Formula Napoli
In the old town, all roads are actually too narrow for driving. But only sometimes too tight ...
Amsterdam can be discovered by bike, Paris by metro. The real Naples is supposed to be recognized best through the windshield. If you dare. I grab photographer Anna-Lisa in the passenger seat and get a risky tour of her hometown: a car safari through bella Napoli. If that is a good idea?
Left: My panda and me. At the airport, our wild weekend getaway begins
Thoroughbred Italians have respect for the traffic chaos here. All of them are Formula 1 World Champions from birth. I'm probably tired of life, but I have a mission: get to know Naples and be fluent in Italian.
Totally hysterical, infinitely serene - a trip to Naples changes life
We start our tour in the historic old town. In unbelievably narrow streets Omis chats on the street, schoolchildren run for lunch, and boys bring their girls home on the beloved scooter Motorino. Where is there still room for me? Very carefully, I steer the Fiat through the alleyways. I realize why so many small cars come from Italy. A big wolf loon would not fit here. The next moment a Motorino squeezes right past me, while I'm left hanging with the side mirror in a drying rack full of socks. In front of me are pedestrians, an Alfa is pressing behind me. That's enough, German was yesterday. I am honoring grandmothers and couples in love. But instead of angry words or outstretched middle fingers, I reap appreciative smiles and understanding looks.
In the pedestrian precincts you are as safe from cars as in one of the idyllic cafes
Driving a car takes on a completely different dimension. I maneuver out of the chaos and leave the lively area around the "Spaccanapoli". This is what the endless, straight-through Via Benedetto Croce is called because it splits the city ("spacca"), so you can see through it in both directions.
Above all, driving a car means communication. The friendly sergeant admires our progress.
Sfogliatelle and Gelati - La Dolce Vita to take away
Next, Anna-Lisa will guide me to modern Naples. Via Toledo, the shopping street in the center. Here are the branches of the Italian fashion chains Phard, Mötivi and Benetton; just around the corner, in the Chiaia district: Armani, Gucci and Versace. On chic clothes, the Neapolitans attach great importance. But their cars look like bumper cars: dented doors, dangling side mirrors, depressed taillights. That's the price you pay by holding red lights, turn signals, crosswalks, and solid lines for bells and whistles.
In San Lorenzo, the alternative artist district, we want to take a break. But where did the panda go for so long? You are lucky if you find a parking space. And good luck if the car is still there after the cappuccino. Anna-Lisa solves the problem Neapolitan: In each quarter there are self-appointed parking guards babysitting the car for a few euros. Our husband is Antonio Delprete. He defends his territory successfully for more than 30 years against the competition. "It's important that people know you and trust you," says Signor Delprete. "When they're in the second row, they give me their keys so I can park the car." Of course, tourists dare not do that. But who wants to be a tourist? With mediocre feeling I pass Antonio the car key and two euros processing fee. Our discovery tour through the artist district continues on foot. In front of his antique shop, an old man is painting older furniture, while in Piazza Bellini, students are discussing in the sun and drinking latte macchiato. We are now in the mood for the well-known Panini in the literature café Intra Moenia. Here it is surprisingly quiet and peaceful for a big city. The noise is not heard, although San Lorenzo lies in the middle of the raging Naples. I would like to say that it smells wonderful here. After sea or flowers or sweet yeast pastry, the "sfogliatella". But because the Neapolitans even drive to the bakery around the corner by car, it does not smell in the city to Dolce, but to exhaust.
The car crazy drive everywhere, the football crazy play everywhere.
Enjoy the view of the water with the eyes of Sophia Loren
I can not blame them. Driving in Naples is simply addictive. The pulse beats fast to 180, and all the senses are extremely sharpened. The Motorini hiss like wasps on both sides of our Fiat over. I experience the city as if into a frenzy and, viewed from a German point of view, drive as badly as I can.But my driving style is rewarded here: As we, like everyone else, turn from the wrong side in a one-way street, a bus driver flashing us and wildly waving his arms. He warns us of a police check at the end of the street. Not with us, Carabinieri!
Motorino, mi amor (above); One-way? Two train? No matter. Reinfah'n (u.)
We turn sporty and hear the passenger in the car next to us cuss, because his friend winked us: "On the road you should look, idiot - not on the Ragazze!" Anna-Lisa and I have one last mission this weekend. We want to see the sea through the eyes of Sophia Loren. We take the coastal road towards Pozzuoli, the home village of the film diva. The sun is already low over the sea. I put on my sunglasses, turn the Italo-Poprock on the radio a little louder and feel damn Italian. In Pozzuoli we eat ice cream at the harbor and ask a sweet Italian for the easiest way back to the main road. "Refer the cops, then let them drive you through the pedestrian zone." The tip works and we drive through the night back to Naples. In the city I turn automatically on a forbidden bus lane, and Anna-Lisa exclaims in delight: "Simona, you're driving like a real Italian!"
Arrive and live
If you book early, www.hlx.de gets flights from 19,99 euros across Germany. Easyjet (www.easyjet.de) is already flying for 5.99 euros, unfortunately only from Berlin-Schönefeld. Centrally located hotels from charming to luxurious can be found at www.venere.com, Bed & Breakfast at www.hotel.portanapoli.com.
