Holiday in the village
Vejer de la Frontera - White village with a wide view
"Relax. You've found us", stands at the simple front door to the "Hotel Escondrijo". This makes sense because the house translates as "hiding place", located in Callejón Obscuro ("dark alley") and a city map in the heart of the alleyways of Vejer only provides rough clues. The ancient city palace impresses with its patio and large terraces overlooking a white sea of houses. Vejer is already a stroll along the city walls and through the incredibly winding streets an Andalusian picture-book beauty. Pink bougainvillea slosh over tiled roofs, palms cast sharp shadows, and without the distinctive spiers of the former parish church Divino Salvador, one felt transported to an oriental medina. In fact, the Moors in this part of Andalusia kept very long, as the addition "de la Frontera" in many place names refer - they were all on the border with the reconquered areas of the Catholic kings. The fact that Vejer despite its 13,000 inhabitants still looks very village, is due to the fact that everyday life in the newer district a hill continues to play - in the narrow streets of the old city center rages at most a naughty moped driver. Just a few kilometers from Vejer, the Fundación NMAC sculpture park is worth a visit: around 20 works by international artists (including Marina Abramovic and Sol LeWitt) in a pine forest.
Accommodation: Hotel Escondrijo. DZ / F from 85 Euro (Callejón Obscuro 3, Tel. 956/44 74 38, www.escondrijo.com).
Casa Rural Leonor. With fantastic roof terrace in the middle of the old part. Double room from 45 Euro (Calle Rosario 25, Tel. 956/45 10 85, www.casaleonor.com).
Hotel La Casa del Califa. Townhouse with Moorish decoration, magnificent terrace. DZ / F from 70 Euro (Plaza de España 16, Tel. 956/44 77 30, Fax 45 16 25, www.lacasadelcalifa.com).
Calella de Palafrugell - Wild coast, soft colors
The pink cottage perched on a boulder? Or rather the towel-thin in bright yellow with a balcony directly over the beach? In Calella, it is hard not to dream of a second home on the Costa Brava. Colors like soft ice cream, bright white in between. Fine sandy bays, rather deep than wide, nestle against the bright rock and offer bathers easy access. Calella faces the sea, which is best seen from one of the promenade cafes. Here the flambéed cocktail Cremat (rum and coffee) is served. With about 500 inhabitants, the village consists of little more than the long beach promenade, which is interrupted by a secluded place, some apartment buildings and the connecting road to Palafrugell. A wonderful walk: the coastal path to the neighboring villages Llafranc and Tamaríu.
Accommodation: Hotel La Torre. Extensive terraces and rustic rooms in blue, charmingly located on the coastal path. DZ / F from 87 Euro (Passeig de la Torre 26-28, Tel. 972/61 46 03, Fax 61 51 71, www.hotel-latorre.com).
Hotel Sant Roc. Great terrace high above the sea, bright rooms with z.T. wooden carved beds. Double room from 95 Euro, sea view room only with HB, from 160 Euro (Plaça Atlàntic 2, Tel. 972/61 42 50, Fax 61 40 68, www.santroc.com).
For campers: the family-run place "Moby Dick" on several terraces above the village center and beaches can be reached in ten minutes on foot, per person / car / small tent each 3.80 euros (www.campingmobydick.com).
Santillana del Mar - The place of the three lies
Six syllables that are in itself: Santillana del Mar is neither holy ("santa"), not at all ("llana") and is not located directly on the sea ("del mar"), but a few kilometers inland , Nevertheless, one can believe the inhabitants, if they of Santillana as one of the most beautiful cities (this status has the 1000-soul-place since the Middle Ages) rave in Cantabria on the northern Spanish coast. Founded in the 9th century, completely listed since 1943. In the evening, the facades of the noble houses shine in the warm sunlight, discovering the medieval details of the facades and the lavishly decorated with flowers wooden balconies. Quiet, because the center is pedestrian area. Santillana is also a good location for visiting the seaside resort of Santander, just 30 minutes away by car - and, of course, the perfect copy of the famous Altamira Cave, opened in 2001, which has only been accessible to specialists for years. The art professors who created the "Neocueva" worked as well as they did with the same materials and tools that the creators of the paintings used 14,000 years ago, and even imitated rock bumps, the living expressions of bison, horses, wild boars and reinforce deer.
