Normandy: Holidays in the land of plenty

In Normandy, the most beautiful gardens grow

When the three women come out from behind a boxwood hedge and stop in front of the poppy flowers with ecstatic faces, reality returns. I am sitting near a fence made of chestnut trees in front of a pond and have forgotten the world for a while. All around me nothing but grasses, which every breeze turns into a meditative, rustling sea - the here and now can be so easily forgotten. Only when I hear the voices of the three, I realize again, where is my Zen corner: in a garden. One of the beautiful gardens of Normandy that I discovered during my weeklong pleasure trip in the north of France.

Enchanting: In romantic Chambre d'Hôtes in the countryside, such as the farmhouse "Aux Pommiers de Livaye" in the Pays d'Auge, you can forget the time.

Sylvie and Patrick Quibel call their Norman piece of land "Feather Garden". A work of art of wildly luxuriant flowers and ornamental grasses, which enchanted me and the three women as light as a feather. And the many other visitors who put their entrance fee into a bird's nest on a wooden table, roam the China reeds, walk through beds of fiery red lilies and over carpets of cranesbill, wondering how they approach their own bit of greenery at home could transform so wonderful.

The Quibels began their miracle "Jardin Plume" in Normandy 14 years ago, on a simple meadow over one hectare in size. "That's nothing special," says Sylvie. "We have perfect weather, the climate is mild, even palm trees grow in sheltered places, we only shape what nature gives us."

This extraordinary nature is one of the reasons why Parisians are so into Normandy, Less than two hours by car from the capital, they have made this metropolis the "green arrondissement" of the metropolis. If you can afford it, go here for the weekend. I can understand it.

Green meadows under a wide sky. Cornfields lined with poppies. Over a hundred parks and gardens where yuccas grow next to roses next to camellias. Gentle hills, in the middle of the Seine, which flows in sweeping loops on steep banks, riparian forests and swamps. Until she arrives at the sea and disappears forever in the sparkling water.

Sandy beaches in front of marble white cliffs

Fantasies of stone: Like an elephant holding its trunk in the water to drink - that's what the writer Guy de Maupassant saw the famous chalk cliffs of Etretat.

Over 600 kilometers long, the Normandy coast is between Le Tréport in the northeast and Mont Saint-Michel in the southwest. "La Manche", "the sleeve" between the Atlantic and the North Sea, splashes on the almost marble-white cliffs of Etretat and floods the wide beaches of the west coast. The sand in the endless dunes of Carteret feels warm and soft and holds you with invisible hands, and the sun lets the beach grass light up like golden yellow torches.

The light has lured the artists into Normandy

Magical: Mont Saint-Michel rises above polders and salt marshes. The most beautiful is a visit early in the morning - if the tourist buses have not arrived yet.

Is it because of this light that everything looks so much gentler here than in the south of France? No yellow is just yellow, no blue just blue, and the sky is constantly changing its face - a picture that never stops. "Every day I discover even more beautiful things, it's maddening," said Claude Monet 145 years agowhen he stood and painted on the coast of the English Channel for a summer. He has captured the colors of Normandy and scattered his paintings throughout the world.

Renoir, Sisley, Pissarro, Jongkind: Many Impressionists have set up their easel in Claude Monet Land. "There are no artists working here today," says Véronique Devoldère, "who paint in their ateliers in Paris." She sits at the harbor of Honfleur and stretches her feet in floral sandals across the broad steps of the Vieux Basin. But there are still many exhibitions. In a few days one will open, also with pictures of Véronique. The painter loves the idyllic coastal town, the narrow centuries-old houses, the wooden church of Sainte-Catherine, the salt store, which looks like a fortress. "Because life is so different from Deauville and Trouville," she says.

The two known seaside resorts are the big sisters of Honfleur - the Normandie in chic so to speak. There you sleep in beautiful Belle Époque villas, shop in Hermès and Louis Vuitton boutiques, today a concert, tomorrow a horse race, the day after tomorrow a film festival.

It is quiet in the villages of Normandy

churches: Romanesque, Saint Sauveur at Saint Germain-des-Vaux

It is quieter in the villages. Sometimes so quiet that it hums in my ears. In Saint-Etienne-la-Thillaye, in the hinterland of the coast, the streets are empty, not even a dog barks in a front yard. In Beaumont-en-Auge there is a deserted-looking church, it smells of incense, of cool, damp air, of thousand-year-old stones. Between the villages, the hedges on the roadside have almost grown together into domes, to a bewitched labyrinth under a high blue sky. This area seems to have fallen out of time. Gnarled apple trees, as if old women were stretching out their knobby fingers. Half-timbered houses, stables, farms, crooked by wind and weather.

