• April 19, 2024

Cosmetics from flowers - Thanks for the flowers

Picking, researching, healing

When Annette Greco talks about plants, she sounds affectionate. As if describing complex personalities. The white-violet eyebright, for example, also called Euphrasia, is a remarkable plant. "Euphrasia docks onto other plants and gets nutrients and water from them, but it does not simply consume, it even refines these nutrients," explains Dr. Rainer's product developer. Hauschka. "And roses!", She raves on, "they are full of vitality, that shows their lush flowering." Delicate magnificence, but sturdy thorns, the process of dying, which begins with the heyday: "From these contrasts the rose makes its beauty." This is how Annette Greco approaches herbalology. She first looks at the character, pays attention to the certain peculiarities and only then explores the biological connections. "Every special feature has subtle causes, which are worth exploring, because they can also be beneficial for skin care," explains the pharmacist and naturopath. What makes flowers so valuable for health and beauty? "Her metabolic processes are very dynamic, so her essences can also stimulate the metabolism of the skin." An important prerequisite for their vitality, freshness and resilience.



From folk medicine to science

© Keith Schofield

"The great thing about blossoms is that they contain a whole bundle of different active ingredients," says Dr. Bruno Frank, pharmacist and member of the board of the Phytotherapy Society. "So they're like a broadband that can help the skin in several ways, and in addition, the extracts of different plants work synergistically to complement and support each other," Dr. Frank. The beneficial properties of flowers such as calendula, arnica, chamomile, lavender are proven by scientific studies. Others rely on centuries of experience in folk medicine. Some traditions have their origins in medieval monasteries, where nuns and monks cultivated gardens and dealt intensively with botany, inscribed knowledge and recipes, as it did about the Benedictine Hildegard von Bingen in the 12th century. If you would like to see how medicinal plants are grown: Hauschka offers guided tours through its garden in summer and autumn, and the medicinal plant garden at Weleda is also open to guests on a regular basis.

How is the flower in the cream?

© Keith Schofield

For care products flowers are processed differently. For example, they are stored in oil until their active ingredients have dissolved in them. "Freshly picked flowers can also be placed in spring water and rest there for several days or hours.The water with its extracts is squeezed out and then used," explains Dr. Hauschka expert Annette Greco. "And to extract essential oils, steam is allowed to flow through the petals that carry the oils, and these oils are finally scavenged from the chilled water." If flowers are put in alcohol, they form what are known as ancient tinctures. In the truest sense of the word, plant science is a wide field for cosmetics manufacturers, and much research is still needed. Pharmacist Frank has recently raved about the herbaceous plant Wau, also called Reseda, whose flowers and leaves are rich in flavonoids. Luteolin, which has a lot to offer, has anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, antioxidant and anti-allergic properties, as well as alleviating sun damage that accelerates skin aging. "Studies by the University of Freiburg have proven the effectiveness of the yellow herb." So far, the cosmetics manufacturers have not yet brought a product with the flower on the market? but who knows, maybe they're already working on it in their labs ...



The power of the flowers: who can do something

Calendula repairs irritated skin

The nun and herbal expert Hildegard von Bingen already knew the medicinal properties of calendula (Calendula officinalis) in the Middle Ages. According to the religious's recipe, flowers were gently simmered in fat and then filtered out. The chilled fat with the active ingredients could be used as an ointment. The orange calendula flowers also contain a lot of power: carotenoids, which are converted into vitamin A by the addition of oil and stimulate the regeneration of the skin; Flavonoids, saponins and triterpenes act against inflammation and promote wound healing. In addition, the marigold strengthens the skin barrier and thus protects it against bacteria, viruses and fungi. On top of that, it stimulates blood circulation. For sensitive skin: "Calendula Deep Cleansing Foaming Wash" from Kiehl's, about 27 Euro.For redness: Emergency cure "Stress Balance - Skin calming Ampoule" by Declaré, about 22 euros. For the hands: "Repair & Care SOS Hand Balm" by Nivea, approx. 3 Euro. For the hair: "Marigold Shampoo" for shine and care, from Lavera, about 4 euros.

Camomile inhibits inflammation

In the essential oil of chamomile put the active ingredients bisabolol and azulen, both stimulate the healing process of the skin and are anti-inflammatory. Azulen converts the cell-damaging free radicals (caused for example by UV radiation, stress and nicotine) into harmless biochemical compounds for the skin. In hot water, however, only a small part of the essential oil dissolves from the flowers. For steam baths, good about with impure skin, therefore, a few drops of camomile solution, z. B. from the pharmacy or health food store, are dripped. For very dry skin: 24-hour cream "Phyto Care Azulene" by Dr. med. Grandel, about 23 euros. For every skin type: "camomile cream" soothes dry, inflammatory parts, by Charlotte Meentzen, about 11 euros; Face Mask "Camomile Azulen Pack" by Dr. med. R.A. Corner stone, about 9 euros; "Calming eye cream chamomile borage" from Primavera, about 26 euros.



Arnica relieves swelling

Arnica is a wild meadow flower and is under protection of species in many countries. In the meantime, however, it has been possible to breed a species suitable for field cultivation: Arnica montana. Luckily, because like chamomile and marigold, their active ingredients stop inflammatory processes in the skin (such as sunburn) and provide relief from bruises and insect bites. "Arnica ointment S" from Kneipp, about 6 euros; Körpertonic "Arnica Vital Fluid" from Allgäu mountain pine, approx. 19 Euro; Night care "Confort Extreme Soin de Nuit" with extracts of arnica and echinacea, from Sisley, about 141 euros; "Skin Refining Mask" for the oily, impure skin, from Dermalogica, about 50 euros.