Accommodation: Hotel La Casa del Marqués.Palace of the first Marquis of Santillana, spacious rooms with purple carpet and four-poster bed, old wooden beams on the ceilings. Double room from 120 Euro (Calle Cantón 26, Tel./Fax 942/81 88 88, www.hotelcasadelmarques.com).
Casa del Organista. Very close to the Plaza Mayor, wonderful views, individually decorated rooms with bold colors and partly small wooden balconies. DZ / F from 77 euros (Calle Los Hornos 4, Tel. 942/84 03 52, Fax 84 01 91, www.casadelorganista.com).
Cudillero - Rough charm on the Atlantic
On the wooden counter is the glass, a good meter above it, the bottle floats, from the barman in a mix of arrogance and self-confidence, the Asturian cider Sidra foam into the vessel - the golden drink that tastes like you have a mild autumn afternoon in Bottles filled. After a few glasses of Sidra rolls the name of the 2000-inhabitant town on the Costa Verde in the local dialect quite easily from the tongue: "Cuideiru", a singsong with many vowels. Like the language, the mood on the "green coast" of Asturias differs considerably from the Spanish clichés of sun-drenched expanses and whitewashed villages. Close together the narrow houses behind the tiny harbor, as if one stood on the shoulders of the other, between their bright yellow, blue, pink or green-washed facades flashes the gray rock. And when it gets dark, the lights of the houses shine like an amphitheater over the black Atlantic spilling in the harbor basin. Cudillero exudes a raw charm that is reminiscent of Scottish coastal nests - and forms an enchanting backdrop for the fish restaurants at the harbor in the evening. The beaches are all a bit out of the way, particularly beautiful is the high quartz cliffs surrounded Playa Gueirúa.
Accommodation: Hotel La Casona del Pío. A few steps from the harbor, rooms partly with natural stone walls and a rustic touch. Double room from 55 Euro (Tel. 985/59 15 12, Fax 591519, www.arrakis.es.
Hotel Casona de la Paca. Villa from 1877, elegant rooms with period furniture and beautiful tiled floors, large garden full of magnolias and oaks, about a kilometer outside the center. Double room from 86 Euro (El Pito, Tel. 985/59 13 03, Fax 59 13 16, www.casonadelapaca.com).
Baiona - bathing under the castle
So small, so tight, so inconspicuous! Yet on March 1, 1493, there was no more proud ship than the caravel "Pinta," whose replica is now a floating museum in the port of Baiona. After months of hard work, when hardly anyone had expected to return home, brought the "Pinta" news of the discovery of America. The inhabitants of Baiona were thus the first Spaniards who knew of the new continent of miracles. And even then, the "Pinta" anchored within sight of the imposing fortress, which had been built in the 11th century to protect against the neighbors from Portugal. Today you can enjoy a stroll through the flower-adorned castle walls on the lively beach, which owes not only many summer guests, but also some unsightly apartment buildings to the 10 000-inhabitant town in Galicia. In the old nucleus below the Fortaleza, Baiona, with its curvy cobblestones and squat houses, still looks as medieval as Captain Martín Alonzo Pinzón has just anchored. He probably had the local specialties taste just after his triumphant arrival: rare barnacles and fresh oysters, prawns of all sizes and types of preparation.
Accommodation: Parador of Baiona. Inside the old fort walls, great Atlantic view. DZ / F from 120 Euro (Tel: 986/35 50 00, Fax 355076, www.parador.es, Pontevedra province).
Hotel Tres Carabelas. Old stone house in the center, simple rooms. DZ / F from 45 Euro (Calle Ventura Misa 61, Tel. 986/35 51 33, Fax 35 59 21, www.hoteltrescarabelas.com).
For campers: Place Bayona Playa right on the beach, www.campingbayona.com, per person / tent / car each about 6 euros.
