Stop! And stay here for a long time!
The ceiling light flickers nervously, the T-shirt sticks, dumb flashes rip the evening sky over the lake of Bages - and then: a single, deafening thunderclap. The ladies in the restaurant answer with sharp screams, the baby with a roar. Already the long-awaited rain breaks out of the clouds, he drums on the roof of the glazed porch, he drives a fresh breeze through the restaurant. One can breathe again and turns redeemed to dinner.
Fishing boats on the lake shore of Bages
Here in Bages, in the restaurant "Le Portanel", I order only a "petit noir", a small black coffee, then nothing like out into the fresh night air. Silence. It dribbles from the rooftops, the lake shimmers in the moonlight, and the bougainvilleas exude delicate fragrances. Languedoc-Roussillon had long fascinated me. Only I did not want to set a route, no hotels book in advance. Rather, drive around, let me be inspired by the moment, allow coincidences and linger, where it suits my mood.
In the small town of Pézenas we started our journey. 50 kilometers southwest of Montpellier, in the middle of green vineyards: The Languedoc produces the largest amount of wine in all of France on a total of 300,000 hectares of cultivated land. Therefore, the wines were considered for years as mass products of inferior quality. In the meantime, however, many winegrowers have opted for organic cultivation, and the vine juice has improved considerably. We make the test: The red quality wine of Apellation Côteaux du Languedoc, which we sip in the courtyard of the restaurant "Les Palmiers", tastes great.
Savoir vivre in Pézenas
Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries Pézena was the seat of government of the Languedoc region, and I imagine Molière and his troupe, the "Illustre Théâtre", wandering here. Long-haired and in a fluffy blouse, in breeches and buckled shoes, over the elegant squares, through the baroque courtyards and open staircases. It was autumn 1650, when the famous comedian played for the first time in Pézenas. So successful that he kept coming back for the next few years.
"37, 9 ° C." Red, the numbers light up from the urban thermometers as we cross the old bridge to Béziers. On the top of the cliff, Saint-Nazaire's Cathedral towers over the land. In the center Béziers, "la capitale du vin" proves to be cosmopolitan, modern and lively. We walk along the Allées Paul Riquet and personally thank every sycamore that gives us shade. The central Bummel axis shows sleepy. The old gentlemen, who planned to spend their afternoon playing pétanque, cling to the park benches, and Pierre Paul Riquet, the architect of the Canal du Midi, to whom the city has set a memorial here, seems to be too hot , Matt, he tends his head. Riquet, a contemporary of Molière, had made a fortune as a collector of the royal salt tax. And he succeeded in inspiring Louis XIV to build a waterway that would connect the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. The Canal du Midi, a marvel of engineering technology, was completed in just 15 years - with 64 locks, numerous aqueducts and nearly a hundred bridges ,
By excursion boat over the Canal du Midi
In the port of Homps we buy tickets for a "promenade sur le canal du midi". A step over the boat dock, a sheltered place between French families with ten cute children, the engine chugs off, and: The whole life changes rhythm and perspective. At the root level, we glide through the countryside, and it's not about getting anywhere, nor about laboriously making their way or even looking for it. No, we just let ourselves be carried for an hour and a half. First, I measure the distance traveled from plane to plane, but stop counting soon. 45,000 plane trees serve the canal as a natural bank fortification.
Narbonne
In the Middle Ages, cats were considered the embodiment of evil and the devil's ally. Those who dealt with them were immediately counted among those who had fallen away from true faith. Especially the Cathars, followers of a Christian poverty movement, were slaughtered like cattle. Pope Innocent III. thanked his faithful abbot Arnaud-Amaury for the massacre, and shortly thereafter appointed him archbishop of Narbonne. Its episcopal palace and the gothic Saint-Just cathedral, with its wonderful cloister, are just a hundred meters from our hotel La Résidence on the Canal de la Robine, which runs through Narbonne.The most idyllic place I have ever seen is a meadow in front of the Abbey of Fontfroid, in a secluded valley in the vineyards of the Corbières - that peace, that quiet serenity, this clear monastery architecture!
