Genoa! The addresses for a great weekend
Benvenuti a Genoa!
Genoa is the capital of the Liguria region and lies on the Mediterranean coast in northwestern Italy. The city with its numerous boulevards is particularly marked in the medieval center of palaces such as the "Palazzo Ducale". The best thing: You can make city and beach holiday at the same time - but hardly anyone knows the latter ...
Cheap and familiar stay
"Hotel Colombo". Colorful three-star house. None of the colorful rooms in the small, friendly hotel are like the other. Centrally located, DZ / F from 110 Euro (Via Porta Soprana 27, Tel. 00 39/010/251 36 43, www.hotelcolombo.it).
"Hotel Le Nuvole". Airy design, surrounded by frescoes and flowery stucco? 15 bright rooms in a medieval palazzo of the old town. Double / F from 90 Euro (Piazza delle Vigne 6, Tel. 00 39/010/251 00 18, www.hotellenuvole.it).
"Bed & Breakfast Vecchia Genova". Two cuddly rooms and a mini-suite whose ceilings are supported by century-old masts. Very warm atmosphere, breakfast with regional organic products, in summer on the flower terrace between the roofs of the old town. DZ / F from 90 Euro (Via Cairoli 8 interno 5, www.vecchiagenova.com).
Focaccia and licorice ice cream
Simply delicious when fresh from the oven: focaccia© Jansen / istockphoto.com
Hotel buffet down, coffee standing up? Focaccia with cappuccino, the typical Genoese breakfast, you should definitely try. If this salty-sweet combination is too intense in the morning: Focaccia is available throughout the day in every bakery, warm from the tin, plain with olive oil, with onions or cheese.
The "Trattoria della Raibetta" is as good as Mamma's home, where pesto and pasta are still made by themselves. Chef Carlo has learned at the nonna (grandma), his wife Chiara allegedly tried all 200 wines of the house (vico Caprettari 10-12, Tel. 246 88 77, www.trattoriadellaraibetta.it).
An oasis in the old town is the "Ombre Rosse": The garden restaurant serves Ligurian and vegetarian dishes, as well as salads and fresh juices (vico Indoratori 20-24r, tel. 275 76 08).
The "Antica Osteria di Vico Pala" is an institution: Here you will find fish dishes in an old warehouse on Porto Antico. Reservations (Closed Mon, vico Pala 15r, Tel. 246 65 75, www.anticaosteriavicopalla.com).
Heavenly dreamy is the painted salon of the cafe "Cambi". The pastry comes from one of the best patisseries in the city (Vico Falamonica 1r, Tel. 010 975 26 74, www.cambicafe.com).
Those who love their creamy ice cream are in good hands in "La Cremeria delle Erbe". Whether almond, liquorice or panera, the half-frozen Genoese favorite ice cream with caffè - all to the knees. (Piazza delle Erbe 15r).
Discover the city
Cimitero di Staglieno? one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe© imago / CHROMORANGE
A nice introduction to the hustle and bustle of the old town streets is the Piazza de Ferrari. From there, walk down the Vico Falamonica to Piazza Sziglia. The historic center stretches not only around the cathedral of San Lorenzo, but down to the harbor.
Cemetery Staglieno. Monumental, poetic, a festival of sculpture - one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe located on a slope in the eponymous district. In the summer like a bewitched park (Piazzale Resasco, www.staglieno.eu, buses 12, 14, 34, 48).
To get an idea of the once immeasurable wealth of Genoa, you can walk through the Via Garibaldi with its magnificent palaces of nobility ("Palazzi dei Rolli"), which today belong to the World Heritage and once hosted high visitors to the mighty port city (Info: IAT via Garibaldi 12r, daily 9-18.20, tel. 557 29 03, www.visitgenoa.it).
The "Viadelcampo29rosso" is a small museum dedicated to Genoese songwriters, especially the legendary Fabrizio de Andrè, who has sung his city in all its contradictions. Closed Mon (Via del Campo 29, www.viadelcampo29rosso.com).
In a cool garden high above the harbor and the humming of the city lies the "Castello d'Albertis" in the castle of Captain Albertis - today an ethnological museum, which shows the collection of the former resident. Closed Mon (Corso Dogali 18, 010 272 38 20, www.castellodalbertis.museidigenova.it).
Elevators take you comfortably to the upper districts, for example from Piazza Portello to the Belvedere Montaldo, a panoramic terrace overlooking the old town and harbor.
However, the only true perspective on Genoa is from the sea: for example, on the ferry back from Camoglie, a picturesque town on the Riviera, as it drives into the almost circular bay of the old port, above which Genoa rises like an amphitheater Camoglie by regional train in 20 minutes, back from Port Camoglie, info at www.golfoparadiso.it).
Although there are no long sandy beaches in Genoa, but the gravel coves and rocks are ideal for swimming and sunbathing. The chain of beach resorts begins already in the center of the district Foce on Corso Italia. Spectacularly beautiful is the bathing fun in Nervi on the outskirts. A walkway stretches between the extensive park and rocks over the sea and ends at a creek. You can get there by regional train or bus 15.
Bagni Santa Chiara. Tiny Lido in a hidden bay behind Boccadasse. Perfect for letting the day off and fancying you would be elsewhere, but not guaranteed in Genoa. At the latest after the sunset aperitif you never want to go away (via Flavia, open May to mid-September).
to go shopping
"Drogheria Torielli". One of the museums of Genoa that has fallen out of time: shelves full of glasses with handwritten labels filled with spice and herbal mixtures, teas, jams and flavored chocolates. There are also great soaps from Liguria and exotic countries. Wednesday afternoon closed (Via di San Bernardo 32).
"ViaGaribaldi12". Modern design in the 16th-century ambience - where, if not in the opulently decorated halls of a "Palazzo dei Rolli", could this shop have been better adapted to exquisite everyday objects? Sun and Mon closed (Via Garibaldi 12, 1st floor, tel. 25 30 365, www.viagaribaldi12.com).
"Gramole". Peppered or rather fruity? Fine olive oils from Liguria and other regions of Italy, for tasting and buying (via Dei Macelli di Soziglia, 69 R, www.legramole.com).
To the tuning
The crime series around the investigator Nelly Rosso (Rosa Cerrato: The evil blood of Dona Luna, Aufbau Verlag, 9.90 euros).
More information about the city: www.visitgenoa.it.
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Colorful houses on the peninsula of Portofino, about 35 km east of Genoa© Freesurf / Fotolia.com