What do you need for perfect winter holidays? Thick flakes!

And they are no longer everywhere. We were in Serfaus, in the Val d'Isère and on Spitsbergen - because there you can rely on one from November to April: a lot of white.

1. Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis, Tyrol (Austria):
And everyone is happy!

As far as the eye can see, you see: a lot of snow - despite the glorious sun shining in the bright blue sky. It is an Alpine winter landscape as if from a picture book, because the Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis ski area is one of the most pronounced snow holes in Tyrol, indeed, in all of Austria. Although less would be enough for the fun on the slopes here, they eventually lead across meadows and not, as elsewhere, over rocks. That's why you get along quite well even with only 40 centimeters.

As painted: Happy, who is allowed to pull the first track in the snow

© Günther Standl

On the 2828 meter high Masnerkopf, the westernmost point of the ski area, from which you can look up to the Zugspitze in the northeast and to the Ortler in the southwest, it snows many meters every winter, here you even drive in March still on natural snow. Wonderful, and quite demanding, because at Masnerkopf there are only a handful of fairly steep red slopes and the very steep black downhill, for which one must be able to drive so athletic, that they usually have it for themselves alone.

Learn to ski plus sausages and Kaiserschmarrn

My husband and I joined Masnerkopf almost every day while our sons were on the ski course. Every morning at 10.30am and every afternoon at 1.45pm we dropped her off for two hours each on "Murmli's Kinderschneealm" - and for a week had three really happy boys, who learned skiing and ate sausages or Kaiserschmarrn for lunch. We parents were at least as happy. Because we were the "Kinderschneealm" over which despite the many enthusiastic girls and boys a groaning permanent sound was (pee! Mama! Warm! Cold! Thirst! Falling!), Always left very quickly, as soon as the boys were delivered. In two hours you can make quite a few runs if you keep up.

And even skiing makes parents much happier than watching children learn to ski. Especially since we have already gone through a lot every morning before - and therefore needed recovery. The discussion for example, whether "Fanta" is good as a breakfast drink, and why, if that is not the case, then it is offered at the buffet? The howling of our sons on the way to the gondola when they had to go fast, because it was already late. The lamentations over the oppressive ski boots. And the daily quarrel in the gondola, whether today "snow goggles, sunglasses or no glasses" to wear.

Children's slopes with love and imagination

Or as ski instructor Okker, Linus (4) loudly and perseveringly called "Orka", slipped half the day in front of our youngest in the snow, so that his skis held nicely in pizza position. Or how ski instructor Lizzy adjusted the snow goggles on our helm ten times an hour to our Simon (6). We seldom saw our eldest son, Joris (8) himself. He was on the ground from the first day with ski instructor Andi, a giant with long brown hair, and the snow dwarves.

There are special children's slopes in Serfaus, which lead over small jumps and through sound tunnels, through a fairytale forest and an animal park. With a lot of love and imagination, it is ensured that the little ones not only ski, but also learn a lot about flora, fauna and the legendary world of the Alps. What you are sure to realize is that we will soon have to go to Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis again. Simon and Linus have not driven the zoo park yet. And please be glad that you do not have to hear how loud the two howled when they realized this on the return journey on the train.

Getting there

• Night Train: With the ÖBB "Nightjet" you can travel from many German train stations comfortably in a sleeper or couchette car to Innsbruck. From there it takes a good half hour by train to Landeck and then about an hour by bus to the Serfaus high plateau. Many accommodations offer guests a cheap shuttle service from / to Landeck. "Nightjet" z. B. from / to Dusseldorf to Innsbruck from 98 euros. Family compartment for up to 6 persons from 398 Euro. Who wants to take his car, paid for it from 38 euros for round trip (www.nightjet.com).

