Care against aging
Against aging - substances from the operating room come in cream
Whether professional peels to improve the complexion, padding with filler materials or paralysis of facial expressions by injecting with nerve poison - What is successfully used in doctors' practices is now "translated" into the cream pots. The new care against aging is getting closer and closer to dermatological territory. At least as far as the promise of action is concerned - many are positioning themselves as a "gentle alternative" to going to the doctor. After all, women are also looking for ever faster and clearly visible results from cosmetic products.
Peels for a younger complexion
Chemical or mechanical peels are becoming increasingly popular. Micro-dermabrasion already ranks number two in the US for non-surgical facials against aging. No wonder then that the cosmetics giant L'Oréal commissioned its researchers to develop a similarly effective peeling for home use. The result was a fructose-based cream containing 20 percent alumina crystals. These tiny emery particles are much harder and more irregular in shape compared to cosmetic peeling products. When applied in a circular motion to the surface of the skin, they smoothen effectively and thoroughly.
However, every scrub also reduces the self-protection of the skin barrier. The facial skin is then drier than before and especially sensitive to UV light. To prevent possible damage, the new peeling cream is sold together with a moisturizer, which is then applied. It has a suitably high sunscreen (SPF 15) and contains neither color nor fragrances that could irritate the skin ("Refinish" set of L'Oréal). The exfoliation can be used up to twice a week. However, this only applies to normal and oily skin. For sensitive and dry skin types, one application may be sufficient every two to three weeks. The peeling cream of the Swiss luxury brand La Prairie works in a similar way. Extracts of freshwater pearls and fine diamond dust are added to the crystal crystals used. With three differently hard essays that are screwed directly onto the tube, you can "sand off" the face as well as the body and even areas with persistent calluses ("Cellular Microdermabrasion Cream" by La Prairie).
"Line Peel" is the name of the new anti-aging treatment from Biotherm, which does not rely on mechanical removal of the horny cells, but prefers the "dissolving" variant. The cream contains an active ingredient mix of fruit and salicylic acid (alpha and beta hydroxy acid) as well as a substance that loosens the cell cement between the horny cells in order to be able to remove them more easily. Together, they should ensure that the skin surface is continuously renewed and dry scales do not even attach. The cream does not contain UV filters and can therefore be used in the evening. If necessary, simply apply additional UV protection during the day. Already on the market in the USA, we have only announced for the coming year a four-part exfoliating set from Lancôme ("Resurface Peel"), which also works with a fruit acid (glycolic acid).
The new anti-aging? completely relaxed against wrinkles
The neurotoxin Botox irritates beauty researchers already longer. But of course it should not be used in cosmetics. An at least similar effect is tried to be achieved with an active ingredient, the doctors actually use against teeth grinding and excessive sweat flow (hyperhidrosis). "Argireline" is the name of the tiny molecule that consists of six amino acids. Intended cosmetic effect: not to inhibit the contraction of muscles (as in Botox), but to inhibit micro-tension of the skin fibers (fibroblasts). Because the more relaxed the skin, the less quickly fine wrinkles can form - despite pronounced facial expressions.
In order to optimize the anti-aging effect, some companies combine the relaxing effect of their products with strong moisture binders. For even more effect, it is also offered as an intensive treatment in several steps: Sans Soucis recommends dabbing first a high-dose serum on areas with facial lines and applying the day cream ("Relaxolution High Relax Gel" and "Relaxolution 24h care"). ). Similarly, the concept of the company Basic Energy with ampoules and skin care cream ("Perfect Skin 24h Super Moist" and "Power Lifting Effect ampoules") works.
