City stroll in Copenhagen
Lone Scherfig
Lone Scherfig sits like a mermaid on the beachas if it were the landmark of the city itself. In the background is the seaside resort of Charlottenlund in the Sound. "That's the best thing about Copenhagen," says the 43-year-old, plucking the bikini from the Prada purse. "The city has become beautiful since the water is as clear as it was in ancient times."
We met Lone Scherfig in the "Amokka", a big café in the district of Østerbro, where many people are going. We did not know her, just her movie. "Italian for Beginners" won the 2001 Silver Bear at the Berlinale. What does a woman whose film is to be seen in more than 35 countries around the world, in her city, in Copenhagen, love? So swim, the proximity to the sea. The Royal Theater, where her mother was a teacher at the ballet school and where Lone dreamed many afternoons in the auditorium as a child. Or browse through junk dealers.
At the Bellevue beach.
In the Nørrebro student quarter, we stroll from shop window to shop window, from French country furniture to an entroller with a mishmash of treasures, past the lamp shop to "modern DK". Here are slim teak sofas, benches and simple sideboards. Poul Henningsen lamps, Arne Jacobsen chairs, the light elegance of the 50s and 70s.
When Lone went to school and later when she was studying, Denmark was a country trying to make up for social differences. A thick sweater, a fisherman's shirt over it, a scarf around his neck, and wooden shoes on his feet: that was enough in better circles to be considered dressed. "Fashion has become much more important in recent years," says Lone. This reflects the social development: here, too, the gap between rich and poor is growing. People want to show who they are. And young designers are conquering international catwalks.
Landmark: The Little Mermaid.
Just outside the city are the studios of Zentropa, the company that produced Lones movie "Italian for Beginners". Lone Scherfig is one of those young directors who follow the "purity vow" of the group "Dogma 95": they shoot with the handheld camera, without headlights, without added music, the actors shape the situation and not the illusion machines. "If it rains on the day of shooting, then it's just raining in the movie," is a dogma rule. A large, open equipment hall is the heart of Zentropa. It's Friday, time for the weekly team meeting. The filmmakers sit and squat and lean and slouch on the scuffed furniture.
guard Parade
We go to Tivoli with her daughter Feline and her friend. The fun in this park ranges from roller coasters to gourmet restaurant fare, from gambling halls to ballet, and it also leaves room for a stroll under old trees. In the "Chinese peacock theater" the curtain is opening. Specifically, because the huge mechanical peacock lowers the tail feathers, which otherwise block the view of the stage. A marvel of technology, from 1874. Twice a day Pierrot appears here. Crowds of people gathered in front of the small baroque stage.
To finish, we drive once more direction Charlottenlund. Buy a box of Japanese takeaway delicacies at Strandvej at Sticks'n'Sushi, "the best in Northern Europe", Lone swears, and then off to a picnic on the beach. With nice people meeting for alfresco dining, with tablecloth, candles, fine glasses and delicious food - that too is typically Danish.
Travel Info Copenhagen
Copenhagen beach
hotels Copenhagen beach: right on the harbor, but only a few minutes walk from the city center. The rooms are small but cozy, large breakfast buffet with Danish specialties like liver pate and puff pastry rolls. DZ / F from 180 Euro (Havnegade 37, Tel. 33489900, www.copenhagenstrand.dk). Kong Arthur: Family hotel in the middle of the city - yet quiet at one of the lakes. DZ / F from 204 Euro (Tel. 33111212, Fax 33326130, www.kongarthur.dk). Ibsen's Hotel: a little less expensive, but less pleasant from the inside, just around the corner. DZ / F from 164 Euro (Vendersgade 23, Tel. 33131913, Fax 33131916, www.ibsenshotel.dk). Radisson SAS Royal Hotel: a living monument to the designer Arne Jacobsen. The high-rise built in 1960 was completely furnished according to his designs. Now it is freshly renovated, as a tribute to the modern age. And the service is right. DZ / F at the weekend from 213 euros (Hammerichsgade 1, Tel 33426000, Fax 33426100, www.radissonsas.com). Guldsmeden: new family hotel with four-poster beds, friendly service and eco-breakfast.DZ / F from 146 Euro (Vesterbrogade 66, Vesterbro, Tel. 33221500, Fax 33221555, www.hotelguldsmeden.dk). Hotel Bethel Sømandshjem: You do not have to be a sailor anymore to find a bed here. Simple, but okay. The location right on the harbor Nyhavn is great for anyone who wants to explore the city on foot and like to go out in the evening. DZ / F from 106 Euro (Nyhavn 22, Tel. 33130370, Fax 33158570). www.hotel-bethel.dk.