Over all mountains: magnificent view from the Cathar castle Quéribus
Further south, the land becomes barren, the vineyards are left behind, the hills are now strewn with stones, individual ridges rise steeply, on their summits tower ruins of gray limestone rise to the sky. Through a rocky path and endless stone steps we climb up to the Château de Peyrepertuse. And the longing grows. After colorful life and bustle, after carefree joie de vivre, after the moving sea. Another hour and a half to the coast. Shortly before Collioure the sky gets a deeper blue. We drive down into the bay, no ugly new building, no wrong sound destroys the picture. The sea is crystal clear, the market is colorful, people are happy. The pebble beach is nestled between the church and Château Royal, in the middle of town. We plunge into the flood, cuddle, whiz and wash the gloomy dust of the story off our skin. With wet hair, we sit down in the restaurant directly above the beach and order a plate of seafood. The white wine glass fogged, a drop of pearls silvery, behind the sea. We wink at the evening light.
travel service
BEST TRAVEL TIME September and October as well as May and June.
PHONE Area code for France is 00 33, then the location number without the zero.
PEZENAS
The hotel "d'Alfonce" in Pézenas
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING Hôtel d`Alfonce: The owner has expanded two guest rooms in her baroque city palace. Exquisite facilities, breakfast on the loggia overlooking the green courtyard. DZ / F from 80 Euro (Corinne Aubert, 32, rue Conti, F-34120 Pézenas, Tel. 04 67/90 71 89. www.hoteldalfonce.abcsalles.com Hôtel de Vigniamont: A couple from England has completely renovated a Renaissance palace and furnished it extremely comfortably. Enchanted Höfchen with fountain, roof terrace for sunbathing. DZ / F from 95 Euro (Robert & Tracy McVeigh, 5, rue Massillon, F-34120 Pézenas, Tel. 04 67/35 14 88, Fax 35 18 96, www.hoteldevigniamont.com). La Dordine: four simple rooms in a towel-house in the beautiful historic city center. Family atmosphere, delicious breakfast in the living room with bay window. Attention: narrow, steep staircase. DZ / F from 40 Euro (Véronique & Aurélien Carron, 9, rue des Litanies, F-34120 Pézenas, Tel. 04 67/90 34 81, www.ladordine.com).
TO EAT AND DRINK Les Palmiers: Picturesque courtyard under palm trees, decorated in the 50s style with colored lamps and modern art. The kitchen is traditionally Mediterranean with fresh produce from the market. (Cour des Palmiers / 10, rue Mercière, Tel. 90 42 56). Les Marronniers: Terrace in the shadow of old chestnut trees, right in the heart of the junkyard district. (6, avenue de Verdun, Tel. 90 13 80).
LOOK AND BUY Autour de l`arbre: Drechsler Eric Bourneil (11, rue triperie). Vieille Ferronnerie d'Art Marnet: Art smith Lucien Marnet (10, impasse Simon Ducros). Art: Painter and sculptor Emmanuel Flipo Kébir (7, rue des Orfèvres). Couturier: Master tailor Guy Arnoux (5, rue F. Oustrin). Les Chapeaux de Galinette: Hatter Shop (13, place Gambetta).
NECESSARILY TRY Domaine de Fondouce: A few minutes' drive northwest of Pézenas lies the imposing mansion of Fondouce. In the cellar or in front of it, in the garden under the blue parasol, the wine with the Denomination of Origin Côteaux du Languedoc is served. By skilled parcel plants, the winemaker comes without pesticides (Madame Magnien, Route de Roujan, Phone 98 30 32, www chateau-fondouce.com).
INFO Maison du Tourisme de Pézenas, 10, Place Gambetta, F-34120 Pézenas, Phone 04 67/98 36 40.
BEZIERS
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING Hôtel Imperator: nice, central city hotel. Very nice green courtyard for breakfast and shady breaks. DZ / F from 65 Euro (28, Allées Paul Riquet, F-34509 Béziers, Tel. 04 67/49 02 25, Fax 28 92 30, www.hotel-imperator.fr). Château de Raissac: Five minutes from Béziers, the old Languedoc Castle is in the park. Four rooms have been furnished by the hostess and ceramic artist Christine Viennet. Antiques mingle with modern art and junk. The painting husband cooks in the evening since his son took over the winemaking business. DZ / F from 100 Euro (Christine Viennet, Route de Lignan / Orb, F-34500 Béziers, Tel. 0467/491760, Fax 281975, www.raissac.com). Christine Viennet has exhibited her collection of ceramics from the 17th to the 21st century in Raissac Castle. In the former stables, especially their own ceramic creations can be seen. Of course she also sells. Creative courses in the studio, six to eight people can learn to model and glaze. Also weekly courses.