Lierac developed an eight-day course program consisting of small, gel-like active agent pads and a fluid. The pads contain the fabric "Argireline" in high concentration.With the help of a pair of tweezers, they should be placed precisely on the places in the eye, forehead and nose area, which are particularly susceptible to wrinkles. The fluid (with 15 percent hyaluronic acid) is then dribbled over and massaged in until the pads dissolve and penetrate the skin ("Exclusive Solupatch" and "Exclusive Fluide Révélateur"). Pure hyaluronic acid, a substance often used by doctors for injections, is generally considered to be a tolerable and effective skin conditioner. As an essential component of the connective tissue, the acid can bind a great deal of water due to its sponge-like structure (about six liters per gram per gram) and is therefore biotechnologically used in anti-aging creams to smooth wrinkles (eg in " Diadermine Fold Expert 3D "from Schwarzkopf," Anew Clinical Anti-Wrinkle Intensive Serum "from Avon," Bio-Performance Super Lifting Formula "from Shiseido," Advanced Recovery Concentrate Cell-Refining Cream "from Kanebo).
Mend Genetic Weaknesses
Although 99.9 percent of the genetic material in all people is identical, there is still enough potential for effective anti-aging measures in the remaining 0.1 percent. According to recent studies, the genetic predisposition determines whether our skin cells can react better or worse to harmful environmental influences. That's why Estée Lauder developed the "Future Perfect" day cream to compensate for any potential weaknesses. Of course, this does not directly affect the genome, the researchers have chosen a much clever way: To increase the repairability of the skin, certain ingredients of the cream trigger a kind of "false alarm", the cells pretend that a "damage" would be immediate imminent. This leads to an increased alertness. If too many free radicals are actually being dipped up, the skin's own defense mechanisms have already been formed and do not have to be slowly boosted.
Care with UV protection
In order to bring the caring helpers to the place of action, the so-called "vector technology" was developed. With the help of lipids and proteins, the cargo should now be delivered exactly where it is really needed: antioxidants and energy sources, for example, directly into the cells, fats and moisturizers into the surrounding tissue. Also included: a high UV protection. Daniel Maes, Research and Development Manager at Lauder: "If it were up to me, any anti-aging day cream would have a SPF of 15!" After all, this is the most important measure against premature skin aging.
The latest news from wound healing
As an extremely complex structure, our skin has a whole host of natural mechanisms to regenerate itself. Over the years, this repairability is unfortunately slowing down and incomplete. Therefore, it is not so outlandish to equate aging skin with injured tissue. Bringing the delayed healing process back on track improves the appearance of the skin in the long term. Reason enough for the cosmetic researchers, dermatological experts for wound healing to take a closer look.
Are there any ways to signal the skin to repair faster? The Oil of Olaz researchers said yes and used a study from the National Institute of Health in Maryland, USA, for their new anti-aging cream. There, scientists had discovered a particular peptide (the body's own protein building block), which is considered the key to human skin regeneration. It acts as a kind of mediator between the cells, coordinates the healing process and accelerates the formation of elastic fibers. In a slightly modified form, this peptide is now together with vitamins and green tea extract in the "Regenerist" -Pflegelinie.
Overall, the amino acid peptides are currently emerging as the stars in research. A tripeptide (copper) used in the "Visibly Young" series by Neutrogena has been known for some time. What's new is the combination of copper extract with zinc, magnesium and the tried-and-tested anti-aging active ingredient retinol, the gentle precursor of vitamin A (eg in "Skin Transforming Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Care"). In interaction, the three minerals plus retinol should cause faster cell renewal and increased production of collagen in the deeper tissue layers. Although retinol is by far not as irritating to the skin as the vitamin A acid used by doctors for acne, the skin may initially tingle when applied (anti-age creams with retinol: eg "Ultimate Anti-Age Perfection"). Line of Lancaster, "Sisleya Global Anti-Age Extra-Riche" by Sisley, "Revitalift day" of L'Oréal).
Anti-aging: the outlook
And how do doctors react to the ever-shrinking cosmetics industry? At the moment, they are looking for gentler anti-aging methods. For example, "mesotherapy" is being discussed at conferences. In the process, strong moisture binders, vitamins, proteins or immunostimulating substances such as echinacea are injected into the tissue with an injection gun (as in vaccination). And anti-aging expert and dermatologist Prof. Volker Steinkraus will soon be launching his own skin care line.