Rose moisturizes

For the skin care predominantly the Damaszener rose is used. It was bred over 3000 years ago in Persia. In antiquity, the Greek doctor recommended Galen Rosenwasser for skin injuries, and Hildegard von Bingen found out in the Middle Ages that rose petal compresses help irritated eyes. The essential oil of the rose contains vitamins and is said to help the skin to retain moisture, while its aromatic scent is considered a mood enhancer. In general, the oil is a particularly valuable resource: For one liter of oil, four to five tons of flowers are needed. They are harvested before sunrise, because in the course of the day evaporates the contained essential oil. "Rosen Tagescreme", the classic with a new recipe, by Dr. med. Hauschka, about 19 euros. "Intensive Nourishing Night Care with Flower Extract" contains rose water, from Aok, about 7 Euro. Refreshing Body Lotion? Lait Corps Fraîcheur? with excerpts from three varieties of roses, from Lancôme, about 20 euros. "Rose petal milk bath" by Just Pure, about 39 euros. Rich body care "Rose Lait Fondant" by Roger & Gallet, about 15 Euro.

Mallow rescues dry skin

It was already in ancient times as a medicinal plant. In the early Middle Ages Charlemagne even encouraged the increased cultivation of mallow in monastery gardens. Their secret: flowers and leaves contain a high proportion of mucilage, which consist of sugar molecules and like a protective film on dry, inflamed areas of the skin and also to relieve eczema; Antioxidants stimulate cell protection, tannins prevent inflammation. Baby care, which is also good for adults and recommended for eczema: "White mallow face cream" from Weleda, about 10 euros. Strong moisturizer: Day care "Phyto-Balance Fluid Equalize Mallow Hyaluron" by i + m Naturkosmetik, approx. 17 Euro. Pore-refining facial fluid: "Hydra Life Close-up" by Dior, ca. 71 Euro. "Cream Oil Shower Wild Mallow" from Alverde, about 2 euros. "Mallow Volume Shampoo" by Rausch, about 11 euros.

Lavender makes wounds heal faster

Relaxing and stress-relieving, the essential oil, a few drops dripped on the pillow to promote sleep. At the beginning of 1900, the chemist René Gattefossé accidentally discovered the nurturing talent of the lavender blossom. He burned his hand while working in the lab. He immediately put it in a glass of pure lavender oil and then watched the skin recover faster than expected without any problems. Wound healing, blood circulation, an antibacterial effect and its aromatic fragrance, which unfolds its beneficial effects in bath or body care: Lavender extracts are real all-rounders. Day Care "Organic Lavender" by Dr. med. Scheller, about 13 euros. Body care "Shampure Body Lotion" with lavender oil and camomile from Aveda, about 29 euros. "Liquid Soap Lavender" by Dr. med. Bronner? S, about 9 euros. Hair balm for dry tips "Lavender Smooth Balm" by Less is More, about 25 euros.

Hamamelis refines the pores

In the middle of winter the witch hazel flowers, bright orange or yellow. But her inner values ​​are also impressive: she is rich in tannins, which have an astringent, pore-refining effect on the skin.Therefore, Hamamelis is particularly suitable as an ingredient for tonic in combination skin or impurities; their essential oil prevents inflammation. "LL Regeneration Cleansing Milk" by Annemarie Börlind, approx. 22 Euro. "Brightening Water" face water from L? Occitane, about 20 euros. "Night Cream Organic Witch Hazel" from Logona, about 16 euros. Acts locally against pimples: "Anti-Blemish Clinical Clearing Gel Clinique" from Clinique, about 19 euros.

St. John's wort works against scars and eczema

It is one of the darlings of natural cosmetics entrepreneur Susanne Kaufmann: "It relieves inflammation, helps to heal scars, works against back pain: his healing powers are old folk wisdom." In the vicinity of Bregenz, their home, many people make their own healing oil. "You put St. John's wort in sunflower oil - that gets a wonderfully reddish tint." Extracts of the herb protect dry skin from moisture loss and make it easier to heal eczema. "Body lotion" with St. John's wort and chamomile by Susanne Kaufmann, approx. 51 Euro. "Johannis Creme Nachtpflege" with St. John's wort oil from Sans Soucis, approx. 24 Euro. For dry skin: "Skin Calm Lotion" from Eubos, about 16 euros.

Daisy brightens pigment spots

The delicate little flower, also called Tausendschön, is full of endurance and resilience: it grows from the first spring days until the autumn, in rain and at night, the little white flower wreath closes. In folk medicine her extract has long been known as a means of blood purification and stimulation of metabolism, and also the skin does the daisy good by it? Among other things - regulates the production of melanin and thus reduces the formation of new pigmentation spots. "Nectar Bright Smoothing Care" should brighten up, from Melvita, about 33 euros. "Baborganic Pure Age Preventing Cream" from Babor, approx. 56 Euro. Brightening facial scrub "Pure White Soft Creamy Exfoliator" from Eisenberg (about Douglas), about 60 Euro. "Pura Verde Firming Gel" as invigorating anti-aging care with extracts of daisies and mallow, of dew drops, about 28 euros.

Eyebright helps with reddened eyelids

The Euphrasia, whose roots dock with other plants to recharge their water and nutrients, is used primarily for eye care. And it lives up to its name: it is designed to relieve irritation of this sensitive area and swelling, to help against barley grains, and compresses with eyebright tea are known as a home remedy for conjunctivitis. Gentle make-up removal: "Eye Make-up Removal Lotion Jasmine" with Euphrasia and Chamomile, by Korres, approx. 20 Euro. "Lip and Eye Cream" by The Organic Pharmacy, about 30 Euro. Facial cleansing for sensitive skin: "Sensitive Facial Cleanser" with eyebright, from Burt? S Bees, about 13 euros.

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