Camping Charlottenlund Fort: Lone Scherfig's tip for those who find hotels in Copenhagen too expensive. The place is right on the Øresund, and yet you are fast by bus in the city center. Adults pay nine euros per day in the tent, motorhomes and cars cost three euros extra. Attention: Bring your tent, you can not rent (Strandvejen 144B, Charlottenlund, Tel. 38623688, Fax 39610816, www.campingcopenhagen.dk).
restaurants
Smørrebrøder
Ida Davidsen has 177 Smørrebrøder on the map (Store Kongensgade 70, tel. 33913655). Sult is translated as hunger and is a quote: The name of this chic, cool restaurant in the movie house refers to a theatrical strip, which has cult status in Denmark. Six-course menu for 57 euros, main course, oven-baked flounder with "Red bull blood" salad, grilled zucchini, cucumber foam and Steinbeißerrogen, 25 euros (Vognmagergade 8 b, tel 33743417). Café Sommersko: perfect for a shopping break (Kronprinsensgade 6, Tel. 33148189). Luftkastellet: Sun on the face, sand between the toes, a cold beer, nice company and affordable prices: The quay in front of the old warehouse has become a super-dependency for balmy summer evenings. Party often on Fridays and Saturdays (Strandgade 100 B in Christianshavn, www.luftkastellet.dk). Around the St. Hans Torv There are many restaurants and pubs in Nørrebro. The Pussy Galore for example. Club sandwich with chicken 9 euros, lamb steak with asparagus 17 euros. Vega: the star in the night sky. This is where the best Danish DJs perform. If you do not feel like dancing, you can sip mojito one floor up in the Vega Lounge (Enghavevej 40, tel. 33257011).
Shopping
Kronprinsengade
The clothes get a little bit different when Danish fashion designers design them - a little bolder, more colorful, cooler or plain. If you like an individual outfit, you should shop in the small side streets in the city center, especially on the Kronprinsensgade - but also in the big department store Illum. A few of the hottest Danish labels at the moment: Munthe plus Simonsen, Baum und Pferdgarten, Punk Royal, Bruuns Bazaar, Klaus Samsøe, Sand and (for many, many years): Nørgaard paa Strøget, where Fashion Addicts not only own the in-house collection but also the gems from the workshops of Danish and international designers (Frederiksberggade 11 and Amagertorv 13, Mads Nørgaard Amagertorv 15, all in the center). Summerbird Chocolaterie makes Europe's tastiest marzipan and turns it into chocolates and chocolate kisses (Kronprinsensgade 11, Tel. 33938040). In the small factory of Sømod's Bolcher you can watch how candies are made. 70 colorful varieties (Nørregade 36, store 24). A royal shopping pleasure is offered by the shops on the AmagertorvHere you will find the famous porcelain by Royal Copenhagen, glass and crystal by Holmegaard, silver by Georg Jensen. Illum's Bolighus next door has the most beautiful pieces for the interior: furniture, lamps, kitchenware and fancy gifts. in the Bodum-Hus There is not only the famous coffee maker, but on four floors colorful household and office objects (Østergade 10). Design, for example, at Paustian, a unique store on the North Harbor, designed by architect Jørn Utzon and filled with the masterpieces of Danish and international designers (Kalkbrænderiløbskaj, Østerbro). modern.dk: Second hand market for the classics of Danish interior design (Ravnsborggade 6, Nørrebro). Fisk: Furniture, handicrafts, trendy clothes - much of it secondhand, some of the new used. In addition a café and a corner with fair trade goods. A clever idea of Folkekirkens Nødhjælp, the Danish counterpart to "Bread for the World" (Krystalgade). Antique shops and junk dealers in Ravnsborggade in Nørrebro.
