London cheap and spontaneous

It was not love at first sight. But Brompton was too small and too bulky. But I did not have much choice. But maybe I should start from the beginning: how it happens that I drive with a squishy green bike called Brompton through the Hyde Park, on which I feel like a circus clown.

Yesterday I checked in at the "Lime Tree Hotel" in the posh district of Belgravia. Included: my netbook. This computer is small and light as an evening handbag, ideal for surfing the web on the go. And that's exactly how I want to discover London: My guides should be the World Wide Web and the Internet platform "Virtual Tourist". It has over one million members worldwide who regularly exchange travel experiences; more than 13,000 live in London. It would have to be possible to meet at least one or two of them. That's why I have an invitation under the heading "Meetings" published: "London: Who wants to have a nice conversation over beer or wine?" Whether someone answers?

Yesterday afternoon in the garden of the hotel: bees buzz around the rose bushes. And I plan the next day, the netbook on my lap. First ride a bike and see a lot of green. But is that possible in London, a city that almost dies every day from the traffic infarction?

I go to Google Maps page and select a satellite view of the city. That could be enough: a tour through the parks in the city center, then by train to Kew Gardens and from there along the Thames. The Botanic Gardens are located about 13 kilometers from the center. Now find a bike rental through the search engine. The bike shop Velorution is nearby.

That's how I met Mr. Andrea this morning. However, he only rents folding bikes. "The Brompton is the best," said Mr. Andrea, who had noticed my critical look at the strangely folded vehicle. "It's still made in England, and none is better for city traffic."

The longer I go through Hyde Park, the more the bike gets to my heart. It is agile and can be driven effortlessly despite the small tires. But maybe something completely different will release the happy hormones in me: the sun, which breaks silvery in the Serpentine Lake, the wide grassy areas, the trees and this unmistakable smell of summer. Hyde Park is followed by Green Park. And the Buckingham Palace, the official residence of Queen Elizabeth II. At the subway station Embankment I manage to fully fold the wheel back and carry one-handed through the barrier. To the astonishment of some tourists. I feel very professional - and very British. The next Circle Line rattles me to Kew Gardens.

What a view! I literally walk through treetops, dizzying 18 feet above the earthon a tour of iron planks, the "Tree Top Walk". Below me the gardens of Kew. The palm house shines bright white in the sun. Otherwise everything will be green. Later, in the greenhouse, I fly over information signs. For example, Fuchsia exorticata says that Maori virgins once gained color from the blue pollen to paint their faces. For example, Wikipedia does not know that, I realize later.

On the way to the Thames. Past one-story houses, front gardens full of flowers. A park, a pub, a sign warning of ducks crossing the street. Is that still London? For miles I drive along the river, turn somewhere wrong, get lost in a labyrinth of streets and dead ends. No map, no internet, no GPS. So ask. A cyclist explains the way to a subway station, which brings me back to the center.

Fashion designer Annika Sanders once again looks at the dress that she has just staked on a customer, and nods satisfied. "She wants to wear it in Ascot," she says, referring to the famous horse race. After my tour through the green London are the cool corners of the city on the program today. According to the Internet, these are mainly the districts Spitalfields, Shoreditch and Hoxton in East London. And the grounds of the former Truman Brewery, where artists, designers, graphic designers and galleries have settled. And "Junky Styling" by Annika Sanders and Kerry Seager. They recycle high-quality second-hand clothing and tailor it completely: for example, from a men's suit, they make a hooded scarf for women; At the head part one can still recognize a bag of the suit. The designer piece is already available for 50 euros; shopping in London is currently unusually cheap for visitors from the euro area. Recently, Annika Sanders, who has tailored her own style as a teenager, has been choreographing a choreographer. He wanted to receive the coveted trophy in the dress of "Junky Styling" for the awarding of the Tony Awards in New York.

Lunch around the corner, in a decommissioned red double-decker busA few resourceful businessmen have turned it into a vegan restaurant. Below is cooked, served upstairs. Before the stuffed eggplants arrive, I check my emails. An Anne-Marie writes that she is a member of "Virtual Tourist" and have read my invitation. Would I like to meet her in the afternoon in the "Portobello Gold" pub in Notting Hill? I agree and then surf to the homepage of the London public transport: The travel time across the city with Central Line and walk should take about an hour. In the pub "Portobello Gold", sellers from the nearby street market and tourists crowd the bar. I recognize Anne-Marie because I saw her photo at "Virtual Tourist"; It says that she works for a company that ships antiques from Portobello Market all over the world. Anne-Marie brought a friend, Jo. The two also got to know each other via Virtual Tourist.