The family of Madame Lambert has lived for centuries in such a farmhouse with a sweeping tiled roof and dark beams that run through the facade like stripes on a Sunday dress. "Come in." Small and round, with apron in front of her stomach, Madame greets me. She leads the way to the salon, where her treasures are stored on a shelf opposite the fireplace: homemade goose liver pate, calvados terrine, jam made from all sorts of fruits.

Normandy is the pantry of France

Normandy is also the larder of France, famous especially for its three Cs: Cider, the lightly alcoholic beverage made from up to 17 different varieties of apples, calvados, an apple brandy made from the finished cider, and of course Camembert. This wonderfully creamy raw milk cheese tastes particularly good when made from the milk of the brown-white spotted "Vaches Normands" and "Pieds Noir" cows.

Her cider is stored in the cellar by Marie-Josette Lambert. The sip I try has nothing to do with the lovely porridge I've drunk so far. Dry and sweet and a bit bitter is the cider, it dances on my tongue.

In the past, farmers also found their income in the sea - on "pêche à pied", fishing on foot. When the water retreated and uncovered the mussel beds, they ran with rakes and pitchforks on the mudflats to harvest the fruits of the sea. Today, especially gourmets make their way at low tide, for example, in front of the Île de Tatihou almost at the northern tip of Normandy at Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, whose port is known for its oyster beds.

A couple scraping in the sand for cockles, a man with flat cap and basket looks for oysters. Just like me. Pocket knife in hand, I search the boulders. When I try the first and make a face, the Norman must laugh heartily. "First drain the seawater," he says, "otherwise they will taste too salty."

Rinsals flow between the roughly washed stones and furrow the floor. Scream gulls. In the distance, the sea shimmers. I run and run. Until I only hear my feet on wet sand and lose my thoughts in the watt. And in another world.

Our travel tips for Honfleur

Honfleur lights up: especially in the evening, when the lights go on in the many bistros and bars in the old harbor.

Absolutely try. Calvados, cider and apple juice from the old-established Apfelhof are sold by Agathe Letelliers in their Cidrerie Manoir d'Apreval. From 14th July to 31st August guided tours and tastings, four euros (Pennedepie, tel. 02 31/14 88 24, www.apreval.com).

In the delicatessen shop Gourmandises Normandes There is an abundant selection of terrines and pies, cider and calvados, cheese, sea salt and honey (6, place Pierre Berthelot, www.facebook.com/gourmandises.normandes.honfleur).

Pamper yourself. Creative cuisine at its finest: Alexis Osmont served in the L'Endroit z. B. Veal tongue on curry-onion puree or sea bream on zucchini mousse and fennel confit. Three-course meal from € 26 (3, rue Charles-et-Paul-Bréard, Tel. 02 31/88 08 43, Tel. Www.restaurantlendroithonfleur.com).

Look at. Some very beautiful pictures of the early impressionist Eugène Boudin and other artists who painted in Normandy are in the Le Musée Eugène Boudin to see (rue de l'Homme de bois, place Erik Satie, www.musees-honfleur.fr).

Stay. The townhouse Le Clos Bourdet with terrace and private garden is located in a quiet side street. The owner Fan Osmont lives out her passion for design in her four walls and provides her guests with a sumptuous breakfast. Double / F from 145 Euro (50, rue Bourdet, F-14600 Honfleur, Tel. 06 07 48 99 67, www.leclosbourdet.com).

Our travel tips for Normandy

Half-timbered houses: The tour through the old town of Honfleur takes one and a half hours - and they are worthwhile.

The most beautiful hotels in Normandy

For centuries, the half-timbered farm Aux Pommiers de Livaye in family ownership. Perfect to forget the time. Cows, horses, goats and ducks are bred by the plump Marie-Josette Lambert on her farm in Pay d'Auge. In the house she loves it romantically - she has decorated her five guest rooms with floral blankets and lace curtains.It is best to book one of the two rooms in the house and not in the annex, they have more comfort. DZ / F from 92 Euro (F-14340 Notre Dame de Livaye, Tel. 02 31/63 01 28, //bandb.normandy.free.fr).

Waves, spray and far sky - im Le Landemer is luck very close. At the foot of a cliff above the ocean, just a few kilometers west of Cherbourg, is the small stone house. The rooms are decorated with simple wooden furniture and look so pretty that you immediately feel more than satisfied. Two have a wonderful sea view. Those who do not get one of them, enjoy the "Vue Panoramique", the panoramic view of the waves of the water, the endless sky and the white clouds that wander over the horizon. DZ / F from 62 Euro (Village Landemer, F-50460 Urville-Nacqueville, Tel. 02 33/03 43 00, www.le-landemer.com).