Stay

• Hotel Baer. The owners have virtually discovered the concept of "family hotel" as the founder of "Leading Family Hotels". There's everything here: indoor playground, cinema, huge swimming pool with water slide and climbing hall for the kids, sauna area, wine bar and evening menu for the adults - while the children are lovingly cared for. In the sister hotel "lion" families with under three year olds feel particularly well. DZ / VP incl.non-alcoholic drinks from 246 euros, for families there are cheap weekly packages (Serfaus, Herrenanger 9, Tel. 00 43/54 76/60 58, www.loewebaer.com).
• Biopension Alpenheim. Cozy pension in the center of Fiss. Nice rooms with lots of wood, small wellness area. DZ / F from 108 Euro (Fiss, Mu ?hlenweg 4, Tel. 00 43/54 76/63 59, www.alpenheim.net).

Enjoy

• Cologne house. Although the hut and the terrace to the ski school break are reliably filled to the last seat and it is correspondingly hectic, the food is anything but hut food, but from regional fresh ingredients, really delicious and still not overpriced (for example dumpling duo about 12 Euro, delicious Kaiserschmarrn about 11 Euro). Highly recommended and extremely family friendly - there is even a small children's toilet! If you want to stay longer: You can also rent, double / half board from 151 Euro (Serfaus, Komperdell 116, Tel. 00 43/54 76/62 14, www.koelnerhaus.at).

Experience

• To ski. 162 km of slopes, all above 1200 meters altitude, 68 lifts and as a basic principle: family-friendly. Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis is not by any means one of the most popular ski resorts in Tyrol. Ski pass for 6 days from 217 euros (adults) and 126 euros (children). In Serfaus and Fiss there is a large children's ski area, each with a dozen "magic carpets" and all sorts of tools for learning. 6 days children's ski course from 277 euros, for adults from 298 euros (info: www.skischuleserfaus.com).

2. Val d'Isère, Savoie (France):
Three thousand and steak tartare

When Daniel Clarey moved to Val d'Isère in 1982, it still snowed a good 19 meters in one season. Today there are five to six, in good years. That's enough to make Val d? Isère one of the most snow-sure destinations in the Alps - but it's not enough to let the tourists who want to sell their place with "snow guarantee" in 30 years sleep well at night.

Farsightedness: The center of Val d'Isère, on the right the "Rocher de Bellevarde", in the middle the Manchet valley

© Val d'Isère Tourisme

To understand their concern, one must look at the very old houses in the center, built in the 17th century, made of fieldstone, with wood and slate roofs: these buildings, which stand around the 11th century church, have two doors. A summer door on the ground floor and a winter door on the first floor. At that time, at 1,800 meters in the Savoy Alps, it snowed so much that it was impossible to master the masses without a snow plow. And because the shoveling was too exhausting with bare hands, they preferred to build a second door for the houses. Then it did not matter if the ground floor sank in white.

Winter holidays with snow guarantee

In the 1960s, it was decided to monetize these relentless, long winters. Ski resorts were built on state orders, sometimes out of nowhere as in Tignes, sometimes in mature villages like Val d'Isère. 28000 guest beds, the place counts today, on 1600 permanent residents. However, the white splendor sometimes makes rare. And that's why the "snow breeder" Daniel Clarey is also one of the most important men here.

Together with his colleagues, he brings almost 1.5 million cubic meters to the slopes of Val d'Isère every winter. "We manage up to 8,000 cubic meters per hour when conditions are ideal," he explains. Such a cubic meter of artificial snow costs between five and seven euros, which comes from almost half a cubic meter of water and a lot of cold compressed air. In fact, it is small ice balls that are produced by the snow cannons and then blown onto the slopes with the help of fans or trickle down from about 15 meters high snow lances. Clarey and his colleagues are proud of the "snow guarantee" that they can give to the guests of Val d? Isère from the end of November to the end of April - also for the departures to the village.

Snow-sure at over 2500 meters altitude

Personally, I especially like it here especially because the largest and absolutely snow-sure part of the ski area is over 2500 meters. Never before had I had such a spectacular view while skiing: on 30 three-thousanders all around. Every now and then we even see Mont Blanc in the distance, the 4810-meter giant between France and Italy. Many of the slopes are gloriously steep, including the 1992 Olympic downhill, the notorious "Face de Bellevarde": 959 meters difference in altitude to almost three kilometers in length.