Two entertaining hours we talk about traveling and about London; They tell me that in a small park called London Fields in Hackney, in the northeast of the city, the epicenter of coolness is supposed to lie. That's what the net, the "Londonfieldlovers Weblog" claims. The park is packed on this sunny and warm evening: People are sitting on the lawn everywhere, drinking beer or wine. Someone is playing guitar. When you define hip-and-dude based on the density of Ray-Ban sunglasses, iPhones, and latest fashion per square foot, the Internet has not lied.

I stay with a group that paints with blue body paint. A grinning man with full beard and forester's hat pushes me a self-mixed Bloody Mary in the hand. That's how I meet Peter, a photographer, the fashion designer Sara, the artist Fen Chey and her clique. As the sun sets over two Bloody Marys later over the park, Sara invites me to the next day at Regent's Park. There she wants to dance with a few like-minded 40s swing.

Incense wafts through the large church, built in the style of the Italian Renaissance, the choir sings Latin hymns - the atmosphere in the Brompton Oratory is almost heavenly. A good start for this Sunday, which I gave the motto "very British". After Mass, I grab a Routemaster at Knightsbridge Station. There are only two more routes on which the old double-decker buses with the open rear entrance go. Among other things, London abolished icons from the 1950s, because jumping up and down between the stations was considered too dangerous. With the Heritage Route 9, I drive past the splendor and glory of the city: at Harrods; Buckingham Palace; the Ritz; Fortnum & Mason, which has been famous for its tea list since 1707, and for its close relationship with the royal family. At Oxford Circus, the bus turns into Regent Street; He fights his way through the stop-and-go traffic at Piccadilly Circus to Trafalgar Square, where a stony Lord Nelson, over 50 meters high, commemorates the glorious battle of 1805.

Ella Fitzgerald's voice echoes through Regent's Park: "I got a kick out of you ..." I found her, the swing dancers. Sara did not tell me exactly where in the park they would practice. Thankfully, I came across a website announcing today's meeting - on a meadow, between two large trees, near the boathouse. Sara did not come. For this I meet David, mid-70s, with tailored suit and tie. "I'm touched every time I hear Ella," he says. Then he grabs a woman who is around 50 years younger than him and who wears a top and army trousers. And the two dance swing, the grass wobbles. At the next song a lady with a huge red hat asks me to dance. Her movements are flowing-elegant, mine resemble choppy contortions. Nevertheless, she thanks me afterwards with perfect British courtesy and even compliments my "innovative style".

The waiter runs down his neck several times with both hands. I booked a table at the "St. John". The restaurant is very popular with Londoners because of the rediscovery of English cuisine. The motto: "nose to tail eating", everything from the nose to the tail of an animal is utilized. The waiter tries to explain to me what's behind the flowery name "Sweetbreads" on the menu, and says to his movements over and over again the word "glands, glands". I do not understand anything, just ask, "Is that good?" The waiter nods, and the dish really tastes excellent and goes well with the dry white wine. In the evening in the hotel I'm curious what I ate. Maybe this time I should not have opened my netbook. The search engine reveals that they were swine glands.

Travel Info London

Now to the Thames: From hotel to fashion you benefit from the favorable exchange rate

getting there

The budget airlines Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly to London from several German airports.However, it is always worth a look at the pages of Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) and British Airways (www.britishairways.com); because with short-term bookings, prices hardly differ.

phone Area code to England 00 44, area code London (0) 20.

find accommodation

Lime Tree Hotel. Nice little hotel in the posh district Belgravia with 25 rooms, rose garden, good breakfast and W-Lan. The young owners Charlotte and Matthew take care of the guests. DZ / F from 135 Euro (135-37 Ebury Street, Tel. 77 30 81 91, www.limetreehotel.co.uk).

Hyde Park Radnor. 36 colorful, plush rooms, centrally located at Paddington station, with Wi-Fi. DZ / F from 100 Euro (7-9 Sussex Place, Tel. 77 23 59 69, Fax 72 62 89 55, www.hydeparkradnor.com).

The City Hotel. Conference hotel with decent rooms near the trendy Brick Lane in the east; currently there is a construction site nearby. DZ / F from about 110 Euro (12-20 Osborn Street, tel. 72 47 33 13, fax 73 75 29 49, www.cityhotellondon.co.uk).

Enjoy

St. John. Modern English cuisine in a cool, understated restaurant. Try: Bone marrow with parsley salad for about eight euros (St. John Bar & Restaurant, 26 St John Street, Tel. 020/72 51 08 48, www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk).

Rootmaster. Vegan restaurant in a decommissioned red double-decker bus. Very tasty dishes (Elys Yard, Old Truman Factory, Brick Lane, Tel. Mobil 079/12 38 93 14, menu at www.root-master.co.uk).

Woo Jung. Cheap Korean restaurant with authentic cuisine. Try: kimchi, spicy cabbage (St Giles High Street, near Tottenham Court Road Subway Station, tel. 78 36 31 03).

