Vienna in winter: A culinary walk

© Martin /

The blue of the sky stings in the eyes, the cold in the face, every breath is an inner Kneipp cure. Clouds in the midday sun look like pink punched donuts, under a sugar glaze buried cake cube with rum-chocolate filling. Not a bad idea, says my stomach. But too soon, my reason says, the calories on a culinary walk in Vienna must be well divided.

I stroll through the first district, the elegant city center of Vienna, past parades of baroque buildings made of sandstone. Hooves clatter over the cobbled streets, a horse with red and white earmuffs trots past, behind the coachman in the carriage lies a blanket, under which red-frozen noses peeped out. Steaming at every corner, pans, big as cartwheels, covered with hot chestnuts. Vienna is full of promises, but I already know where I want to go: to the Wollzeile, a reserve of long-established specialist shops for all sorts of goodies.

On the threshold of "Feinkost Böhle", I immediately forget the cold, and my entire perception is occupied with the displays: freshly cut ham, charlins caviar on blinis, Tafelspitzsulz, chestnut cream, pies. My stomach and I can not decide, besides, now also turn on my legs and demand a break.

In the cellar vault of the "Hollmann salon" I squeeze myself to a long wooden table and order the "Salon Brettl", a culinary patchwork: pumpkin liver cheese with rosemary crostini, potato goulash with sour cream and roast beef with horseradish and chives, all bottled in small jars and lovingly draped on a wooden board. I cheer with the nice gentleman eating baked chicken with potato salad.

Outside, the sun is slipping towards the evening, just peering over the six, seven old building floors. The air is colder now, pinching my face. Red lamps, big and round like gymnastic balls, illuminate the Rotenturmstraße from Steffl to the Danube Canal. On the Christmas market in front of the town hall, the trees are hung with hearts, biscuits and nutcracker lanterns.

© phunk /

Cookies, at this sight my stomach starts again. Then I see a stall with langosch, a thin Hefefladen, a Hungarian specialty - and can not resist. Is really very thin, even if Din-A4-sized and brushed with garlic oil. Desserts: a banal, white powdered apple strudel. Already I am sitting again, in the "Café Korb".

I have time. A pleasure walk must finally fulfill one of the favorite mottoes of the Viennese: "Only ned hudeln." This anti-hectic motto is taken so seriously in this city that for example in the famous coffee house "Jelinek" is written on a board: "Those in a hurry will not be served here."

My last gear - whether the air is hot or stinging cold, does not matter anymore. I feel warm. Even though the pink clouds disappeared in the dark, I did not forget them, the punched donuts. In the "Chocolaterie pâtisserie au marché" they store behind glass, in addition to eclairs, tarts, biscuits. When I ask the confectioner Eduard A. Fruth for real Viennese Punschkrapfen, he scolds: "Viennese is nothing. The kitchen is a single blend!" He is right, a wonderful mixture of hearty and sweet. With this melange in my stomach and a pink sugar cube in my hand, I walk out into the Viennese night.


The Levante Parliament Design hotel not far from Burgtheater and Rathaus. Because of the noisy street rooms to reserve the courtyard. DZ / F from 286 Euro (Auerspergstraße 9, A-1080 Vienna, Tel. 53 54 51 50, Fax 535 45 15 15,

Hollmann Beletage Feel-good hotel with 25 rooms, exterior classic Wilhelminian style house, interior Asian furnishings. Spa with sauna and steam room, beautiful salon with piano and library. DZ / F from 170 Euro (Köllnerhofgasse 6, A-1010 Vienna, Tel. 961 19 60, Fax 961 19 60 33,

Benediktushaus Guest house of the Schottenstift in the middle of the city center - in front of it is one of the nicest Christmas markets in Vienna. Nice rooms with one, two or three separate beds and a private bathroom. DZ / F from 99 Euro (Freyung 6a, A-1010 Vienna, Tel. 53 49 89 00, Fax 53 49 81 05,


Hollmann SalonTraditional Viennese dishes, interpreted in a modern way and served in a stylish and minimalist decor. Lunch and small meals are available at the "Salon Brettl", in the evening menu (Grashofgasse 2, Tel. 961 19 60 40,

Inn GoldmarieInsider tip in the district Meidling: Modified Viennese cuisine, also some vegetarian dishes. Specialties: Huferlsteak and schnitzel.Main courses 8 to 15 Euro (Hoffmeistergasse 7, Tel. 817 01 58,

Inn WildNice neighborhood restaurant. A dream: Salonbeuschel (sour Lüngerl), small portion for 8 euros. For dessert, try potato dumplings with nougat filling (Radetzkyplatz 1, tel. 920 94 77).