Patrick Ortlieb got here with 1: 50.37 gold - we need almost fifteen minutes, and then my knees tremble quite properly. Nevertheless, I would like to start again immediately. But the area is so big that you have to keep track of who wants to cross it in one day. We drive south, to the Pissaillas Glacier and pull on an ice field at 3400 meters altitude fresh tracks in the powder snow. In front of us bizarre, reddish-bright rock towers stretch, we turn around canyons and crevasses? Skiing here feels like an expedition.

Delicious, French cuisine

At lunchtime I enjoy the fact that you do not serve wieners and mushy spaghetti in French mountain huts, but three-course meals with salmon pate, steak tartare and raw milk cheese. And even the après ski I like here - without "Red Horse" or "Anton from Tyrol", but with live rock bands and guest appearances of world-famous electro DJs. Therefore, I sincerely hope that Daniel Clarey and his colleagues will further refine their snowmaking skills. So that they can give many, many years a snow guarantee for the departures to Val d'Isère.

Getting there

• Val d? Isère is located two and a half hours by car south of Geneva. Geneva has direct connections from most German airports. From there, shuttle buses run to the French ski resorts, as well as from Bourg Saint-Maurice, which can be reached via Lyon by TGV (journey time just over 3 hours).

Stay

• Tsanteleina. Traditional house in modern Alpine style with skins, felt and lots of wood, swimming pool and excellent cuisine in the restaurant "La Table des Neiges" (four-course menu for 58 euros). DZ / F from 240 Euro (www.tsanteleina.com).
• Residences La Daille. Like a fortress made of wood, metal and concrete, the up to twelve-story houses tower up between steep cliffs at the entrance to the valley. The high-rise apartments with holiday apartments at the valley station in La Daille date back to the 1960s. For a long time, they were reviled as architectural sin - now it is once again considered hip to live here. The defiant walls and slate-gray metal roofs are reminiscent of rocky mountains. Apartment for 7 nights from 420 Euro (via www.pierreetvacances.com or www.fewo-direkt.de).

Enjoy

• L? Atelier d? Edmond. In the evening, Benôit Vidal cooks menus in his restaurant, for which he has earned two stars in the "Michelin Guide". At noon, the bistro opens on the ground floor, just a few meters from the base station of the gondola in Le Fornet. There is a daily changing three-course menu for 29 euros, served in small casseroles and preserving jars on a wooden board (Le Fornet, Tel. 00 33/479 00 21 42, www.atelier-edmond.com).
• Cocorico. The après-ski location in Val d'Isère, right where all the slopes end in the center. Guaranteed no hits, but rock-live music and large quantities of fresh draft beer (Place du Rond Point des Pistes, www.cocoricovaldisere.com).
• Patésserie Chevallot. Patrick Chevallot proudly wears his title "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" for outstanding craftsmanship. Its tartlets and chocolates are a real visual and tasty flavor. And if you are looking for a really good sandwich, with raw milk cheese, the best cold cuts and crunchy vegetables (from 4 euros), this is also the place for you (Place André Degouey, www.chevallot.com).

Experience

• To ski. A ski resort of superlatives in the midst of 30 three-thousanders: two glaciers, 300 km of slopes, 1900 meters difference in altitude on 10000 hectares. There are 26 black and 40 red pistes, but in the newly designed "Solaise" area, even weaker riders in spectacular high-altitude scenery get their money's worth. Ski pass for 6 days from about 256 Euro (www.valdisere.com).
• Snow factory. In two entertaining hours in the "Atelier de Neige" you learn how to turn water and air into snow. Free of charge after registration (Tel. 00 33/479 06 06 60, www.valdisere.com).

3. Spitzbergen (Norway):
When the Arctic turns on the light

The dogs do not bark, they do not howl, they literally scream. So loud that we humans have to communicate with hand signals. They had not been outside for three weeks, Guide Lara had prepared for us. The animals that she and her colleague Michael fetch from the fenced enclosure, where each is chained to a small wooden box, are loud with anticipation, the others furious that they are lagging behind.