Borough Market. London's oldest food market. Here you can have breakfast or lunch, from oysters with champagne to Thai curries to Italian specialties. Saturdays from 9am to 4pm (8 Southwark Street, tel. 74 07 10 02, www.boroughmarket.org.uk).

The Orangery. Former greenhouse of Kensington Palace from the 18th century; spectacular setting for the classic Afternoon Cream Tea with sandwiches, scones and carrot cake for about 16 euros (Kensington Gardens, tel 73 76 02 39).

The Dove Freehouse. Nice pub with 120 beers, near London Fields, where hipsters meet in the evening (24-28 Broadway Market, tel. 72 75 76 17).

202. Stylish restaurant and boutique in one; The mix of fashion designer Nicole Farhi attracts especially the smart residents from Notting Hill (Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, Tel. 77 27 27 22).

shopping

Junky styling. One of London's most innovative stores, which primarily recycles second-hand clothes to completely new fashion. Price Range: 40-400 Euros (12 Dray Walk / Old Truman Brewery, Tel. 72 47 18 83, www.junkystyling.co.uk)

Public Beware. Trendy Japanese fashion boutique, styles from vintage to high tech, often has special offers: dresses from just 30 euros (7 Dray Walk, Spitalfields, Tel. 77 70 62 13).

Traffic People. Clothes are draped here on old overseas suitcases; a lot of vintage, silk and airy-light fabrics for those who long for the splendor of bygone days (61-63 Brushfield Street, tel. 72 47 93 77, www.trafficpeople.net).

Rough Trade East. Iconic record shop, which has now also opened a shop in East London, with café, internet station and live stage; latest underground music, music magazines and books (Dray Walk / Old Truman Brewery, tel: 73 92 77 88, www.roughtrade.com).

Peyton and Byrne. Jams and jellies, muffins, cakes and pies with frosting, different sorts of tea - English does not go (196 Tottenham Court Road, 75 80 34 51).

Miller Harris. Lyn Harris' flagship store in Mayfair with exquisite perfumes. Just stop by and have a cup of tea in the back of the shop (21 Bruton Street, tel. 76 29 77 50, www.millerharris.com).

nightlife

Apartment 195. To get in, you have to press the bell next to the massive black wooden door. Smart cocktail bar, known for its good mojitos (195 Kings Road, Chelsea, tel. 73 49 44 68, www.apartment195.co.uk).

Dreambagsjaguarshoes. Bar and music club, named after the previous store that sells shoes. Audience: from hip to colorful; every few months the walls are painted over with new art. Rambling over the weekend (32-34 Kingsland Road, Hoxton, tel. 77 29 58 30, www.jaguarshoes.com).

Catch. Bar and nightclub bringing together well known and unknown bands from indie to reggae (22 Kingsland Road, Shoreditch, tel. 77 29 60 97, www.thecatchbar.com).

333 Mother. An institution in the East End and one of the hottest clubs. To listen to: www.333mother.com/jukebox.htm (333 Old Street, Tel. 77 39 59 49).

Experience

Green London. Take a bike ride through Hyde, Green and St. James Park, then take the bike to the subway, drive to Kew Gardens, visit the parks and drive along the Thames. Bicycles can be borrowed via: Velorution, Brompton folding bikes for about 20 Euro / day (18 Great Titchfield Street, Tel. 76 37 40 04, www.velorution.biz) or The London Bicycle Tour Company, large selection of bikes for about 22 , 50 Euro / day (1a Gabriel's Wharf, 56 Upper Ground, tel. 79 28 68 38).

Kew Gardens. Fantastic garden, which belongs to the Unesco World Heritage; in southwest London with greenhouses and a breathtaking tree top walk in the treetops. Admission: about 15 euros (subway station Kew Gardens, Tel. 83 32 56 55, www.kew.org).

Routemaster Heritage Route. On two beautiful routes (Route 9 and 15) drive the original double-decker buses from the 50s and 60s, past major sights in London, at a very normal fare.

Brompton Oratory. Impressive church from 1884, in Italian Renaissance style. The church choir is one of the best in the world, several times a week Mass in Latin (Brompton Road, South Kensington, Tel. 78 08 09 00, www.bromptonoratory.com).

Read

To prepare and for the handbag: Polyglot Citybox "London" with 30 tours on foot through the city (9,95 Euro).

London on the Internet

Official homepage of the city, many tips: www.visitlondon.com London Public Transport; Helpful to find routes and calculate the travel time: www.tfl.gov.uk Internet offshoot of the famous city magazine; with a comprehensive online event calendar, from readings by famous authors to underground musical gigs: www.timeout.com/london

Travel platform "Virtual Tourist"

Travel portal with over one million members, including more than 13,000 in London; They provide restaurant and overnight tips and suggestions on what to do in the city. Members also organize meetings: www.virtualtourist.com

A spontaneous trip to London (April 2024).