Make a wedding dress: Style to measure

Anke Büning, 31, has been running her own bridal fashion label YES YES in Cologne for two years. In the ChroniquesDuVasteMonde interview she reveals to us what drives her on every single gown, what the bridal fashion trends are for 2014, and what the perfect bridal gown has to do with a break dance on the dance floor and the last liquor of the evening.

Anke Büning, designer and CEO of YES YES

ChroniquesDuVasteMonde: How did you come up with the idea to tailor wedding dresses yourself?

Anke Büning: It all began twelve years ago when I was sewing a wedding dress for my brother's friend as part of my education: a long, simple silk dress. The radiance in my eyes at the last fitting touched me and is still my motivation today with every dress. It's not just a garment of many, and that's what I love about this work. In addition to my fashion design studies and my job as an employed designer, I have repeatedly designed and sewn wedding dresses. In the beginning for friends, later also for women, whom I did not know and who had fallen in love with one of the weddings in my dress style. At the beginning of 2012 I finally got married: I quit my permanent position and became a full-time bridal gown designer and manager of my own bridal fashion label YES YES. Since then I develop and produce simple, girlish wedding dresses with a light vintage touch.

"Less is more": why the effect of a particular detail matters more than the big picture

How exactly does such a design process work?

I ask before the first meeting what the bride dreams of and what she wants to look like on her big day. On this basis, I work out the first designs and put together a selection of materials. The bride comes to me, we get to know each other, she tells me about the planned wedding and the celebration, and we discuss in detail my designs and their ideas. Mostly, the bride falls in love with the first conversation in a draft and I then work out a custom-made unique.

To really decide on a design, but can also be quite difficult right?

I think it's good if brides bring their own ideas and try to implement every wish. Sometimes brides just want too much and can not decide. I then always advise in the direction of 'less is more' and try to convince the girls of the effect of a particular detail. Most important to me is what the bride wants and how she feels with the decisions. Meanwhile, I have developed a good sense for my brides and do not put pressure on: Either she loves her YES YES dress or not. And if unfortunately not, then she will find somewhere else and happy. And that's the way it should be.

Unconventional dresses instead of hoop skirt in princess look

All collection dresses in Anke's studio are made individually for the bride - from the lace trim to the sleeve extension.

When should brides begin at the latest with the Brautkleidsuche?

That is very different. On average, I need four months from design to realization, depending on the type of garment one to three fittings are needed. Basically, I advise you to start the search early. Large bridal gown manufacturers often have long delivery times, small bridal studios like YES YES have a capacity limit and only produce a certain number of dresses per season.

Tailoring yourself?

Yes, but only the autumn and winter dresses. In the main season, between February and July, I focus on the meetings, fittings and reviews as well as the designs and, of course, the patterning of each dress. My two seamstresses then take over the sewing and the cutting of the clothes.

How would you describe your typical customer?

The YES YES bride is young, modern and trendy. She does not want to dress up at her wedding and does not see herself in the typical princess dress with hoop skirt. Mostly she marries rather unconventionally and looks for a dress that is light and loose and fits her type. In general, brides can tailor a dress that has a very concrete idea and thus does not find it in the classic bridal shop.

You also have your own collection that you sell in the store and online. Do you rebuild the clothes to order or do the customers buy the dress you see?

Every wedding dress in my studio is made to measure and individually for the bride - whether it is one of my collection dresses or I completely redesign it.On my pole in the studio, there are a few other clothes in addition to the collection dresses, skirts, tops, jackets and coats, as well as accessories, bags and shoes.

What does a self-made dress cost?

The clothes from the YES YES collection start at 1200 euros, the individual at 1500 euros. But I can only produce a concrete estimate when the bride and I have decided on the design, workmanship and material. Therefore it is always good to know where the budget limit is.

Hippie, Vintage and Do it yourself

Lace remains a great bridal trend.

What are the bridal fashion trends 2014?

Stronger than in fashion, the top trend in bridal dresses remains. Hipster chic and vintage look are important themes. Wedding couples are looking for the individual and want to stand out from the crowd. That goes for the wedding dress as well as for invitations, location and photographer. The DIY trend is reflected in the celebrations.

What do you recommend brides coming to you?

Do not dress up! Find a wedding dress in which you feel comfortable and want to spend a whole day! Because between the 'yes', the hugs of your wedding party after the wedding, the delicious food, your break dance insert on the dance floor, the last schnapps with shoes in your hand and the undressing on the wedding night in the early morning your happiest day in your life happens , And there you do not need unnecessary gagging on the dress.

What are your other plans?

I am in my third YES YES season and love my work. I dream of a bigger studio and other beautiful brides and beautiful clothes as before. I am looking forward to the fall, when I can take care of the new fabrics and the new designs. Professionally, it may just go on like this. YES YES!