Espot - Wonderful water
Sparkling glittering glacial lakes, bubbling streams, springs and waterfalls - in the National Park d? Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici in the Pyrenees, it flows and splashing everywhere. The 300-inhabitant village of Espot, located at 1318 meters altitude on the white foaming mountain river Rio Escrita, is the ideal starting point for tours to the "winding waters", as Aigüestortes translated means. Its old, built of irregular stones houses spread around the village church, in the upper area are still a few rustic farms. A medieval watchtower and massive Romanesque bridge are reminiscent of the days when Espot slept secluded from the rest of the world and visiting the neighboring village of Sort was a laborious day's journey. A narrow road leads to four kilometers to the entrance of the park. From there, it takes about an hour to climb up to the lake of Sant Maurici - and on countless hiking trails through a mountain landscape, the highest peaks reach almost 3000 meters. In the pure mountain air of the Pyrenees, every stone looks like freshly scrubbed, every pasture lush green, every lake like a mirror, and above it circle golden eagles - an idyll like the peaceful meadowland of the hobbits.And as in the fairy tale, a strikingly jagged double rock, the approximately 2700 meter high landmark of the national park, "Els Encantats" - the haunted ... If you like it quite rustic, you can spend the night in one of the five mountain huts in the park, located next to the town Refugi Ernest Mallafré by the lake of Sant Maurici (Tel 973/250118). But beware: Even in summer it can be cool here.
Accommodation: Hotel Saurat. In the middle of the village, pleasantly spacious, but rather simple rooms with lots of wood. DZ / F from 100 Euro (Plaça Sant Martí 1, Tel. 973/624162, Fax 624037, www.hotelsaurat.com).
Hotel Rocablanca. 16 rooms in reed and slate tones with wooden floors, in-house sauna, jacuzzi and gym. DZ / F from 84 euros (Carrer Església s / n, Tel. 973/624156, Fax 624157, www.rocablanca.net, also rafting trips, horseback riding, canoeing etc. are organized).
local: The restaurant of the "Hotel Saurat" is a good address for good mountain cuisine (lamb, kids), the "Juquim" on the main street serves local cuisine, menu about 20 euros.
Shopping: Can you buy happiness? In Sort, that's what many Spaniards believe. Because the town located about 20 kilometers south of Espot has already cleared several times the main prize of the Spanish lottery - a lot of the local branch La Bruixa d? Or ("The Golden Witch") promises shopping with added value. Sort means good luck in Catalan
Agua Amarga - Beautiful Desert
Miles of unspoiled beaches - a dream for speculators who have already paved the Spanish Mediterranean coast plentifully. At the Cabo de Gata near Almería, the conservationists were able to do them a trick: since the Cape region was declared a national park in 1987, it can only be built within existing local boundaries. And that is why Agua Amarga has remained exactly what it was: a fishing village with 200 inhabitants at the mouth of a dry valley into the sea. Translated, the name means "Bitter Water", and yet there is no sweeter village in the African-inspired semi-desert of Cabo de Gata. Light beige as well as the sand are the limestone cliffs in the area, particularly charming in the secluded bay of Cala de Enmedio, which can be reached in half an hour on foot or on a slope. A car is especially recommended here - to visit the other villages of the Natural Park, to observe the flamingos in the salt flats of the Cape or to learn about the history of the rain-rich, bird-rich region in the documentation center on the road from Almería to San José. Or to cross the dusty slopes to the decaying estate of Cortijo del Fraile, the scary original scene of Federico García Lorca's "Blood Wedding" - and return in the evening to the homely atmosphere of Agua Amarga.
Accommodation: Hotel El Tio Kiko. White cubes on the hillside, rooms noble-rustic with wood accents and terracotta floors, terraces to the sea. DZ / F from 150 euros (Calle Embarque s / n, Tel. 950/138080, Fax 138067, www.eltiokiko.com, also through the hotel association www.rusticae.es to book).
Pension Mikasa. Charming boutique hotel with romantic garden, small spa (Turkish bath, massages). DZ / F from 110 Euro (Carretera de Carboneras s / n, Tel. 950/138073, Fax 138219, www.mikasasuites.com or www.notodohoteles.com).
local: Also a nice little hotel, but above all a tip for excellent French menus under 20 euros is the "Pensión Family" on the outskirts. About 1.5 kilometers outside Carboneras, "La Chumbera" offers ambitious Spanish-Catalan cuisine, e.g. Monkfish with mayonnaise of citrus fruits 18 euros, beef fillet with grilled vegetables 16 euros.
