Ibiza: Does the island keep what it promises?
Celebrate until dawn - is that still possible?
The beats hammer in my stomach. On the dance floor a billowing, steaming mass. Thousands of arms stretching in time to the beat. If I jumped up, I could see the divine David Guetta on his DJ gallery. But I'm sandwiched between frenetic young hoppers. An elbow hits my ribs, heels on my toes. Alcohol breath brushes my face. I fight to the door of the "Pacha" and catch my breath. It's three o'clock in the morning, and people are still queuing up to join the legendary club. And in me germinates the question: Am I perhaps too old for Ibiza?
Celebrate and dance until dawn? that's why the island is famous in the Mediterranean. And for the crazy feeling that everything is possible. Just like back then, in this hot summer 22 years ago: I was here with two friends for the first time. The hammer, at least in my memory. I wanted to experience that again! So, excitedly, I got a ticket for the "Pacha" for the evening of my arrival. 75 euros. For that, I thought naively, you will certainly be maintained in the first row.
Well, the ticket seller says smugly smiling the next day and waving a 550 Euro card for a VIP table: "You would have had to invest more than that would not have happened to you." And for 5000, he reveals, I would have come so close to David Guetta that I could have touched him. Ibiza's party world has its own laws. Nowhere else are there so many mega-clubs: "Amnesia", "Space", "Privilege", "DC 10", "Ushuaia" ... You just have to know where on what day something is going on. Because I do not feel like chasing after that, no, I do not feel like it anymore.
How good that yoga is offered everywhere ...
First come down. Best with yoga. This is offered everywhere, in hotels, on the beach, in beach clubs and private homes. I drive to Carina Bo in the hinterland of Sant Josep in the south, half an hour's drive from the capital Eivissa. There lives the Austrian on a finca, hidden in the countryside. Birds twitter, the view sweeps over pine trees to the sea. The air caresses me like silk. It is infinitely pleasant to sit on the mat under gentle instructions, to breathe, to stretch my body, to find the balance on one leg. After that I feel refreshed as seldom. For the yoga teacher this is normal: "Ibiza has a very special energy that you can not find elsewhere."
"In Ibiza, you can be what you really are!"
Carina, curly-haired man, barely thirty, bendable like a blade of grass, felt attracted to the island like a magnet. She came here again and again. Until she left her old life as a teacher and her full name, Bogner, and stayed. "It's the spirit of Ibiza, you can be here the way you really are, no matter where you come from, whether you're a cleaner or celebrity, and no matter what your age." How nice to hear that.
She recommends the north to me. The island is tiny, only a scarce sixth of Mallorca, from the south to the north I drive only three quarters of an hour, through surprisingly quiet, unspoilt hills landscape: sheep doze under gnarled fig trees, pine forests and broom cover rocky hills, dry stone walls frame fields , on red soil grow grapevines, plump lemon and olive trees. In the background rises the wild mountain range "Es Amunts", the few villages are lime white.
In Sant Joan, Sunday is market in all lanes, the mood is serene and peaceful. The band on the shady church square may not be dewy, but their blues go in very deep. A blonde with dreadlocks makes hula hoops circle? she is in her 50s, about my age. The smell of incense mixes with that of hashish. Between the farmers who sell their vegetables, the hippies have their stalls. Pretty gray-haired, most of them. But credit card payment is not a problem. Even flower children go with the times, and with their arts and crafts, they earn money neatly: funky dresses and leather vests, rose pillows and wind chimes, handbags with fringes and gorgeous colorful jewelry.
I address an elfin woman at her aloe vera stall, she will be in her late sixties. She wears a lilac-colored flattering skirt and floral wreath in blond-gray hair that wraps around her delicate, wrinkled face. Angela del Cueto is beaming at me, telling of the days when Ibiza was still a poor farming country. At that time, too, 40 years ago, she came from the mainland, then dark Franco-Spain to Ibiza, together with many others from Germany, the USA, France, Italy, to seek freedom and love.
Did she find these? "But yes, the feeling continues today." That's because of the mix of people, all the dissenters, intellectuals and artists who whistle on conventions.In addition, the special magic of the island, "you will not find in gray cities". All this gives her inner strength and joy. How natural she says that, how young she works. There is nothing contrived or fake. She lives that. And it fades, at least for the moment.
I found the most beautiful beach
Two days later: My feet play with soft fine sand. Cozy I lean against a sun-warmed stone. Ibiza has 60 beaches. I have found the most beautiful, the "Cala d? En Serra" high in the north. A hidden, drop-shaped bay, framed by rugged, pine-clad rocks, on one side ancient fishing huts. The sea is outrageously turquoise and crystal clear, garnished with three white sailboats.
