios Pavlos, Agion Oros, Tel. 239 90/761 00, Fax 239 90/614 66).
Agion Oros
Stay Skites. Bungalow complex in a beautiful garden by the sea, just a few hundred meters from the Athos border. The pool is a gem. Also: organic vegetable garden, delicious cuisine and warm Greek-German owners. Double room / breakfast from 100 Euro (GR-63075 Ouranopolis, Tel. 237 70/711 40, Fax 713 22, www.skites.gr).
Pyrgos. Original, futuristic tower construction with rather simple rooms. You can cook in two kitchens that guests share. The beach Alikes is ten minutes walk away. Double room from 40 Euro (Periosi Limani, Amouliani, Tel. 23 770/510 86).
Enjoy Kritikos. Large, modern restaurant in the tavern district of Ouranopolis. Excellent grilled octopus, seasoned with olive oil from our own press (tel. 237 70/71 222, www.okritikos.gr).
Janis. Inside neon lighting, outside a large terrace just above the small harbor of Amouliani, where you can enjoy the Athos view for delicious appetizers (Tel. 237 70/513 22).
go out Savana. This beach bar in Amouliani should immediately become a favorite place for the good music, the great fruit cocktails and the brightly painted toilets (Alikes Beach, Amouliani, Tel. 237 70/511 22).
Ammos. Especially young people meet in this lounge-style coffee house with a beautiful terrace at the old defense tower (Embankment, Ouranopolis).
shopping Christos. Very likeable goldsmith who makes beautiful, original jewelry from materials like silver, coconut and beach finds. Just the thing for tanned summer skin! (Main street, Ouranopolis).
Do not miss Cap Fotis. The excursion boat departs the west coast of the Athos Peninsula twice a day, between May and October, twice a day, giving you a very good view of the monasteries. The journey takes three hours. 16 Euro per person (Athos Sea Cruises, Ouranopolis, Tel. 237 70/710 71, www.athos-cruises.gr).
Sithonia
Stay Thalatta Village Camp. Beautifully situated campsite on the sweeping sandy bay of Kalamitsi with pine grove, beach bar and charming operator. Camping site from 7,50 Euro (Kalamitisi, GR-63072 Sithonia, Tel. 237 50/414 10, Fax 414 12, www.thalattacamp.gr).
Olive House. Simple, pretty apartments in a private house with a beautiful garden. Quiet location, barbecue, the gravel-sand beach is two minutes walk. Apartment for two persons from 30 Euro per day (Elia Beach, GR- 630 88 Nikiti, Tel. 237 50/812 34, Fax 46 44 57, www.olivehouse.gr).
Guesthouse Parthenon. Beautifully restored mansion full of antiques. Especially charming: the room with open fireplace in the bathroom! DZ / F from 50 Euro (Parthenonas, Marmaras, Tel. 23 750/722 25, //en.agrotravel.gr).
Assa Maris. Spacious hotel complex with pool, wide sandy beach and fantastic Athos view. Lots of entertainment, sports and children's program. Just the thing for the classic beach holiday with family. DZ / F from 90 euros (Agios Nikolaos, Tel.237 50/92 15 14, Fax 92 155, www.assa-maris.gr).
Enjoy Tonis. The insider tip in the no man's land south of Porto Carras is almost freshly caught fish, but also just as delicious roast pork (Agiou Kyriaki, Marmaras).
Taverna Parthenon. The grilled meat over open fire tastes best on the large viewing terrace. The schnauzbärtige host also sells homemade honey and ouzo from his own distillery (Parthenonas, Tel. 23750/713 49).
Vasilis. Nice fish tavern in the seaside resort Metamorfossi with solid kitchen, friendly service, ouzo drinking locals and remarkably well-kept toilets (Tel. 237 50/612 26).
go out Ethnic Bar. Beautifully located on the long beach of Tristinika. Drinks, deck chair rental, house music, frequented by mostly young people, open day and night. Behind the bar, a Souflaki griller will satisfy your hunger after a long sunbath.
beaches On the little busy west coast road, which leads from Porto Karras to Galini, one passes a row of small, romantic and nameless sandy bays.
Kalamitsi. Located on the south coast, the sandy bay is framed by rocks, green hills and crystal clear waters.
Kavoroutribes-beach. Small, crescent-shaped dream bay on the east coast, two kilometers behind Sarti.
Cassandra
Stay Sani Asterias Suites. You should save urgently to treat yourself to a few days in this luxury. The resort is located on the seafront, the grounds are so spacious that guests are driven by electric carts for diving, tennis or the spa, the herbal massage or the "Sun Preparation Treatment". The largest pool serves the best breakfast buffet in Greece. Junior Suite from 198 Euro / person (Sani Resort, GR-63077 Kassandra, Tel. 237 40/994 00, Fax 995 08, www.saniresort.gr).
Enjoy Sousourada. "Wagtail" has named former TV chef Nikos Katsanis his favorite restaurant in Afitos. Creative cuisine, many guests from Thessaloniki. Advance booking advisable (Afitos, Tel. 03 74/916 94). - Rementzo. Host Jorgos Grigoriou used to be a fisherman. His specialty: Mousmoulia, a large-eyed deep-sea fish, fresh from the grill (63077 Afitos, Tel. 237 40/913 74).
Tomata. The most original of the 16 taverns and restaurants at Sani Resort. You sit on the terrace overlooking the marina with English honeymooners and Bulgarian porschefahrer and eat fried feta with watermelon-mint sauce and sole with ouzo dressing (Sani Resort, Tel. 237 40/994 00).
go out Porto Valitsa. Open-air bar of the hotel of the same name, beautifully situated above the sea. The long journey is well worth it - you do not want to leave anyway (63085 Paliouri, Kassandra, Tel. 237 40/920 07, Fax 204 05, www.portovalitsa.gr).
Lithos. Here you can enjoy cool drinks and Greek music in a small garden, ideal for a rest after dinner in the historic center of Afitos (Afitos, tel. 237 40/915 66).
shopping Charoulla. A small bakery where you can buy wonderful, still warm olive and raisin bread and delicious stuffed lemon biscuits (Afitos).
Do not miss Sousouras. The two Germans Kathrin Matsos and Lutz Breuer organize off-road tours on Enduros on Kassandra. If you do not have a motorcycle license or would rather move a bit more, you can also rent a mountain bike. Day trip 25 Euro, enduro from 35 Euro, mountain bike 10 Euro (main street, Kriopigi, tel. 694/820 77 95).
beaches Afitos. The sandy beach is below the village. Shallow water, ideal for children, deck chair rental. - Glarokavos. This beach is located on the east coast, below Pefkohori, is about three kilometers long and offers enough space even in high season.
Blue Bay. Finest sandy beach at Chroussou, Caribbean blue water and, very nice, no noisy beach bar.
General
getting there With Air Berlin from many German cities to Thessaloniki, each way from 51 euros plus fees (www.airberlin.de).
phone Area code for Greece is 00 30, then the area code without the zero.
Read Chalkidiki - Thessaloniki. Short and sweet with many good tips about the peninsula and the city of Thessaloniki (Merian live, 9.95 Euro).
info Greek Tourist Board, Directorate Germany, Neue Mainzer Strasse 22, 60311 Frankfurt, Tel. 069/257 82 70, Fax 257 827 29, www.gnto.gr.