Author Susanne Friedmann at the "les caves de la Madeleine"
EAT AND DRINK WELL Au Cep d? Or: Located in the middle of the old town on a steep lane, this small eatery is famous for its fish and seafood.(7, rue Viennet, Tel. 0467/492809). Les Caves de la Madeleine: On the square in front of the medieval church of St. Madeleine you can enjoy the specialties of the region, fish or lamb, in a refined preparation. Very nice also the dining room in the former wine cellar! (Nathalie & Frederic, 2, Place de la Madeleine, Tel. 0467/281708). LOOK AND BUY: Class clothes: open-air clothes market every Friday morning on Place du 14th Juillet. Maison Caratiér: Pierre and Laurent Caratiér produce chocolate to take off, even the Canal Builder Paul Riquet's as a Chocolate Sculpture (49, avenue Jean Moulin).
VILLENEUVE-LES-BEZIERS
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING La Chamberte: Bruno has fulfilled his lifelong dream and expanded a former warehouse outside the gates of Béziers hospitable. Five rooms are available to guests, sophisticated, modern, tasteful and with a beautifully landscaped garden with terrace and comfortable loungers. In the evening there is a menu, you have to sign up early, because Bruno's kitchen is famous in Béziers and the surrounding area! DZ / F from 86 Euro (Bruno Saurel, Rue de la Source, F-34420 Villeneuve-les-Béziers, Tel. 0467/398483, www.la-chamberte.com).
MURVIEL-LES-BEZIERS
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING Château de Murviel: five Chambres d`hôtes in the castle of Murviel, in the middle of a small medieval village, 12 kilometers north of Béziers. Old walls, tasteful comfort, beautiful breakfast room. DZ / F from 85 Euro (1, Place Georges Clémenceau, F-34490 Murviel-les-Béziers, Tel. 0467/323545, Fax 323525, www.chateau-de-murviel.com). L`Hacienda des Roucans: nice little bungalow resort in the vineyard St. Chinian. Swimming pool and direct access to the bank of the river L`Orb. DZ / F from 71 Euro (Thierry, Jacinta and Tristan Delahaye, Route de Réals - Les Roucans, F-34490 Murviel-les-Béziers, Tel. 0467/329010, Fax 329081), www.haciendadesroucans.com INFO Office de Tourisme de Beziers, 29, avenue St-Saens, F-34500 Béziers, Tel. 0467/768400, Fax 765080, www.beziers-tourisme.fr.
HOMPS
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING AND EATING WELL Auberge de l`Arbousier: Rebuilt in 1988 on the Canal du Midi, the old wine storage hall now houses eleven nice modern rooms and a busy restaurant with old beams and natural stone walls. Beautiful the tables outside the water in the shade of the plane trees. (50, Avenue de Carcassonne, F-11200 Homps, Tel. 0468/911124, Fax 911261, vialandis.reservit.com. Le Jardin de Homps: discreet luxury. Wonderful hall with dark wood staircases, garden with palm trees and pool, five bright rooms. On request, you also get something fine cooked. (Nina et Guy Bourdon, 21, grand Rue, F-11200 Homps, www.jardinhomps.com).
ON THE WATER Location de Bateaux: At the Capitainerie in the harbor of Homps you can rent a boat without license. Whole day about 200 euros. Two-hour excursion on the Canal du Midi, approximately € 10 for adults, € 5.50 for children (Croisière du Midi, Quai des Tonnelliers - BP2, Tel. 0468/913300).
CARCASSONNE
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING Hotel le Donjon-les-Remparts: located within the fortress walls, partly in a medieval defense tower, with knight armor and minnesong from the loudspeaker. (2? 4, Rue du Comte Roger, Cite Médiévale, F-11000 Carcassonne, Tel. 0468/112300, Fax 250660) www.hotel-donjon.fr. La Maison sur la Colline: The house is located on the green hill opposite Carcassonne. Mother and daughter Galinien provide the guests with special cordiality. Garden with swimming pool, terrace overlooking the countryside. Each of the six rooms is individually decorated in a different basic color and each one has a spacious bathroom. And the food, from the various breakfast cakes to the cassoulet: a poem. (Mas de Sainte Croix, F-11000 Carcassonne, Tel./Fax 0468/475794, www.lamaisonsurlacolline.com).
Eat well Auberge de Dame Carcas: in the medieval Cité. Specialties include grilled suckling pig and cassoulet, the culinary classic of Languedoc - a white bean stew with fresh sausage, smoked bacon, pork shoulder, pork shank, pork rind and garlic. (3, Place du Château, Tel. 0468/712323). INFO Office Municipal du Tourisme, 28, rue de Verdun, F-11890 Carcassonne, Tel. 0468/102430, Fax 102438, www.carcassonne- tourisme.com.