When our team is complete, Michael gives the command, slightly shaky, I release the brake, the dogs start - and suddenly it is quiet. Once the animals are on the move, they fall silent. In a large arc, they pull the sled out onto the wide, treeless plain, over whose untouched blanket of snow a gigantic starry sky sparkles. This is just one of many magical moments on my journey to the end of the world. Because that is the archipelago Svalbard - their German name Spitzbergen is actually only the name of the main island.

Between Norway and North Pole

The island belongs to Norway, but is located almost 1000 kilometers from the mainland, about the same distance separates them from the North Pole. Just because the Gulf Stream brings at least some heat into this part of the Arctic and the temperatures rarely fall below minus 20 degrees, you can stay here permanently. Apart from a few research stations, Svalbard's capital, Longyearbyen, is the northernmost settlement in the world, with over 2,000 inhabitants.

Winter has reliably two main colors: White - from November and until the beginning of May, therefore, the snowmobile is the most important means of transport and transportation, most families have several, more than 4000 are all over Svalbard? and black. We land in the middle of the night, but the next morning it is not bright. Another 84 days will remain so dark, can be read on the monitor in the hotel lobby.

Enlightenment: The traditional Sami tents in the Brattlidalen are the destination of an aurora excursion with the snowmobile

© Fotolia, PR

At the end of November, the sun is so far below the horizon that we do not even experience a twilight. That may sound daunting, but it is not, because the Arctic has its own light - and its own fascination. Again and again we run outside and stare up. It usually starts with a pale flicker that quickly disappears. "Was there something?" We ask. "Just keep looking", advise the locals. And then suddenly a curtain opens up over us, made of green and blue, swings over us for several minutes. And yes, Aurora is just physics, but for a moment I'm just standing there enchanted.

Welcome to the wild!

Of course, the Arctic can do it differently. On the outskirts of Longyearbyen is a road sign with a polar bear on it - and this is definitely more than just a photo opportunity for tourists: From here begins the wilderness, from here on the wearing of a weapon duty. About 3000 animals live on Svalbard. Most out there on the ice, where they hunt seals, but always come close to humans. "Stay close together," it says, whenever we're out of town. You get used to it, even to the weapons of the guides.

And you get used to the darkness. Already on the second day, the senses become sharper, and more and more contours emerge from it. At the end of the journey we trudge through a valley, the frozen snow crackles under the spikes, the wind bites in our eyes and face, behind the silhouettes of the huge table mountains all around us the northern lights flit again. And suddenly it gets very quiet in me, the cold is gone and the magic is back: In the midst of this misanthropic ice desert, I actually feel a moment completely safe.

Getting there

• SAS flies from many German airports to Oslo and from there to Longyearbyen, flight time from Oslo about three hours. Tickets from 350 euros (www.sasfly.com).

Stay

• Radisson Blu Polar Hotel. In the center of Longyearbyen, near the pedestrian zone, with an outdoor Jacuzzi and a bar where locals meet. DZ / F from 180 Euro (Tel. 00 47/79 02 34 50, www.radissonblu.com/en/hotel-spitsbergen).

Enjoy

• Coal Miners? Cabins, Bar & Grill. These buildings were built in the 1940s in the "suburb" Nybyen for the miners and offer in the old fair a cozy bar and in the restaurant very delicious burger from the charcoal grill (menu with chips 20 euros). You can also spend the night, DR / F from 95 Euro (via Hurtigruten Svalbard, Tel. 00 47/79 02 63 00, www.hurtigrutensvalbard.com).

Experience

• Camp Barents evening. The cabin outside of Longyearbyen is modeled after the winter camp of the Spitzbergen explorer Willem Barents. To rich reindeer stew from the open fire, there are adventure stories (three hours 116 €, Hurtigruten Svalbard, Tel. 00 47/79 02 61 00, www.hurtigrutensvalbard.com).
• Dog sled tour. Four hours on the sled, equipment such as thermal suit, hat and headlamp are provided (137 euros, about Hurtigruten Svalbard, Tel. 00 47/79 02 61 00, www.hurtigrutensvalbard.com).

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