Left: The most beautiful sunset of Naples is daily in the fishing village Pozzuoli; Center: If everyone turns left at the same time, the notorious swastika traffic jam occurs; Right: The smaller the Fiat, the more parking space.
Driving in Napoli
The perfect car for the bustling city center is as small as possible and, if you value a bump-free body, preferably not your own. The horn considers the Neapolitaner more important than the rearview mirror. Principle One focuses primarily on what happens before you. Everyone does that, and that's why it works quite well. Traffic rules are "interpreted", eye contact and a smile make driving easier. Cynicism and stubborn insistence on the highway code - as usual with us - are very frowned upon. Rent a car With the cheap flight providers, e.g. www.hlx.de or Easyjet, you can book a car right away. Our Fiat Panda has cost Sixt nearly 100 euros including CDW (disclaimer for damage to the car, important!) For the long weekend (check offers). The cars are ready at the airport. Parking garage It is best to set the car overnight. That's not cheap (about 20 euros in the center), but the trip on the next day does not have to go on foot. Valuables Leave nothing visible in the car - but that's probably clear, right? Central locking Also while driving, keep the buttons pressed down, otherwise at the traffic light - door open, shut, door closed - the handbag or similar can quickly disappear. Parking agent, private In almost every street, a self-proclaimed car park guard regulates the allocation of rare and often very narrow gaps for a "fee" of about 2 euros. He also takes care of parking and guarding the car. Whether one puts the keys in his hand, pays and goes, as our Neapolitan photographer Anna-Lisa does, everyone has to decide for themselves.
to eat and drink
Gli Sfizi di Napoli Via Benedetto Croce 53: In the mini-snack near the Spaccanapoli, there are Napoli specialties on hand. Pizzeria da Michele Via C. Sersale 1: Neon light, plastic tables and only two varieties, Margherita or Marina (each 4 euros). For Michele has opened from 8 to 24 clock and the best pizza in Naples - Anna-Lisa. And the long line will find it too. SorRiso Integral Piazza Bellini (backyard): vegetarian dishes from 8 euros. It is cooked only with organic ingredients. Pasticceria Capriccio Via San Biago 327: Café selling street food. Legendary: Babá made of flaky yeast dough with rumsirup for 80 cents. La Scimmia Piazzetta Nilo 4: modern gelateria. Definitely try: "children", creamy with chocolate pieces.
shopping
London Via Nilo 7: Diesel, Roxy, Levi's and reduced exhibits. A few doors down: the sneakers branch for boys - and us (Italians have small feet). Pietro Pellegrino Via Chiaia 37 (backyard): First you look for leather, sole and heels. Then the individual sandals are adjusted at the foot (30 to 115 euros). Phard Via Toledo 154: Indie look and cowboy boots. Beautiful accessories such as knitted bags are available from 60 euros. Mötivi Via Toledo 156: the Italian counterpart to Zara. Calzedonia Via Paia 174: nylons from net to flower meadow with embroidered wool blossoms. Yamamai Via Toledo 272: The Italians understand something of beautiful underwear. Here you can buy them. Amore for all.
Do not miss
Galeria Umberto I Piazza Triesto e Trento: shopping arcade with a dome made of steel and glass over 57 meters high. Especially nice: the Galeria is illuminated at night. Sunset in front of Certosa di San Martino, overlooking the city, Mount Vesuvius and the Gulf of Naples.How to get there: by car or by cable car from Via Toledo. Gambrinus Via Chiaia 1? 2: The large rooms of the café, founded in 1860, are decorated with marble, stucco and gold. Verdi has already had his coffee here. Pintauro Via Toledo 275: Legend has it that in the 18th century the "Sfogliatella" was invented in this bakery. A confectionery pastry in which all Neapolitans are in love. "Nona Rosa" (with cream filling) for 2 euros.
Hidden treasures
Eva Luna Piazza Bellini 72: Bookstore for women. Classic by Jane Austen, modern by Banana Yoshimoto and mystical stories around Naples. If you do not speak Italian, buy accessories or scratch the cat in the backyard. www.evaluna.it Scultore Cesarini Via S. Gregorio Armeno 11: Around the Spaccanapoli the whole year is Christmas. The greatest saintly figures are made by Master Cesarini.
Get out of the city
Capri By ferry ("Traghetto", about 5 euros) it goes from Molo Beverello on the much sung island. At the port of Marina Grande you can take the mountain railway (2.60 euros) to Capri city. Pozzuoli Sophia Loren grew up in the small village. Surely she had already turned the fisherman's head. Directions: Stay on the coastal road to the west and turn up the radio loudly.
go out
Intra Moenia Piazza Bellini 70: relaxed atmosphere and delicious food. In the literary café there is saltimbocca (toasted flatbread with ham, cheese, rocket, etc.) for 4 to 7 euros. In good weather, the night people frolicking outside in the piazza. Anema e Cozze Via Partenope 15/18: Salads from 5 euros, Birra (beer) 3.50 euros. The staircase next to the restaurant bar is used as a large terrace - with a romantic view over the sea over to Mergellina. Fonoteca Via Raffaele Morghen 31: Bar, lounge and record shop. In the simple 1970s atmosphere, apart from beer and long drinks, vinyl is sold from electro to rock. Tip: The magazine Zero with information about clubs, bars and parties is everywhere for free.