MONTOLIEU
Bookstore in Montolieu
If you love books, you must plan a trip to Montolieu from Carcassonne. The bookbinder Michel Braibant has transformed the inconspicuous village at the foothills of the Montagne Noire into a mecca for bibliophile contemporaries. Since 1989, twelve antique shops, bookbinders, engravers, a paper mill and a book café have settled in the "Books Village". Every third Sunday of the month there's a book market. Our tip: Librairie François Castagné; large selection, also precious Erstausgaben, old illustrated books and prints. Also pleasant: François hears classical music all day long (Place Jean Guéhenno, Tel. 0468/244205).
CUCUGNAN
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING AND EATING WELL Auberge du Vigneron: Ideal base for exploring the Cathar castles of Peyrepertuse and Quéribus. Nice, simple rooms overlooking the vineyards, excellent food, great wine selection, as the owner, Monsieur Laffite, grows wine on his doorstep. Double / HB from 44 Euro (2, rue Achille Mir, Tel. 0468/450300) www.auberge-vigneron.com.
PORTEL DES CORBIERES
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING Domaine de la Pierre Chaude: An 18th-century wine warehouse has become a dream property, about 15 kilometers from Narbonne, in a nature reserve. Four large Chambres d? Hôtes, studios with salon for four to eight people. Airy-luxurious, Spanish-inspired. DZ / F from 75 Euro (Myriam et Jacques Pasternak, Domaine de la Pierre Chaude, Les Campets, F-11490 Portel-des-Corbières, Tel. 0468/488979, Fax 488979, www.lapierrechaude.com).
COLLIOURE
BEAUTIFUL SLEEPING AND EATING WELL Les Templiers: Bar, hotel, restaurant. Here they crouched, ate, painted, they all chatted. Matisse, Derain, Dufy, Maillol, Picasso ... all the wild painters 100 years ago. Even today, the hotel and restaurant look like artists' caves: stuffed with 2000 paintings, drawings, photos. The rooms are modernized, a bit noisy to the alley. (12, quai de l'Amirauté, F-66190 Collioure, tel. 0468/983110, fax 980124, www.hotel-templiers.com). La Casa Pairal: a green oasis of tranquility, right in the center of Collioure, 150 meters from the port and the beach. Several buildings are grouped around the park-like garden, the rooms look out onto the courtyard with small balconies. Wonderfully relaxed luxury. www.hotel-casapairal.com. Domaine de Valcros: From the mansion, the vineyards in the neighboring village of Port Vendres extend to the plague of Paulilles. On the beach, the surfers climb onto the boards, watched by the guests of the Ferme-Auberge, which belongs to the winery. On the sea and grapevines you can also see the two Chambres d? Hôtes and the apartment. Clear and comfortable the rooms, furnished with antiques. There is a large shared terrace - and the path to the beach .. Apartment for five people from 400 Euro / week (Domaine de Valcros, Plage de Paulilles, F-66660 Port Vendres BP 29, Tel. 0468/820427, www.domainedevalcros .com).
LOOK AND BUY Espace Fauve: Treasure trove for art lovers. Beautiful prints, posters, art postcards, catalogs especially about the so-called "Fauve", the wild painters like Matisse and Derain, who "discovered" Collioure in 1905 (Quai de l'Amirauté). Anchois Roque: In the background you can see how the anchovies are put into salt, in front you can buy them in cans or jars (17, route d? Argelès). ? Croquants à l? Anciènne: delicious local wines in the cellar of Coopérative de Collioure (8, rue Berthelot). Danseur catalans: Attention, color noise! The so-called Catalan fabrics, "tissu catalans", are woven in Roussillon. They are made of pure cotton with geometrically patterned stripes in clear, bright colors. The famous footwear shoes, the espadrilles, also made in Roussillon, are available in all colors (Place du 18 Juin).
INFO L`office de tourisme de Collioure, Place du 18 Juin, F-66190 Collioure, Tel. 0468/821547, www.collioure.com.
MORE INFO ON THE ENTIRE REGION
Comité Régional du Tourisme Languedoc Roussillon, 417, rue Samuel Morse, F-34960 Montpellier, Tel. 0467/228100, Fax 644748, www.sunfrance.com.
BOOK TIPS A good travel companion: "Languedoc-Roussillon" from the Michael Müller Verlag (19,90 Euro). Really current: Merian guide "Languedoc-Roussillon" with maps and a map of Nîmes.
GENERAL INFO Maison de la France, Westendstrasse 47, 60325 Frankfurt, Tel. 069/9758021, Fax 745556, www.franceguide.com or www.frankreich-sued.de.