Paradise garden included. Sniffing roses, sitting under palm trees or banana trees: In the splendid garden of the Hôtel de France Guests like to drink their espresso in the afternoon. But nature also takes control of the hotel at the entrance - an age-old fuchsia climbs up the facade and lets its flowers hang down in cascades. The rooms: rather simple, but friendly. The breakfast: very good. Double / Double from € 77 (20, rue Maréchal Foch, F-50550 Saint-Vaastla- Hougue, tel. 02 33/54 42 26, www.france-fuchsias.com).

The Le Manoir de la Roche Torin has that certain something: weathered granite stones, an old chapel and a beautiful park. Silence. Only among the old trees a squirrel rustles in the foliage. Until the gravel crunches - at the end of a long dirt road, the mansion is located in the bay of Mont Saint-Michel. The decor is modern, but the rooms are not very spacious. Unforgettable: the dream view of the Abteiberg of St. Michael, which stands out almost like a mirage of mudflats and meadows. Double room from 90 Euro (La Roche Torin, F-50220 Courtils, Tel. 02 33/70 96 55, www.manoir-rochetorin.com).

Surrounded by apple trees, a grove and a garden Country house "La Reserve". The sun dabs small stains on the mantel, the gold-framed mirror and the red sofas, while hostess Valérie Jouyet pour the tea. The six guest rooms of the Chambre d'Hôtes are furnished with antiques, rich fabrics and great taste. A highlight: the breakfast with croissants, home-cooked jams and coffee and tea from silver jug. DZ / F from 100 Euro (chemin blanche, F-27620 Giverny, Tel. 02 32/21 99 09, www.giverny-lareserve.com).

The best restaurants in Normandy

Christine Follet:Even gourmets from Germany order their delicacies.

Solid French cuisine is available in the L'Auberge du Prieuré Normand. In addition to the "Tarte fine" lamb, the roast beef is highly recommended. Four-course meal € 27 (1, place de la République, Gasny near Giverny, tel. 02 32/52 10 01, //aubergeduprieurenormand.com).

The creperie Le Triskell offers small treats for hunger (or appetite) in between. Sweet crepes from 3 Euro, salty from 8.50 Euro (21, rue des Teinturiers, Îlot des Teinturiers, Tel. 02 31/22 15 81).

One of the best restaurants in Cotentin is this Les Fuchsias. Of course, everything from the sea tastes particularly good, including the scallops, the specialty of the Normans and in the "Fuchsias" also served as a salad. Or the sea bass on risotto with a Parmesan froth. Three-course menu 29 Euros (20, rue du Maréchal Foch, 50550 Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue, Tel. 02 33/54 42 26, www.france-fuchsias.com).

Many fresh delicacies prepares the every day Charcuterie Nicolas Burnel in front. The quiche and tuna tart are ideal for a picnic. For dessert, take a bag of cherries or apricots. Attention: Lunch break from 1 to 3 pm (4, place du Vieux Clocher, Gatteville-le-Phare, tel. 02 33/54 00 12).

The terrace is nice, the menu well arranged, the food simple - and really good. Le Racine is a small restaurant and is also popular with locals. Three-course meal during the day 15, in the evening 18 Euro (rue du Haut, 50440 Saint-Germain-des-Vaux, Tel. 02 33/52 64 61, www.restaurant-leracine.com).

Scene restaurant and bar at the same time that is La Cale at the West Coast. Only a handful of dishes are on the menu. The winner: mussels with chips for 12 euros. And host Rémy entertains the guests with amusing chats. You can sit at the wooden tables for a long time (La Plage, 50560 Blainville-sur-Mer, Tel. 02 33/47 22 72).

Already in 1888 Annette Poulard has the restaurant La Mère Poulard made acquainted with their cooking skills. It is famous for its "Omelettes de Mère Poulard". An absolute event: the salt marsh lamb. Three-course meal at noon 35, in the evening 45 Euro (Grand Rue BP 18, Mont Saint-Michel, Tel. 02 33/89 68 68, www.lamerepoulardcafe.fr).

Exactly the right place for a "little black man" or a cider is that Café du Coiffeur, in a half-timbered house in the picture-book village Beuvron-en-Auge. Incidentally, guests are allowed to bring their own food and eat it at the restaurant (Tel. 02 31/79 25 62).

Tips for sightseeing in Normandy

Fondation Claude Monet The house and the garden of the painter in Giverny, unfortunately, a freeway leads through the flowers, the complex is crowded most of the year - and still worth a visit (84, rue Claude Monet, www.fondation-monet.com).

Bayeux Museum A must - the famous, 70-meter-long tapestry from the 11th century; It is best to walk slowly along the tapestry with information headphones (rue de Nesmond, Center Guillaume Le Conquérant, Bayeux, www.tapisserie-bayeux.fr).