Directly on the village beach of Agua Amarga you can taste in the "Restaurante Playa" in the open air seafood and paella for 15 euros. Specialty: Andalusian rice dishes, also with lobster.
Shopping: The colorful accessories from India and Indonesia in the "Tienda Poco Loco" go well with the relaxed atmosphere of Agua Amarga.
Grazalema - Bergidyll for speleologists and fitness freaks
Black pigs bustle one's feet, goats climb nimbly into the trees - on the hike to the "Salto del Cabrero" above Grazalema, the natural park near Ronda becomes a rural mountain idyll. And as a paradise for free climbers, mountain bikers and speleologists who find the best conditions in the rocky karst landscape of the Sierra de Grazalema. Even road cyclists use these barely traveled mountain roads of Andalusia for training. Grazalema nestles in a deep valley. The square Plaza España forms the center of the 2180-inhabitant village: children play football, old men talk on the iron benches. Who is used to the late Andalusian mealtimes, has to switch to Grazalema: Here you sit quite at half past eight at the table and eat hearty as homemade sausages, stews or game dishes. A fortification for the next day of hiking, during which you also get to know a biological special feature of the Sierra, in winter, incidentally, the rainiest region in Spain: Only here and in the north of Morocco grow the "Pinsapos".Attention: For some routes you need a pre-approval (at the information desk at the Plaza or over the hotel), in midsummer sometimes even an authorized guide.
Accommodation: Hotel Peñón Grande. Well-kept rooms in friendly, warm colors. DZ / F from 53 Euro (Plaza Pequena 7, Tel. 956/132434, Fax 132435, www.hotelgrazalema.co).
Hotel Puerta de la Villa. Traditional house in elegant creamy tones with wrought-iron accents next door. DZ / F from 85 Euro (Tel. 956/132376, Fax 132087, www.grazhotel.com).
local: The restaurant "Cádiz el Chico", located in Plaza España, is famous for its roast pork. Daily menu about 10 euros.
In the "Bar Zulema" in a narrow street around the corner you can put together a delicious tapas menu: e.g. spicy potatoes, fried fish or homemade sausage for about 4 euros per plate.
Shopping: The tourist information office (Plaza España) sells typical regional products such as hand-woven sheep's mantles ("mantas"), ceramics, strong cheeses and "Pinsapar" honey on the first floor.
Covarrubias - songs for relaxation
Nowhere is Spain prouder than in Castile-Leon - the many castles (castillos) gave the area, which is considered the heart of Spain, its name. Not unusual, then, that even a place of barely 700 inhabitants has an impressive tower from the 10th century, a similarly old, repeatedly converted collegiate church and many magnificent mansions. Covarrubias probably got its name from the caves "cuevas rojas" dug into the red soil, which are even more common in this area. Lean half-timbered houses lean against the ancient cobblestones, crooked streets open up into pretty squares - in Covarrubias the Middle Ages can be seen on every corner. For the pilgrims, the village was a must stop on the way to the Santo Domingo de Silos Monastery, 17 kilometers away, where you still have the feeling of being outside of space and time. That's when you hear the Gregorian songs at nine in the morning. Anyone who comes to vespers in the evening at 19:00 and then experiences one of the famous Castilian sunsets, is lost anyway.
Accommodation: Hotel Arlanza. Right in the center, stylish, spacious rooms in a restored townhouse, z. with beautiful old ceiling beams. Double room approx. 60 Euro (Plaza Mayor 11, Tel. 947/406441, Fax 400502, www.hotelarlanza.com).
Hotel Rey Chindasvinto. Somewhat plain, at the church. DZ / F about 55 Euro (Plaza del Rey Chindasvinto 5, Tel. 947/406560, Fax 406534, www.sierradedademanda.com).
local: Both hotels have quaint restaurants, especially the "Arlanza", which also hosts medieval dinners on Saturdays (make reservations!).
"Restaurant Del Galo", in an old Posada; Wood oven dishes (around 13 euros) and the typical stew "olla prodrida" (12 euros).
Shopping: In the Santo Domingo de Silos Monastery there's the Gregorian chants on CD.
Additional Information:
Spanish Tourist Office Myliusstraße 14 60323 Frankfurt Tel. 069/72 50 33 Fax 72 53 13 www.spain.info