There is no waiter in white polo, no champagne bottles in the silver ice bucket, no four-poster beds as in the glamorous beach clubs "Blue Marlin" or "Amante" in the south. Of course I was there too and felt like in the "Raffaello" commercial. Nobody looked at my age, and dancing in the open air was nice. But here, at the "Cala d? En Serra", there are comfortable loungers for only seven euros, casual chillout music and a palm-frond-covered hut, where the Dutchman Remy and his Spanish girlfriend Esti Mojitos mix for nine euros.
Instead of Party-Gedröhn's Soulmusik live
At sunset, I drive to the beach of Benirras on the west coast, where Nina Hagen at the age of 32, a 17-year-old punk free. Today, all the drummers of the island seem to be gathering, paying homage to the sun, accompanied by dancing women. For hours, always ecstatic. It seems a little ridiculous to me, standing stiff as a stick and think, they just want to make money on the show. A man with a well-toned upper body promptly reaches for a tray? But there are ripe apricots, for free, to try.
All of a sudden, the wind comes up, everyone stops, looks to the sea. It glows. And the sun is sinking, glowing orange in the waves. Once again the drums are full, it's like a pull. I leave myself to the rhythm, can no longer escape the magical atmosphere. By contrast, the "Cafe del Mar", which is heavily traded for its sunset shows, feels like a cuddle song at the all-inclusive hotel promenade in Sant Antoni.
Great how Ibiza creates space for all these worlds. The locals take it with equanimity. "We've seen so many coming and going, Phoenicians, Romans, Moors, my home is always reinventing itself," says Maria Bufi, whom I meet in Santa Gertrudis in the middle of the island. An unpretentious pretty, by his residents very well-kept village. Maria grew up here, a doctor, mother of two daughters, down to earth. She prefers to sit in the bar "Costa" after work, outside on small wooden stools, like her father. She eats a "Completo", a warm roll with ham and cheese, a beer and a "Hierbas", the typical island liqueur.
The main city of Eivissa crumbles in a picturesque way
When Maria goes out, then in the old town of Eivissa. This is called "Dalt Vila" and stretches up a hill like a pyramid, surrounded by meter-thick Renaissance fortress walls, above which gurgles the fortified cathedral. A maze of bumpy streets and nested houses, many perfectly restored, while others crumbling in a picturesque way. Stairways on which cafes spread, facades where gaudy bougainvillea foams, places where the laundry dries. Boutiques, fine lounges, flashy gay pubs, funky basement bars, restaurants from sushi to burgers.
I order pulpo carpaccio in the "La Oliva", very tightly crouched here at white-laid tables, just behind the drawbridge. Local and package tourists, English bridesmaids, glamorous dazzling daughters with Prada glasses, transvestites, aging playboys: everyone comes here. An elegant couple at the next table, French, talks about the "Lio", the hottest club at the moment for older gentlemen at the Marina Botafoch, where allegedly wealthy sheikhs with long-legged girls in their arms spend 5000 euros just for champagne.
Without me, I think calmly. Instead, I sit down next to the "Lio" in the "Cafe? Cappuccino", play little mouse and enjoy the view over Eivissa's harbor on the illuminated old town.
Later, I end up in the "Teatro", the favorite bar of Maria, the doctor from Santa Gertrudis. A really good live music store in the anteroom of an old theater. Exuberant people, mixed. The band plays soul, and there is enough room to dance! It's only four o'clock when I'm in bed. I too old for Ibiza?
Ibiza: The best tips for the Balearic Island
Hostal la Torre. On this terrace you sit in the first row for a sunset: the family guesthouse with restaurant stands in the middle of the wild nature of Cap Negret near Sant Antoni on the west coast. 17 small rooms with white walls, terracotta floors and cushions in sundowner colors. DZ / F from 109 Euro (Cap Negret 25, Tel. 971/34 22 71, www.latorreibiza.com).
Hotel Rocamar. The small hotel from the 1950s defends, freshly renovated and bright white, its place next to the noble hotels, restaurants and clubs at the Marina Botafoch in the island's capital Eivissa. The rooms: modern, bright and simple. DZ / F from 84 Euro (Carrer d? Iboshim 11, Tel. 971/31 79 22, www.rocamaribiza.es).
Agroturismo Sa Talaia. Away from the hustle and bustle, I felt like I was in this boutique-style, hundreds-of-a-century country estate in the west, with just twelve rooms. A rental car is there (except in August) for free. DZ / F from 160 Euro (Ses Paisses, Puig 8, Tel. 971/34 15 57, www.satalaiaibiza.com).
S? Argamassa Villas. Enchanting holiday development in Santa Eulalia / East Coast with 15 dream villas and restaurant. Well-kept gardens, quiet location. Each house has pool, barbecue area, three bedrooms, three bathrooms and a kitchen. Daily is cleaned. From 350 euros per night (S? Argamassa 103, Tel. 971/33 12 25, www.sargamassavillas.com).