Do not miss
VandkulturhusetIdeal for rainy days. Admission 6 euros, for children from 2 to 14 years 4 euros (Tietgensgade 65). Louisiana: about 35 kilometers north of Copenhagen, one of the most beautiful museums in the world for modern art. You should bring enough time to enjoy the garden high above the Øresund. Special exhibition "Master Portraits" with pictures of the star photographer Arnold Newman, e.g. by Woody Allen, Piet Mondrian, Andy Warhol, Igor Stravinsky (27 May to 31 August). Daily. 10am to 5pm, Wed. to 10pm (Gamle Strandvej 13, from Humlebæk train station about 15 minutes on foot or by bus 388. Tel. 49190719, www.louisiana.dk). Kayak tours: If you feel like experiencing the city from the water, then Kajak-Ole is the place for you. Guided tours for beginners and advanced. From 22 euros per person (tel.32 54 14 40, www.kajakole.dk). Jazz Festival: From the 4th to the 13th of July the whole city swings. Over 600 concerts in bars, concert halls and open-air stages. Every day music parade (www.jazzfestival.dk).
Traveling in the city If you arrive by car, makes a big mistake: parking (and parking) costs a fortune, free parking is almost nothing. Easier to move with buses and trains. With the Copenhagen Card (in all tourist information) you can use all public transport, has access to 70 museums and other perks (22 euros for 24 hours, 53 euros for 72 hours, children 12 euros / 30 euros). By the way: Since October 2002, Copenhagen has a metro with hypermodern designed trains and stations.
phone Area code for Denmark 0045, then the eight-digit number without area code.
info Danish Tourist Office, Glockengießerwall 2, 20095 Hamburg, Telephone 040/320210, Fax 32021111, www.visitdenmark. com.
In Copenhagen: Danmarks Turistråd Vesterbrogade 6 d, tel. 33111415, fax 33931416.
Lone Scherfig's favorite addresses
Tivoli
Tivoli: Amusement park since 1843. Open from mid-April to the end of September at least from 11am to 11pm, from mid-November to Christmas from 11am to 10pm (Vesterbrogade 3, tel. 33151001, www.tivoli.dk). Le sommelier: Gourmet restaurant in the center - excellent French cuisine and four professional sommeliers serving delicious wines, menu 43 Euro (Bredgade 63-65, Copenhagen K, tel. 33114515). Tivolihallen Frogster Restaurant: traditional Danish lunch. Sandwiches from 5,50 Euro (Vester Voldgade 91, Tel. 33110160). Sticks'n'Sushi: The Danes also find that around 40 euros is quite expensive for ten pieces of sushi with miso soup and ice cream made from green tea - and they still come here because their freshness and quality are convincing. In the restaurant in the Nansensgade 59 you should book (phone 33111407), take-aways in Nansensgade 47, Øster Farimagsgade 16 b (both in the center) and Strandvejen 195 in Hellerup. Amokka: Café and coffee shop with funny design and weird ideas. So is the spoon to the Café Choco Latte (around 5 euros) covered in chocolate. If you are looking for a souvenir: Here's Body-Paint made of pure chocolate. Paint, lick. Of course it also tastes good on white bread (Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 36? 40, Østerbro, Tel. 33253535). Rud. Rasmussen Snedkerier: Exhibition rooms of the traditional carpentry workshop (Nørrebrogade 45, Nørrebro, tel. 35396233). Thorvaldsen's MuseumDedicated to the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen and full of sculptures that look as if they all belonged to antiquity (Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads 2, Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 5pm).