A Viennese salonNice little restaurant with fine cuisine, great fish dishes. After 22.30 hours only four-, five- or six-course menus (from 43 euros). Reservations! (Stubenbastei 10/1, Tel. 66 06 54 27 85,

Action heat dispenser Under the motto "Soup & Soul", seven restaurateurs will be cooking at Karlsplatz / Resselpark until December 23, with DJs performing. The proceeds benefit charitable causes.

To the black camelTowel-narrow patisserie with a small, but extremely impressive offer: z. B. "Sweet glasses" - layered works of art made of chocolate mousse, caramel and almond crumble. Particularly suitable as a souvenir: macaroons with fruit filling (Bognergasse 7,

To the 3 hoes Typical Viennese inn. Baked of all kinds, for example, a delicious veal escalope for 15 euros (Singerstraße 28, Tel. 512 58 95).

To the Dark StarAward-winning restaurant by chef Ella de Silva in a cellar bar. International and Austrian cuisine. Main courses about 18 euros, z. B. rabbit with salsiccia-sage filling, mountain lentils and warm peperonata (schoolyard 8, Tel. 535 21 00).

Small cafeHidden café with cozy living room atmosphere. Delicious sandwiches (Franziskanerplatz 3).

MentoneEspresso-Barmit great cake (eg apricot), the Mariahilfer Straße for shopping is just around the corner (Kirchengasse 7, Tel 523 53 82).

NoiBoheme-Café on Yppenplatz, Vienna's multicultural corner. Do not miss: Cheese or sausage specialty dishes and the excellent coffee (Payergasse 12).

PunschereiAs a café used flat bunker in Augarten. Children grill marshmallows by the open fire, their parents can now warm their hands on mulled wine (Obere Augartenstraße 1A,

Café basketVienna's best apple strudel, served in a glorious 50s atmosphere. Elfriede Jelinek described it as "demonic beauty" (Brandstatte 9, Tel. 533 72 15).

Christmas markets

Christmas market at Rathausplatz in Vienna largest market with thousands of visitors, lots of music and children's program - as well as the largest Advent wreath in Europe. Opposite the Burgtheater.

Old Viennese Christmas market on the FreyungSmall, contemplative Christmas market; also at Wienern a popular meeting place. Punch and small dishes, little kitsch.

Winter magic in the MuseumsquartierThe market for the boys in front of a beautiful backdrop of modern museums. Here you are active in sports (eg curling) and listen to DJ music.

Christmas villagesNostalgic markets in three locations, relaxed atmosphere, lots of crafts and small gift ideas for the festival (Belvedere Palace, Altes AKH, Maria-Theresien-Platz between the Museum of Art and Natural History,


Blossoming confectionery: Depending on the season and collecting happiness there are z. B. chocolate-dipped elderflower, violet-raspberry balls, chocolate mint leaves or sugared saffron leaves. Every year more than a hundred types of confectionery are mixed in the store, many of them brand new. Dreierbonbonniere from 3.90 euros (Schmalzhofgasse 19,

Xocolat drinking chocolates, table chocolates, biscuits - chocolate lovers could spend days here and would not have tasted anything (Freyung 2, in the passage of the Palais Ferstel).

Babette's cookbook and spice shop, small dishes for lunch (Schleifmühlgasse 17,


Tourist Information Vienna Albertinaplatz, Vienna 1, Tel. 245 55, Fax 24 55 56 66,

Austrian Food Tour: The BEST Schnitzels, Beer & Pancakes In Vienna | Vienna Food & Travel Vlog (March 2023).

Vienna Christmas Market, snow, winter, cakes, pastries, mulled wine

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