Restaurante S? Illot of the Rencli. Ink blue the sea, red and rugged the rocks that frame the small bay in the north. Above that, on a hill, you can sit under pines, enjoy sole and homemade chips for around 22 euros and drink white wine for about 2 euros (Sant Joan de Labritja, Ctra Portinatx km 25.3, Tel. 971/32 05 85 ).
Can Cires. My discovery for lunch is this country inn on the island west with a blooming garden. On the menu Alsatian (!) And Ibizan dishes, eg. B. Lamb shoulder with cherries. Lunch € 10 (Sant Mateu d? Albarca, Tel. 971/80 55 51, www.restaurantecancires.com).
La Oliva. Nothing for lovers for two, but a wonderful box seat in a romantic old town street of Eivissa. Simply the wooden tables and chairs, casually the ambience, and the food nevertheless no trivial matter; I particularly liked the tuna steak with ratatouille vegetables (27 euros). Always full, so book ahead of time (Carrer la Santa Creu 2, Tel. 971/30 57 52, www.laolivaibiza.com).
It's Boldado. Unforgettable view of the mystical rock Es Vedrà off the south coast. In the simple but rather expensive restaurant above Cala d? Hort, I recommend seafood paella for 24 euros per person (Sant Josep de sa Talaia, Cala d'Hort, Tel. 626 49 45 37, www.restauranteboldado.net).
Bar Anita. Since the wild 60s an institution in the northeast of the island: from morning until after midnight squats a colorful mixed folk in the cozy courtyard at simple wooden tables, pecking ham and cheese for about 8 € and drinks the self-brewed herbal liqueur for just under 2.50 euros ( Sant Carles, Lugar Barri San Carlos).
Moda Adlib. Pepa Bonett is a well-known designer of Ibiza's so-called "Adlib" fashion, which means "how you like it". Traditionally made of white cotton, straightforward, but also with romantic ruffles and lace. The shop in Eivissa is a treasure trove? and surprisingly inexpensive (C / Baleares 6, www.pepabonett.com).
World Family Ibiza. A big family is behind the cool Ibiza fashion in hippie look, especially the Dutch ex-model Merel. Where? In Sant Joan de Labritja in the north (Ctra Sant Joan km 17, www.worldfamilyibiza.com).
Sluiz. Turned-down department store for beautiful iridescent accessories in Santa Gertrudis (PM-804 km 4, www.sluizibiza.com).
Laturquessa. Here in Sant Carles / northeast there's gorgeous jewelery made of pearls, stones and crystals in crazy colors (Ve? Nda d? Atzaro? Local 5B).
Yoga with Carina Bo. In the south of the island, the Austrian offers in a secluded finca with sea views in the hills before Sant Josep hours, 15 euros, private hour 80 euros (Tel: 611 20 53 67, www.beyogi-ibiza.com).
Cala d? En Serra. My dream beach, secluded in the north at Portinatx with beach shack without any Chichi; Lounger and umbrella each seven euros.
Cala Comte. In the southwest, almost too good to be true? and very well visited: the water was wonderfully clear, three beach areas, great sunset parties (taxi boats from the port in Sant Antoni).
Es Cavallet. At this one and a half kilometer long, white dune beach in the south, near the nature reserve Ses Salines everyone finds his place, also nudists. Very relaxed is the beach restaurant "Chiringuito".
Bars and clubs
Teatro Pereyra. My tip for a happy evening in Eivissa with live music. No entry ? and there is something going on at 10 pm (Carrer del Conde de Rossello? 3, www.teatropereyra.com).
km5. Casual-decadent: Dine in stylish Bedouin tents here in the south, later DJs in the garden (Sant Josep de sa Talaia, Ctra Sant Josep km 5, www.km5-lounge.com).
Blue Marlin, In probably the most famous beach club in the world on the Cala Jondal / southeast one must have been. Sunday from 16 o'clock is the best moment: put on sunglasses, sip cocktail, beauties look (Eivissa, Passeig Joan Carles I, 1, www.bluemarlinibiza.com).
Amante Beach Club. Spectacularly carved into the cliff above the small bay of Cala Sol d? En Serra in the north, with stunning views of the sea. Relaxed music, intimate atmosphere. Delicious: the vegetable risotto for 14 euros. Definitely book (Santa Eulalia des Ríu, Cala Sol d'en Serra, Tel. 971/19 61 76, www.amanteibiza.com)
Good to know
If you do not want Rambazamba around the clock, you should avoid August: the island is full of hotels, the hotels two to three times as expensive as in the off-season, and in most restaurants, nothing goes without reservation. Already from mid / end of May, when the clubs open, can you take a bath? and until at least the beginning of October, matching the closing parties.
Area code for Spain is the 00 34. Then dial the full specified number; lacks the 971 as area code, it is a mobile phone.